New headache
I assume a gasket will fix the oil leak, but the rear brake, well the piston is mounted upside down, with the bleed facing down, I don't know that it makes any difference but I don't know how the air is supposed to get out that way.
Thoughts?
Empty the master cylinder first; let the bubbles settle up out of the fluid in the syringe; use undersize clear tubing between syringe and nipple, 6" length is plenty; undersize so that it is a very very very tight fit on the nipple so no air leak [i have to force it on with needle nose pliers]; have master cyl lid loosely on master cyl else fluid will shoot 10' across the room; loosen the nipple, force fluid thru.
First time may not work so well; but after you get the hang of it this is the only way to bleed brakes IMO.
You have to take it off, turn it the right way up, and slide something between the pads in lieu of the rotor.
Then you can bleed as normal.
I have never needed to use any of the backfill methods.
I know many struggle with brake bleeding, and, to me, most methods are born out of that dynamic.
To push the fluid front the back to the front also means you are pushing all the gunk towards the m/cyl, and those oh so important little holes that live there, and that block all too easily.
Do you actually mean that your cam cover is leaking???????
The lower right side is the gearcase, often referred to as the cam chest as it contains the cams. The oil pump is on the front , just below the gearcase cover, also referred to as the cam cover.
So, exactly where is this oil pouring out? Can you post a pic? Oil would not usually "pour" out unless there is a hole.
You need to have both a factory service manual 99484-78 and a factory parts catalog 99451-78B in your hands before opening up any of these engine areas; and so that you can understand things better.
A great deal of the issue is that I/we have no idea as to what you are talking about, as you have no idea what you are talking about.
The factory manual is exactly what you need, and a parts book for any bike you personally own is always very useful.
There are quite a few possibilities for leaks around that area.
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I assume a gasket will fix the oil leak, but the rear brake, well the piston is mounted upside down, with the bleed facing down, I don't know that it makes any difference but I don't know how the air is supposed to get out that way.
Thoughts?
get you a extra set of fly weights and put them in ur tool bag. If you ride aggressive?? You'll NEED EM!! And if you want I can show you how to dynamic time the ignition.also there's static timing. And the center bolt that holds everything together you must make sure it's not runnin eccetric!! If not it will never be exactly right. Still run just not like mine use to.Allot of time when they start popping,and. It's hell to crank one of the mechanical advance weights Will have slung a spring off one side,,,,usually rear cyl spring, then sometimes pooting and poppin one lunging check mechanical advance.however if you do get it mechanically sound it will reward you with a beautiful harmony.also about oil, thosehad automatic chain oiler's,
some ******** at the dealer would try to bypass!! Findu a diagram.if it's ur oiler line blocked off it will slung oil from every office.
if you done want the auto oiler.U must put a filter on the line NOT BLOCK!! Why???
it's the crank case VENT IT is supposed to have a lol spray of oil. I hope I have shed some light for ya. I'm late husband.( putting tire) on my heritage and let lift down on my screen!! Just don't give up!! There's a lot of ******** out there thatwill tell you all kinds of BULLSHIT LIKE 50 at oil for tranny!!!😳😳
PUT EOTHER 80W90 ER 85/140.PLUS A LIL
STP blue bottle. Shift like butter.
Holler if I need clutch help.
Ron harrison


