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Old Sep 28, 2010 | 06:52 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by piniongear
You do not have to remove the engine.
You do however have to remove the rear rocker box before you can remove the rear head.
Install just the reverse.
Head goes on followed by the rocker box.

The front head and rocker box can be removed and reinstalled as a unit.

I agree the oil is coming from worn valve guides.
pg
Do you even own an ironhead?
 
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Old Sep 29, 2010 | 07:24 AM
  #22  
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PinionGear : thank you for the info about the Oil and H/D's terminology that you have found out in your experiences and i'm not doubting that you are correct, but in the manual that i have now, that is an original 74 sportster manual, it does state to use the weights i originally posted, there is now * no this is a H/D reference number nothing like that, it states that for proper maintenence H/D recommends the following Weight depending on where you live. and in my manual at least it has the Wt behind each number. and since these things seem to have huge gap tolerances i can see why they would advise the use of that heavy of an oil/lube since it basically turns into water after it gets hot anyway.

IronMick : Thank you for that info, after i get the bike back, that is definetly something i will be adding to the maint. routine that i'm going to right up for myself to take better care of this old bike.

Hog4U : i'm in Soutwestern Ohio about 50 miles north of Cincinnati.

Thanks again for all the help all, and i'll update once again, after i get to take the 1st glorious ride after it's done. heres hoping.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #23  
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Default Finally done

!st Merry Christmas to all, it's been a while since i've updated, but it's been a while since i've had my bike. I finally got my sporty back from the shop on 12-6-10 and it runs great, i took it on it's maiden voyage the next day after trailering it home (it was snowing) went about 10 miles, and it ran excellent. (it was 25 degress on it's maiden voyage, and yes i let it warm up and idle for about 30 minutes before taking off on it, so it would be nice and warm).

for those who would like to know, it had to get a complete rebuild. so now it's a 2 maybe 3 kick bike when it's above 40 degress, and about a 6 kick bike at 25 degress in a garage lol.

The only left to do is get it painted and i'll be set for spring (i'll post before and after pics when it gets back from paint hopefully before spring). thank you all whole posted and helped me out on this.

Thanks again, and have a great Holiday Season all
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 04:34 PM
  #24  
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Hey Scotty, Welcome! back. Cool that the bike is good to go. A couple suggestions ...

First do not let the bike sit and idle to warm up. At idle the oil circulation is not sufficient. It is preferable to start it, let it run for about a minute or so, then ride off. Ride easy until it has warmed up.

When it is close to 0`C [32`F] i turn on a space heater in the workshop for some time [? 20 min, half hour, longer?] depending on whatever. Then i start etc as above.

Coldest for me so far is -7`C.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2010 | 11:45 PM
  #25  
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I need to agree with IronMick with engine warm up, idle engine max 1-2 min then easy ride...
I have ride in -4şC but in spring time it's little bit different... there isn't ice or snow on roads.
Here temperatures in "riding season" are between 10-30 şC or 50-90şF so I have used 20W-50 motor oil in my ironheads.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #26  
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scooty i am curious what weight of oil you went with?----its your bike you can do what you want but i would seriously look into what weight of oil to use again.the weights are not the same.you dont have to beleive me but just look into it again.if theres ANY doubt what so ever you should look into it.you put to much time and money into it not to.----i personally am running 20w50 in mine at the moment.i will change to 60w MOTOR OIL when it warms up.-----they keep 60w at the hd dealership and indies for the antiques.---you really dont want to grab some 100w gear oil and put in there.
also that rear head is much easier to take off/install if you rotate the engine to bring that cylinder down.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 11:57 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by straydog13
i personally am running 20w50 in mine at the moment.i will change to 60w MOTOR OIL when it warms up.-----they keep 60w at the hd dealership and indies for the antiques.
What is reason to use 60W oil ? over 100şF temperatures ? oil leaks ? you need oil that has more zinc ?
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 06:32 AM
  #28  
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I have heard that 60W oil is useful only in very hot climates. Generally speaking 50W is the best choice; and 20W50 in winter.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 07:18 PM
  #29  
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i am using castrol 20w50 now.i use harley davidson 60w in the summer.i am in texas.for months at a time its 95 to 105F.when i first start the bike up the oil temp is 100F. thats why i use the 60 weight.---i think i will add an oil cooler next year as well.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 11:56 PM
  #30  
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I was living 2 years in Rio Grande Valley... I just used 20W-50 motor oil in my ironhead without problems... in august there were some days 120şF ...Oil temp can be over 220şF and it still do the job as long as it doesn't boil :-P Before that you burn your side on oil tank so that you can't ride :-P
 

Last edited by sepixlh; Dec 22, 2010 at 12:00 AM.
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