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possible Generator noise?

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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #1  
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Default possible Generator noise?

This is a 74 sporty XL series, Kick start only

While riding my bike, I constantly hear a loud noise, it sounds like if you put two pieces of flat steel together and rub them back and forth, trying to pinpoint the noise is frustrating because I hear it everywhere around the engine, and it doesn’t seem louder in any given area. This noise gets louder as the RPM’s go up, but stays steady, it does not get quieter as you give it gas, and does not get louder when you let off, in fact it’s the opposite, it gets more profound as you hit the higher RPM’s and quieter the lower they are. The bike runs very strong, nice and steady, long trips down the road or just a quick jaunt through town.

I’m hoping this is generator bearings, brushes or rust inside the generator (it sat for a few years after the previous owner wiped out on it cause he forgot it was right hand shift.

I have done a lot of work to the bike, repairing and replacing what needed to be done, all while hoping something would cut the noise. Here is what I’ve done so far.

Replaced the clutches and plates, inner and outer plates, new stud sleeve’s, new clutch basket bearing, new nylon rider for the primary chain and new primary cover.

Replaced all the cam bearings and shims, new tappet guides and push rods, (the lifters and rollers where fine with no play, and the stock cams were well within factory specs still.)

I have not removed the jugs, or cracked the case, I’m hoping to avoid that. According to the title, back in 95 this bike only had 7k miles on it, and the guy I bought it from said he hardly ever rode it, which I tend to believe since he laid it down, and it had a ton of dust on it when I went to look at it the 1st time. So I’m guessing it might have 10k miles on it, if it’s lucky, unfortunately the original gauges were no longer with the bike, so I can’t be for certain.

I know this may sound like a worn cylinder, but both plugs are clean as a whistle even after taking them out after about a 200 mile ride, not burnt, not fouled. So I am leaning toward it not being a jug/cylinder issue, or broken rings.
 

Last edited by ScootyMcGee; Jun 22, 2010 at 02:56 PM. Reason: forgot to add year and model, this is a 74 sporty XL Series Kick start only
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Old Jun 22, 2010 | 09:30 PM
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piniongear
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If you suspect it is the generator making noise I suggest you simply remove the generator.
Make yourself a plate out of plastic or wood to block the hole.....



and then run the bike down the road.
Still hear the noise?

When you reinstall the generator, be sure to 'flash the fields' on the system BEFORE you start the engine.


pg
 
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Old Jun 23, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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While you were in the timing case, did the pinion gear and oil pump drive worm gear on the pinion shaft fit loose? If the pinion gear/oil pump drive is loose enough to walk across the shaft and into the pinion bushing it will make an ungodly rattling sound...Much like what you describe...You'll have to pull it apart to find out!
 
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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Any chance the primary chain is adjusted too tight since you replaced the teflon wear block?
 
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Old Jun 24, 2010 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by carlgrover
Any chance the primary chain is adjusted too tight since you replaced the teflon wear block?
Good point. Ensuring correct chain adjustment, both chains!, is the first step in identifying engine noise issues.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 01:52 PM
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Sorry for the late reply, got busy and haven't had much time to do anything with it.

Both chains are fine, the primary moves about 1/2 up and down (thats as close to the 9/16 as i could get). the drive chain, is roughly the same.

the Pinion gear is tight (all new bushings and bearings in it) so i am pretty sure the worm gear would be as well.

I did take the generator off and ran the bike, the noise was still there, while idleing, i uncovered the hole where the generator goes, and the pinion gear was slinging oil like it was no bodies business, so i know it's getting plenty of oil.

In the cam cover where the bushings are pressed in, i did notice there were no holes in any of them for oil to get in and lubricate the cover side cam shafts, is this an issue, should i take the cover back off, and drill holes through them from the top to allow at least some oil to get in there? I also used a stethescope probe everywhere i could stick on on the engine with it running, everything sounded like what would be engine noise, the rockers were a touch noisy but front and back were equal in noise level, when i touched anywhere on the cam cover, it bought popped my eardrums from how loud it is.

I did switch from 20w-50 to a straight 50w (i was told 60w but could not find any local to me) that did help quite the noise down, but since i changed the oil i have discovered a new issue. (of course it's an ironhead that hates me lol)

The new issue is both Exhaust pipes have raw unburnt oil coating them on the inside of the pipe, my plugs are not fouled out at all, in fact they look perfect, i nice slightly grey look to them. I believe this is from bad valve guides/bushing. (i have checked the pushrod adjustment and it is correct) The big question i have is this (i really don't want to remove the engine from the bike if i don't have to) are the heads able to be taken off with the engine still in the bike? i've been told yes by a few people and told now by about the same amount of people.

I have no doubt that i would be able to get the front one off, but the rear one only has about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch before it hits the backbone of the bike.

Thanks again for your help on this everyone
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ScootyMcGee
Sorry for the late reply, got busy and haven't had much time to do anything with it.

Both chains are fine, the primary moves about 1/2 up and down (thats as close to the 9/16 as i could get). the drive chain, is roughly the same.

the Pinion gear is tight (all new bushings and bearings in it) so i am pretty sure the worm gear would be as well.

I did take the generator off and ran the bike, the noise was still there, while idleing, i uncovered the hole where the generator goes, and the pinion gear was slinging oil like it was no bodies business, so i know it's getting plenty of oil.

In the cam cover where the bushings are pressed in, i did notice there were no holes in any of them for oil to get in and lubricate the cover side cam shafts, is this an issue, should i take the cover back off, and drill holes through them from the top to allow at least some oil to get in there? I also used a stethescope probe everywhere i could stick on on the engine with it running, everything sounded like what would be engine noise, the rockers were a touch noisy but front and back were equal in noise level, when i touched anywhere on the cam cover, it bought popped my eardrums from how loud it is.

I did switch from 20w-50 to a straight 50w (i was told 60w but could not find any local to me) that did help quite the noise down, but since i changed the oil i have discovered a new issue. (of course it's an ironhead that hates me lol)

The new issue is both Exhaust pipes have raw unburnt oil coating them on the inside of the pipe, my plugs are not fouled out at all, in fact they look perfect, i nice slightly grey look to them. I believe this is from bad valve guides/bushing. (i have checked the pushrod adjustment and it is correct) The big question i have is this (i really don't want to remove the engine from the bike if i don't have to) are the heads able to be taken off with the engine still in the bike? i've been told yes by a few people and told now by about the same amount of people.

I have no doubt that i would be able to get the front one off, but the rear one only has about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch before it hits the backbone of the bike.

Thanks again for your help on this everyone
You do not have to remove the engine.
You do however have to remove the rear rocker box before you can remove the rear head.
Install just the reverse.
Head goes on followed by the rocker box.

The front head and rocker box can be removed and reinstalled as a unit.

I agree the oil is coming from worn valve guides.
pg
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 03:45 PM
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Both heads will come off with the engine in the frame. If you only have 1/2"-3/4" clearance there is no way you'll be able to get the rocker box to clear the valves. Leave them bolted together when you take them off.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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i have heard that some rocker box's will come off without removing the head and others that just wont quite make it, the 3 that i have owned have all came out without removing the head
 
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Old Jul 12, 2010 | 04:45 PM
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For the rear, the cylinder head and the rocker cover must come off as an assembly. For the front they can come off either individually or as an assembly.

I heard from one member on another forum a few years ago who has been able to remove the rear rocker cover separately; no one else.

<<
when i touched anywhere on the cam cover, it bought popped my eardrums from how loud it is
>>

This is not good. Each cam should sound like metal parts rotating, not much different from the rockers. The gen, OTOH, is the noisiest place on the engine to listen with a mechanics stethoscope.

There are oil passages in the cover and oil slots in the bushings. But i do not recall them, and this is the best pic i have, and it is not good enough i think. Maybe if you post a good pic of what you have it will jog some memory.

 
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