OK, It's been a busy week here in the Smokies. Parts to re-build the clutch and tranny came in. Engine has been re-built.
A mounting tab broke off the frame, so, I have decided to tear her all the way down, sandblaster and go ahead and do the complete deal.
Got a horseshoe oil tank, (tank and batt mount for the price of one).Both on the bike were shot. Also got a deal on some iso-peg forward controls, and some other chrome goodies. I know Chrome don't get you home, but it is nice.
I think I am going with a black frame and a dark red, that looks black at night, and shows red in the sun, Black base, with burgundy candy top, maybe some metallic.
Going with a lower mounted headlight. Mini Gauges, 12" baby apes.
Running a 21" front, !6" rear, 4" over tubes, so, It will be a bobber with shocks, which is what an old fart like me needs.
Headed for Gatlinburg this weekend (gotta keep mama happy). Next few weeks are going to be intense. Looking at mid to end of May to finish, earlier I hope, Maybe in time for Maggie Valley.
Grampy


Ride hard, Ride Free, Beer now cheaper than gas, Drink, don't Drive

 

Mertle is now over-budget. Rebuilt tranny, and re-shimming cams.(P-cams) New sprockets and brakes. New Kicker gears, complete re-build except for top-end and crank which was done a year ago. All tins and frame taken down to metal. Forward Controls, Baby Apes, 21 " front all chrome front, 16" rear, 4" over tubes front . Internal wiring in handlebars, S&S Super E, much more, this bike will be bad to the bone. Pics to come.
Bought for 2K, 1.5 K in parts, and she is not done.

 

Been a while here, resurrection is almost done. What started out as a fix the clutch, has become a complete tear down. Over $700 in seals, gears, sprockets, etc. Another $1200 in stuff I wanted, turning her into a more stock animal, oil tamk,battery with forward controls and comfy handlebars.
Basicly, a 69 XLCH with a 71 upgrade to points gearcase.
So, What I have done is upgraded the whole bike to a 71, with a 69 motor.
And she is still no where near stock, she came with a 21" front, 16" rear.
This is my first Sporty build ( last build was a 76 shovel) I am learning a lot . I am incorporating the two. For instance, putting the petcock on the left (dont wont a leak on the hot side) Anyway, heres pics before and after from a few days ago.

 

Someone has been having fun!

 

Been a while, now waiting for tranny thrust washers, clearances changed after after mainshaft bearing replaced. All new oil seals and bushings, new kicker gears, new sprockets, brake shoes, and some custom upgrades. It has taken longer than I wanted, and cost more too, but, I will be confident I have a solid bike. If you can't do it right, don't do it is my motto. I am getting anxious to kick this bad girl over, and get my face in the wind.

 

Thanks to all here and at XL.
After months of learning about ironheads, and the frustration that goes with re-building one,I am one step away from being finished, and overbudget.
My Indy can now rely on me if he has any questions about early ironheads.
Mertle now only needs a worm gear for the clutch, and fork oil recharge. It has been a long time coming. With all the fabricaction and modifications I have done,due to the inept bastardazation of the bike before I got it, I am proud of what she has become.
Pics and Video next week.
Have a Happy Independence Day

 

...and a Happy Canada Day to you!!

 

Well, everything is done now, except a shifter issue. It is solidly mounted at about 10-15 degrees off of 90, and is hard to upshift.

Mick: I noticed in the video you posted on your favorite ironhead, that you had moved the mounting hole on the shift lever. I have the same controls. What was the purpose of that?

Here is the new Mertle

 

Mine is a 1978, left side shift, right side brake. I moved the brake peg down about 1" or so, just below the bend. This puts it in a better position for my small size 9 foot ...



On the shift side i tried it and not did not work better for me, so i have a bolt and acorn nut in the hole ...



For the lever off the shift shaft i am using a cut-down Evo shift arm. These IMO are the best choice for three reasons: the shape works well for pulling the shift shaft in a circle, the bolt goes thru the slot in the shaft so the arm cannot fall off [as can an IronHead shift arm],and it is fat enough to be cut down and drilled ...



It is important to get this idea that the shift shaft has to be pulled in a circle. This is why the hole i drilled in the Evo shift arm is positioned slightly behind or directly below [not in front of!] the shift shaft - so that it pulls into, not out of the circle.

Here is an IronHead shift arm cut down for comparison. Note that the bolt is too low so that it does not go thru the slot; only friction keeps the arm on the shaft ...

 

On your shifter side, those three set screws do not hold very well.