For the most part they don't have anything we need anymore. Not even oil. However; my local dealer shocked me by finding a part I needed for the original Bendix carb at another dealership in Alabama. Two days and $1.75 later I had it.

 

After 30 hard hours and 2 pick-up loads to re-cycle, shop is clean enough to start work. Still have drill press and a few other tools to install, but 90% there, except for the side room, which is another story, maybe a small paint booth.

 

Here's mine after i cleaned it up last year. 8' X 14' including a 2' workbench. Just enough space to work on one motorcycle in the center. But i did have three in there at one time ...





I have these guys watching over me ...

 

Mine looks like the first pic Olgrampy posted. I assume that was the before shot.

Mick: I like the posters....I've got 'The Bird' hanging in mine.

 

OK, First, the clutch pull was really hard, so, I figured a pinched cable, or clutch springs not properly adjusted. Cable OK, adjust cable, and can't get clutch to release hmmm. The previous owner put new Drag Specialties Clutch in so, I figure, check the clutch. Pop the clutch cover and oil pours out, not good. The clutch hub has noticable play in it, another not good. Also, clutch springs were 1/8 inch short, ANOTHER not good. So, now sitting at $150 for seals,springs, and bearings. NEXT, the kicker somes slips so, while it is apart, kicker rebuild kit $120. I am hoping that I can clean the friction discs up with some CRC Brakcleen. Comments?
I scored an impact wrench today, so, hopefully the hub nut will come off easily, or rather without a frustration sit-down. Does anyone know if the hub nut is a regular or reverse thread?

Ride Hard, Ride Free, and Ride On

 

Gramps.......
The clutch nut is regular right hand thread.
If the impact does not move it just take a 1/2 inch breakover bar with the socket and try that.
If it still will not loosen, then slip a piece of pipe over the bar handle to give you more leverage. That is going to do it for sure.

The nut has a keeper washer on it and a tab bent over a flat on the nut. Bend the tab away from the nut flat.
The nut should be very tightly attached.
pg

 

Lookin good. I wish that I had all of the power receptacles that you have on that workbench. I never seem to have enough.

 

Yup. I keep a ~5' steel pipe in the shop for just this purpose; and another ~1,1/2' for smaller jobs.

 

OK, went into the clutch because the clutch pull was stiff. Adjusting mech was ok, so check the spring tension..Oh boy, The primary was full of engine oil, 3 qts., all of it. OK, I read about the ball check valve. I finally got the clutch cover ( which was glued on) off, and the clutch was full of tranny oil...fun, fun.
Now to lame mechanics. The cluch hub nut was screwed up because someone used a chisel on it. I had to use a mini-grinder to get the socket in shape to get a socket on it. After diassembling the clutch, there was not a single oil seal installed, and there was play in the mainshaft, so lets pull the transmission to replacethe oil seal and bearing there. Fun, fun, fun.
So, I decide to tear down further, since the frame needs welding.
As I go further the wiring is squat, the oil can and battery carrier were solid mounted so I need a new oil bag and the battery carrier broke a tab on the frame, oh, and instead of buying a lockwasher, weld the drive spocket to the shaft.
You gotta love these shade tree mechanics.
So, instead of doing a fixer-upper for the summer, I am doing the complete re-build.
Advice to Idiot Machanics. If you think you are smarter than the engineers who built the bike..Think Again.

Ol Yeller Mertie, will soon be Black Beautie


Ride Hard, Ride Free, and don't pick your Buggers in public

 

This is brutal. Ya, bring that lady back to life. The world will then be a better place.