Hey Guys, been a while since I have been here. Thanks for any help ahead of time.....

Bike: 1970 XLCH w/ dry clutch, stock, some convenience mods. Rebuilt from bottom up, 2300 miles since rebuild.

Situation: 6-15-2001 I went east on a trip from Edgewood, NM to Southern MI/Northern IN for a funeral and to see friends & family. I then went on to WV to see more family. Stuck here for now, and bike is down w/ a clutch problem. Rode 2300 miles in 5 days. Bike did real well, but had to adjust clutch every 500 miles or so. Began to drag after a while when I was stopped. Need to get this fixed and head back west soon.

Problem: Clutch cable came loose from the release mechanism. Tore it apart, saw cable had bent the mechanism and was chaffed by chain. Ordered new clutch release mechanism kit and an aftermarket cable. That cable sucked, stripped adjuster immediately. Looked like original, but was smaller in thickness so original adjuster would not fit. Just slid over new cable. Had original cable redone. Put all back together,adjusted clutch, rode bike a bit, clutch seemed to drag so I readjusted it. Lever pull was hard ( has always been that way). Tried clutch/shifting and cable came off again. Pulled it a part once more and now new release mech was bent. Straightened it out gently, put bike back together, same thing happened again. Repeat performance again, but this time the "t" was pulled off the newly repaired cable. Got frustrated and here I am. Almost no adjustment left on clutch adjuster near kicker.

Suspicion: compound problem as a result of the 1.) clutch plate springs too tight, which may need readjusting, 2.) clutch actuating rods may be compressed slightly (original adjuster seemed to be a bit mushroomed where it connects w/ rod) 3.) aftermarket adjuster not correct in factory specs possibly.

Parts came from a reputable distributor. Have been reluctant to remove primary cover until I can find a cover gasket. Some of these parts may be hard to locate, eg: actuating rods, etc. Plan to go w/ Barnett's cable, kevlar plates, springs, etc. if I have to rebuild it. I have my original HD parts and Service manual + a Clymers manual w/ me. Access to tools. Hope plate springs adjustment can do the trick. Tight on funds.

Any correction to my theory and or mechanical insight would be appreciated. PinonGear you there? You have helped me before about 2 years ago, and I respect your wisdom on these old Sportys.

Steve,ak:renotunes

 

You say you are running a dry clutch. I would start there and see if it is still a dry clutch or if the primary oil has seeped in.

It is unfortunate that a primary gasket is difficult to find. I keep an inventory of frequently used parts and gaskets.

barnett's cables are a good choice, I would be surprised if there is anything wrong with your springs--I run the 8 plate wet/dry with heavy duty springs with good results.

I have had issues with poorly made parts; if your release had bent--it will again.

But, I would go back and check your dry clutch and see if it is dry. It sounds like it has gotten oil in it. I ran a dry clutch for years...as I have said, I run wet/dry now with good results and less maintenance.

 

Scott,

I appreciate the info but can you share as to how you are running a wet/dry clutch? I am just getting back into working on my bikes myself and have been removed from that aspect for several years, but I am having fun.

You are right about locating and keeping the frequent used parts inventory around. Just have not had to do that yet. When I find that gasket, I will get more than one. May have to buy the whole gasket kit for the 900. I plan to purchase a new release along w/ whatever else I need too.

Thanks, renotunes

 

My bike is getting old. As it has aged the clutch has gotten more and more difficult to keep sealed. Oil would penetrate the rivets for the kicker, I've replaced the seal several times on the hub, and oil seeps past the gasket. I took steps to prevent all of this but as it aged the maintenance time was increasing...the clutch would stay 'dry' for less and less time.

Barnett has a wet/dry clutch set that can be run wet or dry. some people leave off the derby cover on the clutch and just run it wide open wet. I still keep it on as if it was a dry clutch but don't bother all the extra efforts I used to take to try and keep it dry. I'm old school and have a hard time grasping that clutch friction mat'l and oil can work together. However, I'm on my second set of plates and I've put lots of miles on the first one and the second is running great too. Less time to worry about getting those friction plates cleaned up and dry again....more time to ride.

Dry friction plates and oil don't work together...the plates start sticking...you adjust...oil in the clutch builds...plates stick more....you adjust...soon you have pushed out the adjustment to the point that the plates are slipping when you are driving but still sticking when you are stopped.

To keep mine dry I used silicone on the rivets (inside and out....replaced it frequently), new oil seal every couple of years, bearings in the shell, sealant on the gasket...even replaced the tranny shaft to try and stop the wobble (it didn't). Oil still got in with time and miles.

 

This is an example that would fit your bike (and mine):

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/620-744

I am using the extra plate set from Barnett listed on this page:

http://www.barnettclutches.com/produ...1970&clutch_cc=

 

I appreciate the links and will follow up-Steve

 

don't spend money until you have opened it up and checked. I'm only offering suggestions. You can clean up and restore the friction plates if there is still life on them. If they are oil saturated bury them in kitty litter for a few of days. It will draw out the oil, then you can clean them up with some thinner, rough them a bit with sandpaper and they are ready for use again.

 

Thanks asgain Scott. I plan to open it up soon and get her back on the road.

Any thoughts on where to get a quality oil seal for the clutch? That may be the hardest to find.

Steve

 

I get as much as I can locally. I have a bearing/gear shop locally that services the local farmers. Also a dealer that is good, and finally, I have also gotten name brands from J&P (but they also have lesser quality products too so, I use them when the previous two can't help). I just replaced the seal in my genny with a seal from J&P (I had an order coming anyway)

 

I don't understand the hard clutch pull on a 1970 unless the springs are not right or something like that. I have a 1970 that I have had since new, it is a"77' incher, I replaced the stock clutch with a Barnett many years ago because of a slight derby gasket leak and very slight clutch slippage. A stock dry clutch on a Sportster is so easy that it feels "broken" if it is hard, something is wrong, that stock clutch ( if it is dry) will hold about 25 HP more than a stock 900 will make, easily.