Waking from a 30 year slumber
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
still sounds like a float and or needle problem, could be dumping fuel into the cylinders makin it hard to roll over be carefull again this can and will destroy the top end quickly!! thats would explain the bog, and you use the clear plug so you dont get a face full of oil it will blow out that hole pretty good
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
no oil wont come out if it isnt running, the strobe light set thru the hole with the clear plug is the right way to set the timing but if you "static " time it correctly with the points you will be good enough for most people, if you use the light you really have to look close, if i remember right there are 2 different timing marks, one for the front cylinder and one for the back, i think you want to use the one for the front,i have static timed all of mine for years and never had a problem at all
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
Interesting. I am gonna bite the bullet and order a Mikuni VM38 carb kit through Sudco, the price is right and it comes with new band clamps and a throttle cable which were on my list anyway (not huge but they add up). After adjusting the tappets, advance timing and swapping the carb I will re-evaluate my starting situation.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
you really need to take care of the problems 1 at a time, you have to fix the fuel problem first after that go on to the timing and the valve adjustment,i have been saying it all along that you have a problem with that carb, if you work on more than 1 thing at a time you may be chasing problems forever! ill bet after the carb swap you will be surprised!
The clear timing plugs can be a problem. Many of them do not fit correctly. If you install it up against the flywheel, or too close, it will smash and then you have a big problem of bits in the crank. Requires removing and completely dismantling the engine to get them out. They can be used, but you must take care. I have two of them which i will never use.
I use a 1" length of 3/8" ID oil line. I smooth one end and insert that end into the timing hole and using a needle nose pliers i cram it as tight as possible against the flywheel. Some oil will escape so i wrap a clear plastic bag over the timing light and wear glasses.
Lots of guys do it this way, including i have been told the mech's at the local HD shop.
I use a 1" length of 3/8" ID oil line. I smooth one end and insert that end into the timing hole and using a needle nose pliers i cram it as tight as possible against the flywheel. Some oil will escape so i wrap a clear plastic bag over the timing light and wear glasses.
Lots of guys do it this way, including i have been told the mech's at the local HD shop.
+1, except that i would check the pushrod adjustment first for the simple reason that it is easy and free; and if it is corrected this will simplify isolating the other problems.
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