Waking from a 30 year slumber
Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 18,575
Likes: 4
From: Norfolk, VA
Congrats on your new scoot, but please reconsider the POR 15! I've never had good luck with it personally.
Recommend that you take the tank to a Radiator Shop in your area. The have the chemicals, ( ones you can't get,) to clean and seal the tank professionally, just like they do with radiators.
Recommend that you take the tank to a Radiator Shop in your area. The have the chemicals, ( ones you can't get,) to clean and seal the tank professionally, just like they do with radiators.
A friend used a product called CREEM to seal a gas tank and it wound up turning back into liquid after a few months and completely clogged his petcock/screen...Luckily he was close to home when the motor shut off!!!!
There have been many posts on these forums over the past several years about these products. For sealing an old fuel tank, two products POR and RedKote [sp?] are very good. They virtually always work if directions are followed. The Kreme [sp?] has a reputation for peeling off.
I have not used any of these myself. I take my used tanks to a radiator shop and they do it using the RedKote product.
I have not used any of these myself. I take my used tanks to a radiator shop and they do it using the RedKote product.
BTW, it is common for there to be air pockets in fuel line. If you are observing this it is not a problem.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
I do have a clear fuel line so I could observe the flow. It stopped flowing when I turned the petcock off. I noticed it when I was walking out of the shop that I left it for tires, which means it was flowing for 4-5 minutes while I was inside (a scary thought). It was really just a quick glance, but it supports the whole engine getting too much gas theory since I had to keep the idle around 1400-1500. EDIT: Its been 3 years since I have ridden so I didn't turn the petcock off when I got off the bike, which is why I noticed it leaving the shop, at which point I turned the petcock off and the carb stopped "drinking" and left the fuel in the line.
I am seriously considering going with a Keihin CV carb. Would I be able to use the stock air cleaner and throttle cable? I would need a new manifold too since the manifold seems rather fixed to my carb. The shop called to give an estimate for tires and chain, didn't mention anything wrong with bike. Hopefully its done tomorrow and I can get back to troubleshooting.
I am seriously considering going with a Keihin CV carb. Would I be able to use the stock air cleaner and throttle cable? I would need a new manifold too since the manifold seems rather fixed to my carb. The shop called to give an estimate for tires and chain, didn't mention anything wrong with bike. Hopefully its done tomorrow and I can get back to troubleshooting.
Last edited by Krazyshark; Oct 27, 2011 at 10:54 AM. Reason: Left stuff out.
Tourer
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: se ohio
you will need a intake, (or a adaptor witch i dont like to use have had bad luck)you can use your cables with a little tweeking, air cleaner will not fit either have to use the later air cleaner or do as i did modify the stock air cleaner assy, you will also need to make a couple carb supports not hard at all i got a branch intake off of ebay, used a mikuni 38-40mm adaptor to hook the carb to the intake, if you are goin to use a stock intake i have read about a press fit adaptor that they say works well, they say you dont even need carb supports!
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
If I get a CV I will also need a new manifold, air cleaner and air filter, which makes it that much more $$$. I am still torn and want to get my stock carb running, but also have my eye on the S&S kit, i like that it has everything I would need including the manifold for $420. Having had dual CV carbs on my old Kawasaki EX500 I can appreciate the feel of them though. Thanks for all the input and viewpoints.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 5
From: San Diego, Ca.
If I get a CV I will also need a new manifold, air cleaner and air filter, which makes it that much more $$$. I am still torn and want to get my stock carb running, but also have my eye on the S&S kit, i like that it has everything I would need including the manifold for $420. Having had dual CV carbs on my old Kawasaki EX500 I can appreciate the feel of them though. Thanks for all the input and viewpoints.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
From: Bellmawr NJ
The gas tank was treated with redkoat by a radiator shop so I am confident it is not the culprit. I rebuilt and cleaned the old carb, initially had trouble with the float needle and it would pee gas. Took carb to indie shop and they identified the problem as a corroded seat which wouldn't allow needle to move smoothly in/out of the bore, removed corrosion and sent me on my way. I will give it another shot with cleaning, the float has been set correctly the whole time. I am also a novice at carb tuning (aka this is my first time).
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 554
Likes: 5
From: San Diego, Ca.
The gas tank was treated with redkoat by a radiator shop so I am confident it is not the culprit. I rebuilt and cleaned the old carb, initially had trouble with the float needle and it would pee gas. Took carb to indie shop and they identified the problem as a corroded seat which wouldn't allow needle to move smoothly in/out of the bore, removed corrosion and sent me on my way. I will give it another shot with cleaning, the float has been set correctly the whole time. I am also a novice at carb tuning (aka this is my first time).