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Waking from a 30 year slumber

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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:16 PM
  #71  
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Would that explain the need to run at a high idle, and maybe the smoke (running really rich?)
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 08:53 PM
  #72  
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would explain both, maybe pull your spark plugs and take a look at them, ill bet they are black with soot, any chance of getting a different needle and seat? are you sure the float hight is right?? what about a small hole in the float maybe? need to get the needle to seat, if it keeps leaking fuel you will be doing a top end soon, i wouldn't run it till you get it right, is the little spring on the needle? maybe you can try to "lap" the needle into the seat,thie would require a very light touch and some laping compound( with the seat removed from the carb)
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:00 PM
  #73  
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i just read back thru the older post, if your float isnt goin all the way to seat the needle then there is another problem,is the float touching anything in the bowl?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:01 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by Krazyshark
... Idle is set high, still need to tinker with the low speed screw and idle settings. ... the bike would smoke a little ... It did shut down waiting in traffic, started after some throttle twisting, after which I set idle to about 1500 and it didn't die anymore. It gave a backfire, pop kind of sound once while sitting in traffic. Throttle response is good, I can twist it hard and it responds. When I parked the bike after the ride it looked like the carb was still "drinking" from the tank but nothing was coming out of the overflow, is this normal?
By your last comment, do you mean that there was a constant flow of fuel from the tank into the carb that did not come out the overflow so it must have gone into the cylinders? How did you observe this?

If so this will wash the oil out of the cylinders and could cause serious problems. Anyway, it means most likely that the float level in the carb is not correct - it is not shuting off; or that there is a bit of crud keeping the needle from seating.

So this needs to be fixed. Best way to do this is with an off-the-bike setup like the stand i illustrated earlier. Yup, you gotta spend some cash on some tools and etc.

Smoking, single backfire, pop are not a big concern. Get the idle speed and pilot screw set first. Idle speed should be set to about 1000 RPM, perhaps a little less [950?], when the engine is fully warmed up. The pilot screw should be set at the same time to give best idle quality.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #75  
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well i just went out and checked my stock keihin carb, needle without the little retainer spring is .600 wich is about what yours looks like if you didn't measure the clip,too bad you wasn't closer i would donate my carb ill never switch back away from the cv, i would get another needle and try it the float-needle and seat are the only thing that stops fuel flow
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:20 PM
  #76  
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sorry for the multiple post! new computer is giving me fits
 

Last edited by shepdog; Oct 26, 2011 at 09:45 PM. Reason: posted more than once
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:21 PM
  #77  
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well i just went out and checked my stock keihin carb, mine is a 3 sided needle,needle without the little retainer spring is .650 wich is about what yours looks like if you didn't measure the clip, i would get another needle and try it the float-needle and seat are the only thing that stops fuel flow
 
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Old Oct 26, 2011 | 09:24 PM
  #78  
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dam new computer keeps resending everything lol anyway the needle itself is .600 and with the little sping loaded "tit" its about .650
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 02:35 AM
  #79  
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The needle does have its spring, and after the first 5 mile ride I took to go get gas it did not flow (or drink) while the bike was turned off. It was after the 12 mile ride when it was parked at the tire place that I noticed fuel was flowing into the carb. The float was set by the mechanic at the indie shop who cleaned out the seat.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 06:05 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Stiggy
Congrats on your new scoot, but please reconsider the POR 15! I've never had good luck with it personally.

Recommend that you take the tank to a Radiator Shop in your area. The have the chemicals, ( ones you can't get,) to clean and seal the tank professionally, just like they do with radiators.
+1 here!! Used a different product to seal a gas tank and the product eventually began to peel off after adding in some AVGAS (Aviation Fuel). It was pain trying to get all of those flakes out of the tank.

A friend used a product called CREEM to seal a gas tank and it wound up turning back into liquid after a few months and completely clogged his petcock/screen...Luckily he was close to home when the motor shut off!!!!
 
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