gotta quick question, my brother and I just rebuilt my bottom end on my 77" we have it all back together and noticed that there isnt much oil in the top end,( rockerboxes, valves) however, when we took the lines off to the top there was oil in the lines, and we even started it to see if it was pumping oil up through those lines and it does. there is very little oil in the valves and rocker area, but the pushrods are bone dry, I know oil is supposed to floe back down the push rod tube, I did notice that he had the push rods tight enough to where you couldnt spin them with your fingers, could that have been the problem or should I look else where? thanks

 

Following is the procedure to adjust the pushrods. Note that it must be done with the engine stone cold. I get it all set up the night before [A/C off, jack prepared, tools ready, etc], then do it first thing in the morning.

To check for oil flow simply take the cap off the oil tank while the engine is running. Oil should plop out of the return fitting at the very top of the tank. It will not! shoot out like a fire hose. Note especially that you must remove the oil filter first, before starting the engine.

If oil is returning to the tank then it should be good.

To check the top end in particular, with the engine running remove or loosen the pipe plug that is at the right side front corner of either of the rockerboxes. Oil should plop out of there. It will not! shoot out like a fire hose. Check both if you wish to be certain.

If you take those plugs out shortly after the engine has been shut down some oil should drip out.

Ironhead Push Rod Adjustment

Do this procedure with the engine stone cold. I usually do it first thing in the morning.

1. Remove the spark plugs. Remove A/C to make room to work.

2. Using a flat blade screwdriver pry the spring keeper off of each push rod; the bottom of the keeper pops out first, then the top. Alternately, use a 3/4" open end wrench to push down on the top of the spring retainer, then pry out the spring keeper with the screwdriver.

3. The lower push rod covers may be stuck tight against the bottom o-rings, but they can be loosened by pinching between thumb and finger [or carefully using a shop rag and a pliers] and twisting or rotating. Lift these up and secure each with a tall-S-shaped piece of 12 or 14 gauge household wire [not cable] [or a long piece of Plumbers solder such as 95/5 hooked over the rocker cover and under the push rod cover.

4. Jack up back end of the bike so that rear wheel is off the ground, shift to 2nd gear, rotate wheel until it clicks, repeat until you get to 4th gear. Now by rotating the rear wheel you are rotating the engine. Almost impossible with the plugs in; very difficult in lower gears.

5. To adjust a particular push rod, its valve must be fully closed [the valve spring is relaxed]. Valve position for a particular cylinder is determined by observing the corresponding push rod of the other cylinder. For example, when the rear cylinder intake valve tappet is raised [valve fully open, spring compressed], the front cylinder intake valve is fully closed, and the front intake push rod can be adjusted.

6. Check [and adjust if necessary] the push rods:

[a] use the rear wheel rotate the engine so that the rear cylinder exhaust push rod tappet is fully raised. The front cylinder push rod is adjusted correctly if it has no vertical or horizontal play, and you can just rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.

[b] to adjust if needed: hold the adjusting screw in place with a wrench; with another wrench loosen the split locknut. Then turn the adjusting screw using fingers only until the pushrod's ball end is seated in the tappet with a "slight amount of play". Then tighten further as follows:

Option 1: Adjust on the tighter end of the range: There should be no vertical or horizontal play, and you should be just able to rotate the push rod between thumb and forefinger with no trace of binding or dragging.

Option 2: Adjust on the looser end of the range: Set the adjusting screw to finger tight so that you cannot turn the push rod between forefinger and thumb. Undo it a tiny bit so that it is just barely loose. Then loosen it 1 "side" for an exhaust or 1/2 "side" for an intake. "Side" refers to one side of the 6-sided adjusting nut.

EDIT: Experience here is that Option 2 is the better and most likely the correct choice.

[c] hold the adjusting screw in place with the one wrench; with the other wrench tighten the locknut.

[d] recheck the adjustment; it is common for the adjustment to go out as you do step [c], in which case [b] and [c] must be redone.

[e] repeat for the other push rods.

7. Use a flat blade screwdriver to push the upper push rod covers up, and seat them into the upper o-ring or cork washer.

8. Install the spring keepers, top end first, by prying them in under the bottom with a flat blade screwdriver.

 

thanks Mick, we do have oil draining back in the oil tank from the return, so im good there. I will check the pipe plug and make sure oil is plopping out. i just dont understand why the push rods are dry..

 

I have never had any significant amount of oil in the pushrod tubes. Pushrods are usually, if not dry, at least have no noticeable oil on them. I never really thought about it.

 

every one i have had apart has had a good bit of oil going to the top end, as far as i am concerned i like alot of oil to flow over the rocker area,, my tubes are always wet when i pull them to set valves, but i do allways run the oversize lines to the rocker boxes,these things dont have hardly any oil pressure they just need to keep the oil moving