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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 11:03 PM
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redhead356
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Default carb troubles

have a 73 ironhead. had been sitting for a number of years.was able to get bike running but was leaking gas from accelarator pump.got a rebuild kit and no more leak. problem is that now it won't run. is kick only,before rebuild would start on 3rd to 5th kick.now when will start engine revs to high idle for bout 3 seconds and the dies,no matter what.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by redhead356
have a 73 ironhead. had been sitting for a number of years.was able to get bike running but was leaking gas from accelarator pump.got a rebuild kit and no more leak. problem is that now it won't run. is kick only,before rebuild would start on 3rd to 5th kick.now when will start engine revs to high idle for bout 3 seconds and the dies,no matter what.
You replaced the soft parts but did you clean out the jets?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 11:30 PM
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didn't. kinda of the "if it isn't broke" type attitude,only thing wrong was the accel leak.just don't get why now won't stay running when ran before?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 11:40 PM
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Problem is when you start changing gaskets and such you could have dis loged a piece of crap that went into the idle jet. I make a habit of runing a torch tip cleaner(not big enough to change the jet size) through the holes to clean the jets any time I got a carb apart but I get what your saying. Most times you can get away without doing this but I will remove every part I can just to clean everything up.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 12:07 AM
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right,i understand. guess can't hurt to clean it all out. seemed to me with what engine was doing makes it seem like it is starvin to get gas? so when does start uses it all up n doesn;t have any more to keep it running? idk as i am not a mechanic in any sense.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 05:54 AM
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High idle is a symptom of an intake leak. This most likely means that the o-rings or rubber bands sealing the manifold to the cylinder heads are not sealing.

These must be extremely well sealed. If they are old they should be replaced. We usually use T-bolt clamps instead of the stock clamps. They must be tight. There must be a support bracket for the air cleaner.

Check also the paper gasket between the carb and the manifold.

Intake And Exhaust Leaks Tests

You cannot get a good tuneup if there are intake leaks or exhaust leaks.

1. Check for Intake Leaks

With the engine idling spray propane gas or WD-40 around the carb/intake/cylinder head joints. Propane is best because it leaves no mess, and is most easily sucked in thru leaks. WD-40 is said to work well because it has very fine spray droplets. Be careful to not allow any of either to get sucked in thru the A/C as this will invalidate the results.

Any change in engine RPM is a leak which must be fixed.

EDIT: Experience is that this procedure will identify larger intake leaks, but it may miss very small leaks that also must be fixed. And that propane is definetly the better choice.

EDIT: You have to do a lot of spraying to detect a small leak. Propane will be really clean. Anything else like WD-40, carb cleaner, etc will make a huge mess.

2. Check for Exhaust Leaks

Pour about 1/2 ounce of oil into each cylinder thru the spark plug holes. Run the engine at idle. You will get lots of smoke for about 5 minutes.

All smoke should come from the ends of the exhaust pipes/mufflers. Any other is a leak which must be fixed.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2012 | 10:19 AM
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thanks for the advice. i am going to check the carb gasket,maybe carb needs to be tighter to motor? try n look for leaks evrywhere.
 
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