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Here are some results with the ceramic coated Jackpot M8 2/1/2 last week on a 124" build on a 2018 CVO Road Glide.
Jamie,
I have the non-ceramic Jackpot head-pipe. My bike is in storage now, so I can't look. But can you tell me if that head-pipe has a 90 degree "T", or does the crossover have a radius?
Jamie,
I have the non-ceramic Jackpot head-pipe. My bike is in storage now, so I can't look. But can you tell me if that head-pipe has a 90 degree "T", or does the crossover have a radius?
The Jackpot M8 2/1/2 has a T style connection and is designed specifically to work with the stock crossover pipe. We tested about a dozen different designs and found this combination optimal in stock & moderately modified M8 engines up to about 130Hp.
I get the wanting to stay with original design but if we're talking about best outflow dynamics, why not avoid the crossover altogether and just go with a true 2 into 1?? Any of you old pro's got some advice here?
I've been scouting for 2-1's for my '17 RKS and love the sound and power improvements. Not a fan of a long pipe as it looks funny at the back end but a short 2-1 with maybe a turnout is floating my boat at the moment. Would love to hear comments.
Hopefully the S&S header works well as it give you a nice clean install without a huge advertisement of the company name on the heat shield as some companies do.
Be interesting to see a decatted pipe vs any other header comparison all other things being the same ie 2-1-2 slip ons a/c cam . Probably not a difference you can feel maybe on a dyno you can see a couple points.
Here is a video on YouTube of a stage 3 build using the stock headpipe with the cat removed. The Dyno chart should tell you all you need to know about a de-catted headpipe.
I had the jackpot headpipe and the mk45 slip ons. With rs468 cam. Good power an
d sound. But ended up with area51 2into1. Awesome sound and power from the get. Actyally have the headpipe and mk45s for sale
Here is a video on YouTube of a stage 3 build using the stock headpipe with the cat removed. The Dyno chart should tell you all you need to know about a de-catted headpipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEek-D2WhzM&t=402s
You're assuming too much. I would say the mufflers are causing the dip, not the head pipe.
Here is my bike with a decatted head pipe with the RS468. It has the stock muffler cans with Fullsac 2" cores. The mufflers do make a difference.
As you can see it made good torque and it made it early without a dip. I'm not saying the stock header decatted is the best pipe to use on a stage III, but from the torque and hp they made with is it doesn't look bad. Some mufflers with a little more back pressure would move the torque curve to the left and should get rid of the dip.
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