Milwaukee Eight (M8) 2017 and up M8 Air and Liquid Cooled discussion
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 03:55 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mjwebb
they have a new part number for the M8 version...I use it and it works great as long as you snap it in place correctly
Exactly. The first time it's kinda tricky and obtuse. Once you wiggle it around you will fell it click into position. Mine works great.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 04:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Peter Quinn
Next service you do yourself.Drain the hot oil out the sump completely,then start the bike and idle it untill the lifters start to clatter.The old oil will be completely gone.Then remove and exchange the filter! Warning,use a cardboard deflector to ensure that the blast of compressed old oil ends up in the catcher.
This is not for sissies but you will be amazed how much old residual crappy oil runs out.
OK Peter, I know we all speak English, but you speak a little different than most on the forum do, so when you say sump are you talking about the crankcase or the oil pan?
 
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Old Nov 5, 2018 | 07:33 PM
  #23  
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Ride it for 2500 miles and change the oil again if it will make you feel better.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 07:55 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by $tonecold
OK Peter, I know we all speak English, but you speak a little different than most on the forum do, so when you say sump are you talking about the crankcase or the oil pan?
Yes Stone,My home language is Irish english. I should have referred to the oil pan.
Draining the filter,cooler and passages takes about 2 minutes at idle.I choose to wait for the clattering lifters to confirm that there is zero residual oil.I use a curved cardboard baffle to direct the splatter. The filter removal and exchange is mess free.
In the old pumpless,oil pan sump engines,sumping occured when the RPM went above spec and the big ends would blow the oil away from their oil scoops.Big trouble!
 
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Old Nov 6, 2018 | 01:19 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 2black1s
Here's how I see your predicament. I'd recommend doing nothing. Here's my rational...

Your new oil has already mixed with whatever amount of old oil was in the filter. Nothing you do can change that at this point short of starting over. And even if you do start over there is always some residual "old" oil left behind that mixes with the new oil (unless you use one of those scavenging systems) so I see this as a moot point. The amount of additional "old" oil that has mixed with your new oil by not changing the filter is not very far from what is generally accepted during a complete oil/filter change. So that covers the oil aspect.

Now for the filter. Unless your engine has some other problem(s) that is generating a more than normal amount of particulate contamination, the chances of your existing filter exhibiting any flow restriction (outside of specification) from accumulated contaminants is practically nil. I'd even go as far as to say that you could probably run the same oil filter through many multiple oil changes without any ill-effects.

Changing the filter along with each oil change is what we are all accustomed to. It's the norm, the paradigm. But is it absolutely necessary? I doubt it.

I'd just ride your bike until the next service interval without giving it another thought.
I kind of thought this too but I’m not a wrench
 
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