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Brandon, I don't think it's a three wire sensor any longer. Since 17 it looks to be a switch. Not trying to correct you, just saying what we've seen and heard.
I thought in the switch there was a resister in parallel with the two wires or something that provides a less than 5 volt and greater than 0 volt reading so the ECM would know it's connected.
If the switch was Open, the line/ECM would read 5 volts (PO522). If shorted, 0 volts (P0523). Normal pressure, say 2 volts, and if low pressure, say 4 volts.
Something like that. Like I said, spit balling.
You and Jake are saying two different things, and I'm on your side and you're telling me I'm wrong... I'm confused! lol
Jake says it is a 0 or a 1 reading (off or on) - no middle-ground, you either have pressure or you don't. You are agreeing with me saying that the current pressure switch DOES know it is high/low/proper pressure, and that it is NOT a 0 or 1 type of sensor?
Last edited by BrandonSmith; Oct 7, 2019 at 02:30 PM.
You and Jake are saying two different things, and I'm on your side and you're telling me I'm wrong... I'm confused! lol
Jake says it is a 0 or a 1 reading (off or on) - no middle-ground, you either have pressure or you don't. You are agreeing with me saying that the current pressure switch DOES know it is high/low/proper pressure, and that it is NOT a 0 or 1 type of sensor?
Sorry for the confusion. I didn't bother to look up the codes and took them as presented here. My mistake. The available codes are:
P0520 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Malfunction P0521 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance P0522 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit Low Voltage P0523 Engine Oil Pressure Sensor/Switch Circuit High Voltage P0524 Engine Oil Pressure Too Low
So like Strych said, Voltage, not pressure. These codes are multi-purpose since they work for a sensor or a switch. For an actual sensor (variable voltage) it can range from 5 volts down to 0 I guess or more likely a range in between. For a switch it's probably going to be one baseline voltage and one other voltage (switch tripped) that mean stuff. Additionally, and programmed into the ECM, there is probably one lowest range (0v) and one highest range (5v) which will trip P0520/521 depending on how it's implemented. When the switch is tripped you probably get P0524. What I don't know is if tripped is the switch closed or open.
Regardless of all that... what "Jake" said is true. It's a simple switch now. What I was trying to explain is how a faulty switch could possibly trip both a high and low code.
I now have 2019 flhxs, it does not have oil pressure readings available, nor can it with the oil pressure "switch" .
71400112 OIL PRESSURE "SWITCH" from Harley's microfiche
For what ever reason,Harley decided they no longer needed the customer to be informed of the oil pressure readings. Hence the idiot light we have now on the touring bikes. But if you think about it, all the bikes without a screen, have been this way for years. I am a curious person by nature and added a analog rocker box mounted gauge for my own edification.
I get 10-15 lbs at hot idle and 30-40 at higher rpms hot. Cold is another story. I can get70 lbs when stone cold. I never push it till it warms up. That's with an s&s pump
I get 10-15 lbs at hot idle and 30-40 at higher rpms hot. Cold is another story. I can get70 lbs when stone cold. I never push it till it warms up. That's with an s&s pump
Logically that makes no sense, since nothing other than the fuel pump is affected by what youre describing. I wonder why your oil light comes on.
I suspect it's a message on can bus thing. I think that the BCM sends the message to the speedo / dash. Something might have caused a bit to be read wrong. Mine did it once but I looked down at a mechanical gauge and it was reading 40 psi.
On my 2017 it was just a simple made in India open/closed switch,,, nothing more. No more advanced than a oil pressure switch you would find on a riding lawn mower sold at Wal-Mart. if they went to a sender unit that read on a 4 to 20 ma scale,,, good on HD.
2017 FLHR, 17K miles
Couple days ago, fire the bike up, cool morning (about 49F), head down the road. About 2 miles out, I realized I forgot my cell phone (damn). Turn around, go home, stop the bike, get phone, hop back on start the bike, pull out.
About a mile down the road, I realize the oil light has come on. Pull over about another 1/2 mile down the road where there is a good, visible/safe spot to do so. Shut the bike down - ignition everything "off", wait maybe 10 seconds, fire everything back up. No oil light.
I've had the same thing happen to me several times in the last month on my 2017 FLHTK. I think it's a just a quirk of the M8 ECUs.
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