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I tried to clean up the photo a bit, but it's still not focused very well. The groove is for oil, yes. My concern was the area I placed the arrows. It has a funky wear pattern like that on all 3 spokes. Your comment did get me thinking - this thing has hammered into 1st gear for a long time. By that I mean while at a stop light in neutral, then shift to 1st. It's all back together now, I'll play with it in the morning. But I did take a short test ride and I noticed that shifting seems crisper and smoother now that I have a new clutch in it.
I think that clack you hear on a first gear shift is not the comp. It's the huge cluster gear stoping in the transmission.
Remember, some windage in the clutch from oil is necessary for a shift since all gears are engaged but those engagement dog are wide and need to drop in to engage gear range.
If you start in neutral with clutch pulled and hold the clutch , and bump bike back , you can break that oil windage and it will shift without the clunk. Do it too much and it stops spinning totally and it won't go in.
I put the Star Racing billet ramp in just shy of 10k miles ago, and found this while doing some clutch work today. It's scored and worn which surprised me. Normal? I'm not as concerned about about the ramp as I am about the wear on the sprocket spoke which has about 52k on it. What would you do?
How long ago in time did you buy it? It would be interesting to know as he originally was reselling the ones made by TTS Performance from England, then he had those knocked off and made locally. What I would do it to take some emery paper and clean up both surfaces, as any rough surfaces will cause excessive wear. Then I would take some dykem and coat the ramp surfaces. If you do not have dykem, a black felt tip marker will do. Then take the parts and reassemble them but leave the springs off so you can twist the ramps both directions while applying a pressure inward. This should leave wear marks in the dykem or marker so you can see what's causing it. The heat treat is not to deep typically and if you have gone through it your in trouble already and should replace both parts.
How long ago in time did you buy it? It would be interesting to know as he originally was reselling the ones made by TTS Performance from England, then he had those knocked off and made locally. What I would do it to take some emery paper and clean up both surfaces, as any rough surfaces will cause excessive wear. Then I would take some dykem and coat the ramp surfaces. If you do not have dykem, a black felt tip marker will do. Then take the parts and reassemble them but leave the springs off so you can twist the ramps both directions while applying a pressure inward. This should leave wear marks in the dykem or marker so you can see what's causing it. The heat treat is not to deep typically and if you have gone through it your in trouble already and should replace both parts.
It was purchased and installed in February of this year.
I found a picture of the sprocked that I took in February when in installed the Star ramp -
And here's a pic of the 2 ramps. As you can see, there's no witness marks at all in the OEM ramp.
Looks like I've answered my own question here, and I get to replace the compensator. YAY!
OK then that would be the knock off one not the original EN36 one from TTS Performance in England. I wonder if they got the heat treat too soft on the new one, to get that kind of wear in less than 8 months.
OK then that would be the knock off one not the original EN36 one from TTS Performance in England. I wonder if they got the heat treat too soft on the new one, to get that kind of wear in less than 8 months.
I can't get my head past the chicken or the egg thing here. In other words was it the sprocket or the ramp that lead to this near failure?
But one thing is certain, I took something that wasn't broken and fixed it 'till it was.
What compensator would you suggest as a replacement?
I just found this post from last year. If I should have known this, I didn't. C’est la vie, time to move on.
Originally Posted by TTS Performance
Remember if you change to my ramps to ensure that the original sprocket is cleaned up and polished if it was damaged due to the breakage or just from metal to metal contact. If you don't it will act like a file. Also use the best hi impact oil you can get, Redline to a gear oil. I noticed not only a reduction in metal to metal contact but also a huge reduction in wear of the change tensioner pad. By the way my ramps are 4340 on 4130 and case hardened so they still have a tough core.
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