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Is the factory plastic lifter cuff supposed to pivot/rotate when tightened? I read through this whole thread and decided not to replace the lifter cuffs when I was gathering all the parts for a cam change.
Over the weekend I replaced the cam and initially I didn't even open the lifter cover since I wasn't planning on replacing the lifter cuffs.
When I tried to slip the lifters up from the cam chest the lifters wouldn't fit through the lifter cuff. Then I stuck a finger down there and realized I can move the plastic lifter cuff by hand! I was able to pivot it back and forth, like the bolt wasn't tight.
Anyway, I didn't feel comfortable installing new lifters with the plastic cuffs like that. Luckily I found some s&s in stock at the dealer so I was able to continue the install.
I was super nervous with removing the bolts. Interesting thing was that even though the bolts were hard to turn like people described, it felt like it was not tightened all the way and that is why the plastic cuffs were able to be moved by hand. Anyways, luckily I was able to get both front and rear bolt out without using any heat, the rear came out pretty easy, the front was really tight and I worked it back and forth and sprayed a bunch of pb-blaster while I was doing it but it finally came out in one piece.
Another interesting thing was when I was calling the dealers around here, initially I was trying to find the stock harley plastic cuffs. The guy at the dealer where I got the s&s cuffs told me they use the s&s cuffs for every cam swap they do there and they don't stock the plastic cuffs
To answer your question, no the lifter cuffs should not be free to move, no matter what they're made from. I wonder if you don't have a bit of crap in the bottom of the blind hole, right from the factory. The smart folks here say that if you are using a 'not too radical' streetable cam the plastic cuffs are just fine. I didn't listen and installed metal in my motor, but it wasn't necessary with my cam.
Having said that, if you've got the S&S units installed and tight and aligned nicely with the bores I would leave it alone and move on.
I dint think the lifter cuff is supposed to be moveable by hand either.
i also think there was either extra thread locker crap in the bottom of the bolt hole or almost like they used so much thread locker and it dried while they were driving the bolt on and so they didnt tighten it completely.
Since I was able to move cuff by hand I tried to see if I can tighten the bolt and sure enough the bolt got a
bit tighter. Once tightened I didnt try to see if the plastic cuff could still be moved since by then I already decided to replace rhem
here are some pics of the lifter cuff Notice the metal ring fits really loosely inside the plastic cuff. Its loose but doesnt come out Bolt inserted from the bottom of the cuff. You can see the metal sleeve is just a tad taller than the plastic cuff From the top of the cuff where the bolt head would be. I think those little nubs around the metal sleeve are what prevents the cuff from moving when the bolt is tightened. On mine they look a little bit worn
Based on the recommendations of Feuling from a Thrashin video. I decided to reuse the plastic lifter cuffs when I changed the cam in my SE131 to a Woods 77X. I was very worried about breaking the lifter cuff bolts, so I purchased magnetic lifter holders from Fuel Moto. I didn't even need to take the tappet covers off. Just held the lifters in place using the magnets, removed the cam, then removed the lifters down into the cam chest. Worked great, saved some time, and no worry about broken lifer cuff bolts. I did use new lifters when installing the new cam.
Based on the recommendations of Feuling from a Thrashin video. I decided to reuse the plastic lifter cuffs when I changed the cam in my SE131 to a Woods 77X. I was very worried about breaking the lifter cuff bolts, so I purchased magnetic lifter holders from Fuel Moto. I didn't even need to take the tappet covers off. Just held the lifters in place using the magnets, removed the cam, then removed the lifters down into the cam chest. Worked great, saved some time, and no worry about broken lifer cuff bolts. I did use new lifters when installing the new cam.
Did you try moving the plastic cuff to see if they are tight? I'm just curious if the lifter cuffs being able to be moved by hand was a fluke or if they are all like that
Except now guys are finding LOOSE lifter cuffs. The plastic or the insert sleeve that the bolt goes through is deteriorating, and the cuffs are loose.
I would at least check them. The money spent on a magnetic holding tool could go towards a torch. They are not that hard to remove if you take your time and use some common sense.
The only recommendation I saw for NOT running aftermarket was for a super high lift cam IIRC. I am going to .550 ish cam next, and I am still going to run them.
32K on the Wood 408 .520 lift.
11k miles on the 4680 .600 lift.
Had the cam chest apart 1,500 miles ago and still looking great. Pictures represent this. Rears were the same. I did use two .002" shims on both contact points when torqueing to spec. Lifters moved freely, up and down on their own weight while spinning the assembly over while priming the pump.
Did you try moving the plastic cuff to see if they are tight? I'm just curious if the lifter cuffs being able to be moved by hand was a fluke or if they are all like that
I did not try to move them, I left the tappet covers on so I didn't have a chance to check tightness.
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