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I'm on the fence as to changing the plastic lifter cuffs when I do my stage 2 upgrade. My question isn't relative to the durability or longevity of the plastic cuffs. I have heard that they are not compatible with cams of a particular lift. I am using the 22xe cam so are the plastic cuffs compatible with this cam?
I'm on the fence as to changing the plastic lifter cuffs when I do my stage 2 upgrade. My question isn't relative to the durability or longevity of the plastic cuffs. I have heard that they are not compatible with cams of a particular lift. I am using the 22xe cam so are the plastic cuffs compatible with this cam?
can you try and compare that cam specs to the most aggressive Screaming Eagle Stage 3 or 4 kit cam specs which don't include or require upgraded lifter cuffs?
I'm on the fence as to changing the plastic lifter cuffs when I do my stage 2 upgrade. My question isn't relative to the durability or longevity of the plastic cuffs. I have heard that they are not compatible with cams of a particular lift. I am using the 22xe cam so are the plastic cuffs compatible with this cam?
I'm on the fence as to changing the plastic lifter cuffs when I do my stage 2 upgrade. My question isn't relative to the durability or longevity of the plastic cuffs. I have heard that they are not compatible with cams of a particular lift. I am using the 22xe cam so are the plastic cuffs compatible with this cam?
I don't know if the plastic originals need replacing or not but for what they are worth I think it's a no brainer to replace them personally, apparently it is very rare for the oem cuffs to fail, I've ordered some to go with my 22xe cam install also
Plenty of threads that show its really just a waste of time, effort and money unless youre building some sort of drag strip running machine. The propensity for the nut to break to replace is something I wouldnt even try. But then again I am not cracking my engine open for anything. I have had sportys, EVOs, twinkie and now 114 M8, as what I feel is experience regarding output and reliability, hands down this M8 is leaps and bounds. And I had a bumped up twinkie and EVO that were something during their era. But its your machine. All that matters. Good luck with the upgrades.
I just don't like plastic and I'm replacing the plastic intake manifold also which apparently doesn't need to be done
cool but I dont see a correlation however i did change my manifold. Its outside the engine. Plenty of extremely high performance motors that run plastic parts with no failure. As I said as it was asked, no need to but if one is wanting to, its your/their bike. I figure maybe one day, after lots of miles, I will do a build. Intake wont hurt in the interim. At 31.5k and rolling but not opening the motor up unless its worn to point of repair.
The Auto industry had been using plastic lifter cuffs for years on high revving engines. The GM LS motors use plastic cuffs. I have yet to hear of a Harley lifter cuff failure. S&S has made a perfect solution to a non problem.
can you try and compare that cam specs to the most aggressive Screaming Eagle Stage 3 or 4 kit cam specs which don't include or require upgraded lifter cuffs?
Aggressive SE kit?
Seriously though, there is no need to change them. I did it because at the time, they were $55 and I liked pretty CNC stuff, it just went in the cart with the rest of it.
I did not break any bolts removing the plastic ones, I shimmed the S&S, they work.
Running a 22xe with the stock plastic cuffs, no issues. I dont see how there ever would be an issue, the purpose of the cuff is to keep the litter from rotating. GM has been using plastic cuffs in every small block for the past 20 years, the only time they fail is when the litter fails, at that point youre screwed anyways.
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