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Since oil filters don't take all the claimed micron rated dirt out on the first pass and spend a good part of the time on bypass until oil reaches about 200 degrees the cleaner the oil is at that time the better I feel about it. Until the oil reaches temp the bypass is open to some extent, and the more the filter is plugged the more it opens and for longer periods. A simple thing like cracking the throttle will actually open this valve momentarily. The oil fiter is not what most people think it is for protection. It needs time with hot oil at constant rpms to do it's intended job. 5k for a 5 micron midjet filter in my view is too long between changes. Ron
Hey if you bike is new and you are doing your 1st oil Change then 1000 miles is where you want
to do it. You don't know how long that oil has been in your bike and breaks down faster when new! After that 3000 - 5000 miles depending what you are using. I suggest oil and not synthetic for first 3000 miles.
My 1998 Electra Glide I bought new has been living by the above service schedule once warranty was up. The bike currently has around 180,000 miles with original lifters, cam, pistons, rings, heads, jugs, and lower end. Knock on wood....it still does not leak or burn any oil and power is still strong delivering around 50mpg. Bike does not get ridden as much anymore though since I bought a 1998 FLHTCUI last year.
That's a good record, and my '96 RK had 106k with no engine work except cam (EV13), adjustable pushrods (Taperlite), Torrington bearing, lifters (precaution only), stator (precaution), and primary chain (precaution). The exception is that I used synthetic oil except for break-in. Traded the old guy in last year and its still running with a very happy and loving new owner.
Hi all,
I was wondering how many people doa 2500 mile oil change?
I hear of so many people doing it but in the owners manual of my 07 street glide it says to change the oil at 1000 miles and than 5000 miles.
My question is where did the 2500 one come in and if it is necessary why does'nt the manual say?
That's a good record, and my '96 RK had 106k with no engine work except cam (EV13), adjustable pushrods (Taperlite), Torrington bearing, lifters (precaution only), stator (precaution), and primary chain (precaution). The exception is that I used synthetic oil except for break-in, changed every 5k. Traded-in the old guy (male bike, being a Road King) last year and its still running with a very happy and loving new owner.
IMO, there isn't a good reason to change the oil <5k unless you run in unusually dusty conditions, although I would do it at least once per year.
Well- I changed my erl at 2,500 was peak summer season and we had some 100 degree days- also got stuck at some lights and she got a little hot, so chnaged out the erl, used a scaveneger system and she's all good. My indy wrench said the oil looked very clean - will be trying out amsoil though and see how that works as bike needs a 5 K service anyway.
oil and filter changed every 3k, always have alway will. All I know isnone of my bike have ever had engine issues and all have been run up to 60k plus before I've traded out. Oil is the engine blood, keep it clean and fresh and she'll treatyou right.
Let me bust another gut !A "free flowing" air filter lets in more dirt?
A free flowing filter removes the EPA restrictive, noise suppressinginlet--it doesn't let in more dirt!.Many are larger in size, but have a tighter weave. In many cases, the filtering is actually better!
Ever hear of K&N?
WTF. You can't be serious. Look at the size of the holes in the elementand stop reading the company bs claims of more air flow and better filtration. Yes I've heard of K&N and actually use the heavy breather on my bike. I also know it won't do as good of a job for filtration as the stock paper element, but that's the trade off I'm willing to take for performance.The only other option is a paper filter the size of a garbage can but that looks cah cah. Ron
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