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I AM GETTING READY TO DO A 5000 MILE SERVICE ON MY 05 FATBOY I AM GOING TO DO THIS MYSELF BECAUSE THE DEALER WANTS WAY TO MUCH LIKE ALMOST $300.00 SO I AM GOING TO CHANGE THE OIL PRIMARY AND TRANS MYSELF I KEEP READING DIFFERNT POSTS ON OIL AND OTHER LUBES, SO WHAT'S EVERYBODY USING ? SHOULD I JUST TO TO THE HARLEY SHOP AND BUY THE HARLEY BRANDS OR WHATS OUT THERE AND WHAT DO YOU ALL PUT IN THE TRANSMISSION, PRIMARY ECT.
Everyone has a different opinion but here's mine. In the crankcase and primary, I use either Amsoil or Mobil 1 20W-50. In the transmission, I use either Amsoil 75W-90 synthetic gear oil or Redline Shockproof Heavy. There are better oils than HD's regular or synthetic and they are usually less expensive. I get Mobil 1 at Wallyworld for $6.88 a quart. On oil filters, I use HD's OEM filter.
If you don't have one, I'd suggest you get a service and repair manual from HD. It costs $50 but is well worth it. One other suggestion, when you unbolt the derby cover, make sure you have the exact sized torx wrench or you will strip the bolt heads. Finally, when you reinstall the derby cover on the outer primary cover, make up the bolts a little at a time using a crossing pattern. This will eliminate potential seepage.
In my 05 E/G Classic, I've been using Screaming Eagle Syn oil from the dealer. It goes in all three holes if you want. No warranty issues either. Shifts smoother and might even be running a bit cooler too. You didn't mention if the dealer did the 1000 mile service, and what oil you currently have in her. Use syn if you can. Have fun.
My dealer charged me $87 for the 5K miler. Only thing I did was change the motor oil myself. He did the rest and did all that was required. Some of these HD dealers are on dope.
I HAD THE DEALER DO THE 1000 MI SERVICE BUT I AM GOING TO DO THE 5000 MI MYSELF SO I AM NOT SURE WHAT TYPE OF OIL THEY USED I AM SURE THEY USED PLAN OLD HD OIL AND ALL THE OTHER HD FLUILDS I NEED TO CHECK THE PAPER WORK ALSO ON THE TRANS. WHAT SIZE OF TOOL IS NEEDED TO OPEN THE TRANS FILLER?
Transmission filler cap is a 3/8" allen bolt. The drain plugs on the oil and transmission are either 5/8" or 3/4" hex head, I can't remember which. On the transmission drain plug, loosen it with a socket then unscrew it the rest of the way with an allen wrench. A socket won't clear the shocks as the plug loosens and if you try to break it loose with an allen wrench, you are likely to strip the bolt head.
On a 2000 and newer Softail the drain sizes are 1/4" allen wrench for the motor transmission oil drains, 3/16" allen for the primary drain.
Transmission fill is 3/8" allen wrench. A little trick I have learned is if you can't get an allen socket into the transmission fill because aftermarket pipes are in the way, get a "coupling nut" that is 3/8" hex and use an open end wrench with it. Works like a charm.
I did a complete 5000 service on my 2001 Heritage yesterday afternoon. Fluids and a filter cost me about $50.00. Start to finish, just a bit over an hour. I followed the checklist in the back of the owners manual, but I also use a service manual.
I have one of those bike lifts with the long handle that fits under the frame and raises the front wheel off the ground about 4". It's perfect for doing a service because it doesn't get in the way of the oil drains.
I use a large aluminum throw away roasting pan to catch the oils. It fits under all three drains at the same time. While the oils are draining I lubricate the cables and adjust the primary chain and clutch. After oils are drained, I replace the plugs and move the pan under the oil filter. After replacing the filter I spray the area with carb cleaner to wash away oil that ran all over the bike. Add fresh oil, complete the checklist and you are ready to ride.
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The carb cleaner thing is unnecessary. You can buy a plastic catch tray to go under the filter or you can take a 2 liter soda bottle and do a little creative carving to make your own catch basin that slides right under the oil filter.
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