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So some repair work is definitely needed before getting too far into the hack.
Sidecar fender to frame extension and step.. They should be aligned. There is a bit of freeplay but nnot this much (just about 1 inch center to center of the bolt holes).
Checking the frame it is because of this
i
Not sure I have ever seen such an ugly cut and weld job on a Harly part.
Weekend job is to remove fender rivets from the fender brace in order to straighten the fender and the brace
Inside braces need a bit of work
Fender defintely needs the Harly hammer to it.
Should be able to get th parts straight again. Next week the parts go to my paint stripper. I get them back the next step will be to re-rivet the fender, mount it again in place, get it to my buddy's for proper measurement, cut the externsion bar, insert a sleeve and reweld
Last edited by panz4ever; Feb 21, 2020 at 03:30 PM.
Do you absolutely need to run the adjustable front end to use a sidecar? Ive debated getting a sidecar for the 66 a few times (and again right now).
Originally Posted by johnjzjz
riding it with out the add on''s will teach you they were not adding parts to sell in the factory parts manual
John said it much more aptly than I Paul but yeah ya do. Only a couple degrees difference in adjustment but a really big difference once the wheels are on the ground and you are riding it.
Initially I had wanted to add a hack to my EL but realized I would have to go back to an offset springer (like thast used on 1948 models) or jump to a 50 style front adjustable front end. So in the interest of keeping it as close to correct as possible I nixed the plan.
Last edited by panz4ever; Feb 23, 2020 at 11:16 AM.
Spent yesterday grinding and removing rivets in order to separate the fender from the brace. Taking it apart these pieces were between the front and rear fender and brace (but not on the top). There were two pieces in each place. There was one piece between the fender and the fender front bracket. Haven't a clue of the purpose and nothing is listed in the parts book referencing thses. They look like pipe hanger strap to me and made of 16 ga material. I am all ears if someone can fill me in on their purpose.
Only have the bottom outside corner of the brace to tweak a bit. Got the other three corners fixed and struts to my liking
I am trying to figure out how to route the wires for the voltage regulator and the relay. There is a single loom (black wire) that goes from the #3 post on the relay to the front electrical panel under the nacelle. There is double loom (red and green wires) that goes from the voltage regulator to the generator.
The only pics I have is from this bike
and this bike...
So it looks as tho the looms come up between the right side of the frame, and get routed along the top backbone to their separate locations.
There is already a four wire loom from the rear terminal plate to the dash as well as a two wire loom from the rear directional signals to the front panel. If done in that manner, it is gonna get real tight and squishy trying to get it under the seat T-bar area.
1. Is there another way these wires should be routed?
In addition to the directional signal wires and the relay wire looms, there is an additional four wire loom from the dash panel to the front electrical panel under the nacelle.
2. Do all three looms come out on the right side of the neck?
Last question is about the two wire loom from the voltage regulator to the generator. If it runs across the backbone, I would assume it comes out on the left side of the neck and travels down the left downtube to the generator
3. If so, how is the wire loom secured to the downtube?
Yes I undertsand that the relay was not an option until 1967 but HD offered a retro fit. I made my own plate that I copied from a 70- 73 battery box. Regulator and relay are OEM. Cleaning the cover took off some of the original script decal on the regulator, but I was really srprised how well it has lasted. Think all the grime helped preserve the finish. Cad plating on the relay is a bit worn. Had it in my stash for umpteen years but it looks better than my original.
Maybe a Shovel owner who also follows the Pan section can chime in as well since the relay was used fro 1967 until 1973 and the regulator was used on 1965-1969 models.
Last edited by panz4ever; Feb 28, 2020 at 02:13 PM.
OK this is one of the spots I have found that the AMCA does not make a big deal out of for a few reasons
first one id ed E2000 magnet trigger instead of points that today are maybe 30 percent of what they were - starts faster and never needs adjusting have one 6 years
second one mimics the ignition trigger in that its a electronic trigger voltage regulator that bolts under the chrome end cover of the generator < 100 bucks
the plusses -- today we can buy a 380 amp AMG glass mat battery BUT it struggles with 50s style voltage regulators in that they do not stabilize, with one constant voltage while riding like a alternator regulator does later shovel evo on - it shortens its life the battery and gets it hot to the touch < not my ideal battery charging system - plus the by metallic point contacts in the mechanical voltage regulator 4 inches from the rear exhaust pipe is not ideal as well
so we do both electronic systems on all restos Indian and Harley 6 volt 3 brush systems can then use a lithium ion battery with no issues
+12 systems really like the 380 amp AMG over a 190 amp liquid acid drip battery < reason they do drip see above explain / I realize what your doing and I agree if its sitting in a museum but if you and I believe you intend on riding it a lot - this is the smart thing to do - connect original regulator wires and ty off under the battery box - done
regulator wiring from the end cover bottom opening - green to field terminal - red to armature terminal with the green cloth from the light - the black gets tied off to the frame rail to the red for the starter relay - or direct to the battery 12 volt plus its 3 wires that disappear when you slide the black wire covering from the era on them - can take picture on the 65 in the shop if needed
Understand what you are saying john. Its just that before putting this aside it was myonly ride for everything east of the Rockies. fried onbe regulator on Hwy 6 in Nevada. It was one of those late September schorcher days. Now if I go east it is on the 84 FLH. So the 65 will definitely get the miles, just not he high miles from days past.
The CycleElectric generator work well. I still have a very good condition Electric Frank. been reading about the EBeyound 2000. That may come to pass sooner once I get the engine in and brokebn in proerply. Drop in ignition looks sweet.
And this is never gonna be at an AMCA meet for judging. Just trying to bring back some of its former looks and beauty with some old time nostalga thrown into the mix that I know will still function.
I have the Ebeyond on my Flathead, great piece of equipment. Only issue is the coil must be 3 OHM's, if not you will spend two years chasing fried coils, ask me how I know?!?!? I now run a 3 OHM Shovel coil and the bike runs great with that setup, would recommend.
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