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You have a tank shift trans top, the bike is foot shift no?
Sorry when I took that pic I was fitting the 3+R toi see how it would all go together. From the factory it was a 4 speed with the mousetrap. I am changing it over to the 3+R becuase I am adding a hack. Could have stayed with the 4 speed but it seems kinda cool to be abe to put it in reverse to back out of a spot if the need arises. It is why I have been looking for the tanks as well. 65 used the 3-1/2 gallon tanks. In 66 MoCo used the frame shift set up with the 5 gallon tanks. I have my original 5 gallon tanks and the parts for the frame shift. The thought is to use the smaller tanks for local stuff and if I decide to do a long haul then change over to the 5 gallon tanks and the frame shift. Good news is that the 3-1/ gallon 51-53 tanks I have are tank shift. Worst case is I paintr them and run them and look for my year at some AMCA swap meet next year. They are out there. Just takes, patience, time, and greenbacks.
Going to keep the 4 speed and rebuild it when I am finished with the rest of the project.
Also changing out the trees to the 60 n up adjustable triple trees.
the 65 with 3 1/2 tanks and a shift gate takes a lever trans top, and the reverse drum is not easy to find - also does not work in a ratchet top cover as a 3 with reverse
the 4 speed tanks 66 on uses - a ratchet top cover -- it just swings back and forth to up or down shift - no fixed locations
to swap out back and forth with 3 1/2 tanks to 5 gallon - you need to swap the trans as well as the shifter to the frame and no gain -
3rd - hi gear ratio and 4th - hi gear ratio is exactly the same - using a 23 trans sprocket with the 51 rear is a 2 up sweet spot gear for riding a stock flat side < Andrews A 2 cam choice - best for that app
it will be a bit of clutch slide to get it to pull it and the car off the stops - but a 22 trans sprocket maxes you out at 55 instead of 60 / 63 MPH using the 23 sprocket < this of course is riding like a human being -- we have had luck with kevlor green alto clutches and the newer type flat steels
the police duty green plastic discs can and do shake at starts when cold - don't use the spring and ball steel clutch plates - just the later flat steels what ever clutch -- and convert the springs to a diaphragm hat -- tedds - v twin sells one reasonable and it really works < a joy like a evo clutch lever
Different parts for the 3 + R: Shift cam, shift gear, shift fork, reverse gear, countershaft low (3+R), countershaft gear (19 tooth for 3+R), mainshaft low and reverse, mainshaft 2nd gear for handshift, and 3+R shift gate for tank shift and frame shift.
Idea is to leave the 3+R tranny in at all times.
Guess we shall see if I have it figured right (or not)
Thanks John for the heads up on the green alto plates and the "no rattle" steel plates. I will check out Tedds for the diaphram hat as well.
These are the 51-53 tanks that I had on the shelf since about 1990. Had them saved for a 58 motor in a 57 frame project that I sold to help out with my daughters college education.
I had always assumed that they were for foot shift model. Had my powdercoat guy strip the paint off and after removing the bondo on the left tank with a propane torch, putty knife and stainless steel brush, I found this...
Left tank...
right tank...
repaired at some point in its life but no leaks
one tab rewelded...
Good job on the reweld. Sits flush against the frame tabs
Insides of tanks are really clean plus the emblems appear to be OEM as well (from the markings on them).
So worst case scenarios...paint them all black, chrome the emblems, and run them until I find a proper set of 3-1/2 gallon 63-65 tanks with a tank shift
Last edited by panz4ever; Dec 17, 2019 at 11:17 AM.
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