When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hard to tell without them side by side but looks like a typical canvas attach.
Try a marine canvas shop or supplier.
May not be as easy as I thought. Now I remember the marine stuff usually has a wood screw for attachment and not a small bolt.
Mine only had "common sense fasteners" for the tonneau cover, nothing like what is in the picture.
Just went back and looked at the pics you had sent me from your hack and yes yours is different than mine. My cover was similar to the the one in this 47 Knuckle and I used it as a guide to rebuild mine
Been a while since I posted any progress on the 65. Good news is that I got it running. Have a steady leak from the cam cover oil passage bolt with the engine running. It is as tight as I can get it. Has the brass washer behind it as required. Can't find the washers themselves so I had to order the bolt and washer from Colony. I'll compare the two when I get the new one. Of course I am open to recommendations for solving this another way if anyone has some suggestions.
Generator light was staying on with the motor running. Tested the relay and it was DOA. Fortunately had another OEM as a back up, so that should solve that issue. Rookie mistake. Should have tested it before doing the install. I zeroed in on the relay immediately because I had the generator rebuilt and the relay was new to the rebuild (didn't have one on the bike before the rebuild).
Bike cranks too long before starting when cold. No intake manifold leaks. Not a smooth idle either. Had a shop rebuild the bottom end and they also rebuilt and installed the timer. Pulled the cover and this is what I am looking at.
So while the timing mark on the sides are aligned, it sure doesn't seem there is a lot in the way of adjustment for the circuit breaker base assembly.? Shouldn't it be more centered? Think I may have to call on Twizted to assist in this. And since I have found some sipping whiskey he enjoys, I may be able to lure him down
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 1, 2026 at 10:57 AM.
As long as the point gap is good and the timing correct where the slot is don't matter.
While I've had time to run my 65 with the Linkert. For me starting does not require full choke. It's too easy to flood with electric start. With the motor cold, I simple push the choke lever down 2 clicks and crack the throttle slightly. It starts right up and I go to 1 click quickly.. Choking this way is the similar to using an enricher on a later carb.
I used copper washers from HF on the oil screw. I may have had to cut the OD down for them to fit. Don't remember. Also make sure the mating surfaces are flat. Bottom side of aftermarket screws can be rough and the cover surface may be dinged.
I'm going to sneak in on this, was over to Dave's today to play with the 65 a bit, pictures do not do that bike justice. The man takes building these things correctly very seriously. We got it fired up, tweaked a few things and she starts easy and idles nicely now. Little bait.
Max Headflow, thanks for the advice on the Carb start. Worked like a charm. And thanks for the visit from Twizted , fine tune was perfect (forgot to take some video).
Only bad was that it won't go into 3rd. Spent the rest of the day tearing $hit apart so that I can get at the transmission. First time I've rebuilt a transmission and it has done what it is supposed to do...shift thru all the gears but, then again, I haven't rebuilt a 3 +R since 1989. Once I get it out I'll pop the top. Dan suggested the shift drum may be one notch off. Guess we'll see. Part of me want to keep it, the other says dump it and just go back to the 4 speed. I recall John stating that the top end on a 3+ R is really bad.
Yeah, I thinking to remove the choke blade. I'll leave the shaft since the detent is on the other side.. Might even run better with that funny disc / spring hanging off the blade..
Max Headflow, thanks for the advice on the Carb start. Worked like a charm. And thanks for the visit from Twizted , fine tune was perfect (forgot to take some video).
Only bad was that it won't go into 3rd. Spent the rest of the day tearing $hit apart so that I can get at the transmission. First time I've rebuilt a transmission and it has done what it is supposed to do...shift thru all the gears but, then again, I haven't rebuilt a 3 +R since 1989. Once I get it out I'll pop the top. Dan suggested the shift drum may be one notch off. Guess we'll see. Part of me want to keep it, the other says dump it and just go back to the 4 speed. I recall John stating that the top end on a 3+ R is really bad.
Naw we'll get it sorted my friend, it's a thing till it isn't anymore. I owe you for that bottle of Rabbit Hole, it was a little too tasty, didn't wake up till noon Sunday much to Rosanne's amusement.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.
