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the 65 with 3 1/2 tanks and a shift gate takes a lever trans top, and the reverse drum is not easy to find - also does not work in a ratchet top cover as a 3 with reverse
the 4 speed tanks 66 on uses - a ratchet top cover -- it just swings back and forth to up or down shift - no fixed locations
to swap out back and forth with 3 1/2 tanks to 5 gallon - you need to swap the trans as well as the shifter to the frame and no gain -
3rd - hi gear ratio and 4th - hi gear ratio is exactly the same - using a 23 trans sprocket with the 51 rear is a 2 up sweet spot gear for riding a stock flat side < Andrews A 2 cam choice - best for that app
it will be a bit of clutch slide to get it to pull it and the car off the stops - but a 22 trans sprocket maxes you out at 55 instead of 60 / 63 MPH using the 23 sprocket < this of course is riding like a human being -- we have had luck with kevlor green alto clutches and the newer type flat steels
the police duty green plastic discs can and do shake at starts when cold - don't use the spring and ball steel clutch plates - just the later flat steels what ever clutch -- and convert the springs to a diaphragm hat -- tedds - v twin sells one reasonable and it really works < a joy like a evo clutch lever
Incredible knowledge. Im trying to remember what I had for breakfast Sunday morning..
This has been a really beautiful and rich thread. My coffee time at 5 am that usually takes 30 minutes has taken 2.5 hours. My guys can figure the schedule for today on their own lol.
I really appreciate all the comments and knowledge, pretty humbling. Beautiful bike. It’s extremely rewarding to be a part of the thread reading along.
Bill, I'd like to but I've run into some issues, mainly that the mainshaft low-reverse gear is too worn to work (it was used when I got it it) and same applies to my countershaft gear cluster.
So to you and all out there, the question of the day from me... I've got my original 4-speed gear box with the ratchet lid for the mousetrap. The gears are in excellent condition and include a combo of Andrews and I assume aftermarket (unmarked) gears. The shifter forks are also in great condition. I have the parts to convert the hand shift lid from the 3 +R to the 4-speed (shift drum and shifter gear). Doing that can I then just put that lid on the 4-speed gear box and run it (obviously after making any needed adjustment to the 4-speed shifter forks and shifter drum so that they are properly aligned with the gears)?
At this point I want the bike on the road and then I will sort thru the 3+ R (basically finding gears that aren't hammered).
So I have a gas leak issue with the tanks. Tank shut off rod is properly aligned. I am using a peek seal tip on the rod bottom. I am using the copper crush washers top and bottom. Still getting leaks from the crossover line and the bottom of the tanks.
You can try annealing the copper washers as the were likely work hardened when stamped out..
I use Teflon washers that were made from 1/16 sheet.. You can't crank down on these like you can with the copper ones but for 1500 miles they don't leak. I also use one on the Linkert float bowel. Teflon is pretty soft but is very fuel resistant..
You can try annealing the copper washers as the were likely work hardened when stamped out..
I use Teflon washers that were made from 1/16 sheet.. You can't crank down on these like you can with the copper ones but for 1500 miles they don't leak. I also use one on the Linkert float bowel. Teflon is pretty soft but is very fuel resistant..
Looks like I am gonna have to give that a try. Teflon washers...homemade but you?
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 11, 2026 at 11:07 AM.
"You can try annealing the copper washers as they were likely work hardened when stamped out."
Max Headflow, did just that. 12 hours now and still not leaking...finally...I hope. Not sure what is in the crush washers, but before turning bright red, they were on fire for a few.
And thanks for the info on the teflon washers. Gonna hang on to the info.
Last edited by panz4ever; Apr 12, 2026 at 10:15 AM.
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