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Well I have the forks off my 49 EL. For some damn reason I cannot get the right tube to stop from leaking (apart now for the 3rd time). I have another set of OEM lowers that I can use. Had all new bushings put in and fitted withg new uppers as well. (Bills Custom Cycles does great work has and a very reasonable turn around time as well.) It is a very nice dry fit with the new components. The aftermarket parts will be James gaskets andprogressive fork springs. The other forks I will set aside and use for one last custom build once I get the leak corrected.
So the question is about Progressive spring components. The heavy duty shock assembly units are only a few bucks more than the regualr ones, so I am figuring to spend the extra 10 for the heavy duty ones. There is PVC pipe and some auxiliary springs included. How do I know what to use when assembling the springs. I assume the extra springs and pipe provides for a stiffer ride. Think the whole 49 weighs about as much (or less) as a modern day Sportster, so there is not a lot of weight put on the shocks and front end when the drum brakes engage.
Also thinking about posting up the build for the 49. Its been completed for about 2 years now. Haven' got to start it yet due to hip and knee injuries and surgeries/recovery process that occurred right as i was completing the build.
Kinda stuck right now on the 65 build because the places I use are either still temporarily closed or several week behind (engine build, chrome, parkerizing and cad plating).
Be glad when some normalcy returns
Last edited by panz4ever; Jun 11, 2020 at 03:56 PM.
Reason: Grammar
Well I have the forks off my 49 EL. For some damn reason I cannot get the right tube to stop from leaking (apart now for the 3rd time). I have another set of OEM lowers that I can use. Had all new bushings put in and fitted withg new uppers as well. (Bills Custom Cycles does great work has and a very reasonable turn around time as well.) It is a very nice dry fit with the new components. The aftermarket parts will be James gaskets andprogressive fork springs. The other forks I will set aside and use for one last custom build once I get the leak corrected.
So the question is about Progressive spring components. The heavy duty shock assembly units are only a few bucks more than the regualr ones, so I am figuring to spend the extra 10 for the heavy duty ones. There is PVC pipe and some auxiliary springs included. How do I know what to use when assembling the springs. I assume the extra springs and pipe provides for a stiffer ride. Think the whole 49 weighs about as much (or less) as a modern day Sportster, so there is not a lot of weight put on the shocks and front end when the drum brakes engage.
Also thinking about posting up the build for the 49. Its been completed for about 2 years now. Haven' got to start it yet due to hip and knee injuries and surgeries/recovery process that occurred right as i was completing the build.
Kinda stuck right now on the 65 build because the places I use are either still temporarily closed or several week behind (engine build, chrome, parkerizing and cad plating).
Be glad when some normalcy returns
I put progressives in my 62 and you cut the tube to the length they suggest for your application. This also allows you to modify that setting from stock if you wish.
Make sure when you put the seals in that you use some RTV on the outside of the seal that goes against the outer fork tube prior to pressing it in. Sometimes the seal will leak on the outside and not where the seal interfaces with the slide tube on the inside of the tube.
Paul, do they include the recommendations in the instructions? Going to order tonight.
And yes will do re: 49 build
Yes there are instructions in the box and a list of models with measurements. I think mine called for 3" if I recall correctly. Seeing the springs wound with a load range and comfort range (tighter wound in the comfort range) I knew I made the right decision. That and the right oil Im sure the ride will be night and day.
Legs back from Bills Custom Cycles (PA) ready to install with fresh paint. I removed the paint before I sent them in for new bushings knowing there is no way to protect the paint when it is in a vice no matter how careful.
One year only parts...45810-48 and 45812-48
As is brake backing plate
Along with slider tube plugs (no baffles) and stainless covers. These are the second version with a pressure relief valve at the top. When first introduced they were just a sealed cap. The problem became evident when forks were blowing the seals due to pressure with no where to go.
Forks are on, filled and ready to have front fender back on. Just giving it an extra day to enusre that they are not going to leak.
Last edited by panz4ever; Jul 4, 2020 at 06:39 PM.
ok first off i do not use HD springs with the old machines - reason i do not like the ride they provide and it was the first attempt at a hydraulic front suspension so they actually suck at a good ride -- BUT using stock springs we have been getting and lawn mower oil 30 weight they work way better then and other combo -- having said that everyone has an opinion
DRAG RACE car automatic transmission trick with a trans brake - if your seal is blowing the oil out between the seals LIP against the tube - you can take the seal and back fill the under side with black silicone dont get any on the lip leave it 24 hours - the seal now has 5 times the oil stopping power -
what i use and have found to be the right course of action
tubes Hard chrome tedd stocks them 24 - 0023 - oem number for them 45950-48
springs for the tubes 24-0907 and yes i know they are imports - but they have not failed me in 25 plus years
you did not say what exactly was going the oil by pass just you had them apart 3 times
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1949 el
