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This is a painful confession for me, as I have been riding and building bikes for 54 years. My Panhead is a pain in the *** to get started in almost all situations. I have an old Ironhead that is easier to start!
The bike was built by a friend of mine who is a local Indy and quite sought after as a wrench. It is a stock 57 rebuild with a Super E carb and short drag pipes (I know...). It seems like it doesn't matter what combo I use, it only starts when IT wants to! I usually give 3-4 kick throughs with the key off and enrichener on., Key on, 2-3 pumps of the accelerator pump, retard the timing, and drop 230 lbs on the kicker at TDC compression with the throttle barely open. Sometimes it's 5-10 kicks, sometimes 20! It runs great once started. It does have a little surge/occasional snort at certain cruise speeds (drag pipes) so I do plan to go up on the main jet a size or two.
When hot, 1 kick will get it going.. When "in between" (sitting for 30 minutes after a run) it is REALLY a bitch to get going..
I suspect a fueling problem. I rebuilt the carb trying to correct the problem. It doesn't seem like the engine ever "floods." I have pulled the plugs when I thought it was flooded and barely found fuel on them.
What are you guys experiences with these old Pans? Are they all a little stubborn to start, or do I just seem to be getting my purse strap hung up when kicking? LOL
Thanks for any tips/ideas to improve the starting of this bike. It is embarrassing to be kicking my *** off while all of my buddies push the button on their TC's! The reward is how great it is to ride and listen to that old engine purr..................
Sounds like an intake manifold leak. They will drive you crazy and make her a bitch to start, particularly hot. And to tune.
I would start with a intake manifold bubble test to see if you have any leaks. At 10 - 14.5 PSI you should see no bubbles when spraying the manifold with soapy water.
Easy first check, get her started and then spray around the manifold connections with starting fluid. Any change in RPM's, you have a leak. Good luck.
I use to kick 2 times with the choke closed then wide open throttle and the next kick with the key on and timing full forward. 1951 Pan lower shovel upper
Thanks for the replies. I'll check for manifold leaks, but I don't suspect any as it runs really well and idles well. Kicking at full advance has proven to be dangerous for me!
Is the accelerator pump working on the carb? (You can both see and hear it when you're looking down the throat of the carb when the engine's shut off if it is.)
Thanks! I normally build my own, but I must confess that my friend built this one and I haven't changed much. It feels like a mini-bike after getting off the Electraglide. The hard tail is a bit rough on the old spine. I have a smaller solo pogo seat set up, but I'm afraid it will kill the looks of the bike.
Thanks John. I'm a newbie Pan owner, so if I find a leak I'll send pix of the manifold. I have been working on my other bikes that are totally broke, not just partially!
Thanks Stiggy. Yes, it's working great. I actually suspect the enrichener circuit. I let it sit for 6 months with a leaking tank shut off valve (unknowingly). As you can imagine, the insides turned green as the tank continued to keep the bowl full! I completely boiled/blew out and rebuilt the carb, but I'm second guessing myself. I have rebuilt a lot of carbs, including the "green" ones. That damn ethanol is death if left to sit.
I think before I pull the carb I am going to hold my hand over the carb inlet and create a serious vacuum as I kick it once or twice. That should help solve whether it's a fuel problem or not.
The coil, wires, points and condensor are new and the timing is spot on, so.................
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Starting Tips
