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I have the original non "T"ed rear head pipe. I'm thinking about putting it back on.. I'd like to go back to running the mousetrap. Not sure what the issues are with the later oil tank. Looks like the front rubber mount might get in the way of a longer arm..
Not sure what you are referring to on the oil bag. Only difference between the two is the side fill and the screw for the tank top is longer for 65 models (one year only).
You switch to the dual exhaust, make sure you have the correct x-over pipe. There is a designed dent under the pipe to allow the correct clearance for the clutch lever rod.
Other thing to ensure is that you have the correct rear connector pipe. There is a difference between the single exhaust pipe (#65539-65) and the dual exhaust pipe (#65538-65). The dual exhaust pipe is longer.
Not sure what you are referring to on the oil bag. Only difference between the two is the side fill and the screw for the tank top is longer for 65 models (one year only).
You switch to the dual exhaust, make sure you have the correct x-over pipe. There is a designed dent under the pipe to allow the correct clearance for the clutch lever rod.
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Other thing to ensure is that you have the correct rear connector pipe. There is a difference between the single exhaust pipe (#65539-65) and the dual exhaust pipe (#65538-65). The dual exhaust pipe is longer.
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Mine has a shovel cross over. No squashed spot. I don't see where the clutch arm is going to fit between the oil tank and tranny. I may have the wrong arm..
Ain't nothing wrong with keeping the original oiling system on the 65 Pans. The only issue with the 65 models was that the inner primary was non-vented. Pressure build-up from heat would cause the seal on the solenoid to leak. HD solved that with the type 2 inner primary starting in early 66 models. They also offered a retro fit for the early inner primaries. Did that to mine as I was rebuilding it.
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Lotsa times folks convert to a sealed primary under the guise of "...well all that dirty oil being sucked back into the oil bag just can't be a good thing..." My only response is that I took my '65 FLH to 113K before shutting her down. And that is why you have an oil filter in the tank and change oil according to schedule, or sooner if you run it in really nasty conditions.
If you decide to seal the primary, let me know. I have a couple of pics from a guy on another forum who shows exactly how to do it right.
While getting clutch and primary chain swarf into the motor, I think, could be an issue, what about the fact that the primary was full from just sitting? One thing to note is that the stuff has to go through the breather gear and scavenge pump before it gets to the filter. For those reasons I kind of like the idea of isolating the primary and adding a vent / drain.
If the check ball on the oil pump is leaking (common), the oil tank will drain into the engine. The left side main bearing doesn't have a lip seal (unless it was upgraded from stock) so the full engine would then spill into the primary. It would take a lot of oil to do this so is it possible the PO added more oil to the tank at some point seeing it was low which would then end up in the primary as well?
If the check ball on the oil pump is leaking (common), the oil tank will drain into the engine. The left side main bearing doesn't have a lip seal (unless it was upgraded from stock) so the full engine would then spill into the primary. It would take a lot of oil to do this so is it possible the PO added more oil to the tank at some point seeing it was low which would then end up in the primary as well?
Good to know. It's been almost 50 years since I've worked on a Pan motor. If that's the case then isolating the primary won't make any difference. I sucked out about 1 1/2 quarts from the primary..
Good to know. It's been almost 50 years since I've worked on a Pan motor. If that's the case then isolating the primary won't make any difference. I sucked out about 1 1/2 quarts from the primary..
You can add the seal to the left side but its the sumping through the oil pump that would be the issue. The lack of a seal just allows the sumping to transfer to the primary. Fix that and the seal wouldn't really be that critical.
You can add the seal to the left side but its the sumping through the oil pump that would be the issue. The lack of a seal just allows the sumping to transfer to the primary. Fix that and the seal wouldn't really be that critical.
Yeah, I understand the core issue about the pump. Adding a better crank seal only fills the motor up.. While the stock panhead oil pump as a check ball, oil from the feed side can also leak to the scavenge side and into the motor. Shovel and evo pumps have an oil seal on the shaft to keep this from happening. I guess it's one of the reasons why going to a later shovel pump on a Pan is popular.
I dont recall a seal on my 66 shovel pump to separate the chambers, same basic pump as a 65 pan, maybe it was a cone shovel thing. I doubt the oil in the primary was a result of that design difference.
My 54 has a shovel pump and the pinion bushing is fully grooved (by the PO) so no more one squirt per revolution and 20 psi at idle which I like but the question is will it be over-oiling now and give me different problems to deal with?
HD used the same oil pump in the early generator shovels up to 68.. 68-up might might have had the seal but the 61 to 71 parts list does not show it. The 41 to 81 PM does show it and says 68 up had the seal. MPN 26227-58. With that number, I wonder where it was used before 68.. That same seal was used all the way through EVOs.. I guess it's totally possible that the motor in the bike I got sumped from sitting for 20 years.. If that's the case I've nothing to worry about.
I really don't know much about pinion crank oiling setups. Back when I worked on the early stuff, we didn't mess with changing any of that stuff.
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