Mousetrap cable mod question
So, I would like to cut off the handlebar end, trim the housing and cable to fit (I have excellent cable cutters), and reinstall a new end. I have universal, brass set screw-type ends, but would rather have a swaged end so I don't worry about it vibrating off.
Anyone have detailed swaging tips and maybe sources for good-quality ends that would fit?
The only harder part turns out to be finding the right cable ends. Best bet may be either to cut down stainless versions used for deck cable railing setups, or simply use two of McMaster Carr's softer metal offerings to obtain the stock length, as what they sell isn't very long.
I'll keep looking but thus far can't seem to find good reproduction cable ends in the right size. With all the aftermarket stuff out there, seems kind of weird...
I'll check out their smaller stuff and see if the wall thickness is appropriate. I'd rather have steel than aluminum, frankly, so this might be the way to go. Thanks for jolting the old noggin!
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Anyway, the second photo shows what I'll be resolving as soon as I get the new ferrules. I've decided aluminum is what most people use and should be more than adequate, especially with a mousetrap that removes the bulk of the stress on the clutch cable. The new tool is amazingly well made and looks like it'll crimp the crud out of them with little effort. You know, I may just modify the extra I bought on recommendation above, and attach it to the inside of a frame member with some nifty metal clips I saw on the Triumph website. Well, I'd then have to add another tool to the onboard kit to R&R the snap ring if the cable ever went out. Hmmm...
I've fiddled with the throttle cable a bit but actually it works with such little effort and so smoothly, that I don't think I'll bother shortening it. That particular bend doesn't look as bad as it does from this angle. The two others, though, have got to be fixed.
Yes: I got a new, shorter once-piece hose for the brake, too. I will be eliminating the hydraulic switch in favor of just the foot lever OEM switch. I've been through two hydro switches which are total you-know-what. If there's someone behind me, I'll just use both brakes to alert them it's time to back off. Hydraulics tomorrow, cable and photos showing housing and wire modification procedure soon, I hope...
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Nov 27, 2023 at 05:23 PM.
I'll double check the recess in the lever against McMaster Carr, which has aluminum and offers full specs, if I run up against any O.D. critical restrictions with these. But for the price, worth a shot--and unlike aluminum, which is capable of holding 35% of the working load limit of the steel cable to which they are applied, copper is capable of holding 100% of the working load limit of a steel cable. I like that.
Last edited by NM Pan-shovel; Nov 27, 2023 at 07:17 PM.









