Hello All ! Been out of pocket for a while due to some medical and dental issues as well as life getting in the way! Got the 1975 FLH up and running thanx to you guys giving some damned good info. ! Still have to rebuild the forks that are leaking and reseal rocker shaft end caps.
In the mean time , started on the 49 pan/shovel that was my first Harley back in about 1979. Got the engine on the bench and cleaning it up.
My question is -------Has anyone tried removing/replacing a Colony motor sprocket shaft seal???? Can't seem to get the circlip/snap ring out due to lack of clearance with the seals aluminum lip ! My eyes ain't what they used to be but, when I put on my magnifiers and use a bright flashlight I don't see any space to remove the clip. I was wanting to replace the seal since it has been sitting since 1986.

Thanx, Tommy

 

depending on the end play that was set you might be able to tap the seal in and then the clip — most times you cant

originally it was a reverse winder and replacement was at a rebuild - but i understand the seal being hard - splitting the cases in the only real way as the clip goes in then the winder or seal from the inside - that sits on the clip to hold in place and becomes part of what is in the end play of the loose roller bearing

 

Thanx John, gonna check on the end play and see if seal will move inward any. I was trying not to split the cases unless I have to. Might try to find some dental picks and try again. I was wanting to get the bike back together and start it. But while it is apart it is much easier to work on. About 25 years ago I was able to get the frame it was built with and clean it up. Need to get it painted or powder coated next Frame guy said it was a 50 wish bone. Flattened down tubes, no horn pads, tool box bracket needs to be replaced , mechanical brake tube was cut . replaced top motor mount and checked for straightness and alignment. Trans was rebuilt also. need to find some tanks and an FLH front end before assembling things. Plenty of ambition but, limited funds. So , I try to do as much as I can with what I have!!! ! Onward through the frogs! LOL

 

FYI powder coating of antique frame is considered a bad idea these days. All identifying hallmarks become difficult or impossible to see reducing value. Paint is fine, of course, Good luck.

 

Good to know!!!! So , paint it is. I wrote down all of casting numbers that I found for my records when getting it cleaned up as well.
Went out back to screw with the seal removal. I was able to get a mini pick behind the tang on the retainer ring and bend it out enough to get some pliers on it and got the little bugger out!!!! I needed a win today!!! it's in the 30's outside and 50 on the back porch today so screw that ****!!!!!!

 

It sounds like a 1948 frame BUT only 1948 would have a fork lock tumbler on the right side of the neck and would bee the only frame that had only round tubes because horn was on the springer under the Headlight

 

It has the fork lock tumbler hole on R.H. side of the neck but , the down tubes of the frame are flattened where they bow.Really clean. Can't find any cracks or bad spots. Still need to get it blasted and put the tool box bracket on it.All the welds look good . Debating on the mechanical brake bracket, Been 40 years since I have done any painting . To give you an idea , my spray gun is a Binks high pressure low volume model!!! Does that date me or what?

 

O.K., Got the snap ring and seal out finally. Popped the crankcase drain plug to drain cases. Shot some brakleen in to flush out the gunk. Found the cases were leaking out the belly seam and there was a little metal flake in what came out!!! So it's coming apart ! So here come the questions for John and any other Panhead Gurus out there!!!
First , I have a 1949 pan bottom end with a 1978 shovel top end . If I'm correct , the rods would be panhead and shovel pistons installed on top? I'm gonna pull the top end and check it out . The bottom end is another story. Don't have the tools and equipment needed to do the work! Is there anything I should be aware of for the rebuild? Any up dates or modifications that you would recommend such as cam choice ? I was wanting to keep it fairly low on compression and run it on pump gas. Want to be able to still kick it to life without killing my back or hips. Pushing 70 now and wondering about my choice of a kick start , rigid frame scooter at this point. I've got the time but limited funds being retired ! Also, does anyone know of a reputable shop with panhead experience in the Houston, Tx. area ? Tried looking up some of the guys that either built , worked on , or had any info. from back in the day when I bought it . Sadly , they are all dead , in prison , or in a nursing home / have fallen of the grid! Talked to a few youngsters , after about 10-15 minutes I could tell they were not to be trusted for info. much less do any work on my bike!!!!
Any hoo , hope this post isn't broad on the questions as I am still wrapping my head around getting back in the game !
Thanx in advance everyone ! Tommy

 

That motor is not a tool type engine to split - both sides of the crank shaft has loose roller bearings so take the bolts out rubber hammer and it will come apart

but you want to remove all the cam side gearing - oil pump - then see how much movement is side to side before you unbolt he cases flywheel end play we are checking - hold it firm on the stand on the bench and a dial gage or even a steel veneer its in the spec we want around .010 and another check before splitting

turn the cases and look from the front straight to the back and see if the center of the front connecting rod is in the center of the case spilt and that the rods also have side to side play if it a lot like .020 then set the rods in the center of the movement to check the center — a lot of movement is the flywheel washers usually worn out - the tighter they were set the smallest amount of wear happens — i know but that is shop experience to get it perfect we see one out of 20 its like that

picture up any thing you do not understand and i am a couple hours difference is time from you so if your really stuck PM me for a phone number

connecting rods - knuckle / panhead / shovel - 1941 to 1973 is the long rod after that the 1974 to early 1981 in 74 inch engines is a different rod - then the first evo rod came along then it changed again

pistons — they sell on the bay cheap 7 to 1 and they fit every thing to the 80 inch engine shovels - rings we have gone back to cast iron type top ring and have not been using the moly sets as the engine takes 1000 miles to brake in using them and the breather vent is leaving a trail of oil till it does - cant have that the moly was changed in its type of material used originally the cast ring in cars 50s 60s 75 thousand miles it was smoking - 70s moly they went plus 100,000 miles NOW car engines 250,000 to 350,00 you see them for sale and not smoking —

can shaft two come to mind but you need a real understanding to install and the flat side engines in pan and shovel shair the same cam but have a different rocker arm ratio so a cam A2 andrews in a pan is .470 lift - in a shovelhead head is .450 lift and they say its a bolt in - bulshit - lots at play to install one

the J andrews is almost nothing in what we would cam a cam yet it is a bolt in anything and produces a small up lift in power SMALL up lift

the other cam is a leinwebber L3S but its 400 bucks to buy and needs real finesse to make happen - hands down its the best i have used in 50 years but its pricy to use and install

 

Hey John , I was checking out the L3S cam info. ! What is "minor head work required" include? Just the spring kits recommended? No actual head machining? Also , are the aluminum retainers sufficient ?