I have not been riding the my 65 of late because the last 3 times I rolled it out, it would start right up then while idling it would die and not start again. First time it was low on gas so I figured that was the problem so just pushed it back into the garage and rode a different bike.

A week later I put a gallon in the tanks, and the bike started right up.. Go to get my gear and while warming up the bike dies and won't start. It goes back into the garage. I'm beginning to wonder something wrong with the petcock.. The pan has the stock fuel shutoff that I rebuilt with a valve needle point made out of Peek plastic. If I close the valve tightly is seals but the valve handle is small and it sticks when tryin g to open. I was thinking there was something wrong with it.

Pull the bike out again and try to start. Again it starts right up and runs for a minute or 2 then dies like out of gas. I pull the filter cap and turn on the fuel. Fuel rushes out. I push it onto the bike lifts and it sits while I work on another bike..

At this point I'm thinking carb but want to fix the fact that the fuel valve is sticky and hard to open.. I had made the first fuel **** out of stainless and found that I couldn't knurl it. The next one I made out of an old bronze boat shaft and was able to knurl.. (see pic). I want to do this just to make sure that the fuel valve was easier to control.

Next I pulled the carb. What a PITA. The loosening the throttle control wire was almost impossible with the 5 gallon tanks. I could not get a straight enough shot shot the slotted screw so ended up using a pair of small vice grips.. Get the carb loose and I can't move the car high enough to pop it out of the lower bracket. The throttle arm hits the bottom of the tank.. I finally manage to pry pop the carb bowl nut stud out of the lower bracket and get the carb off.

I pull the float bowl and find that the float had swollen just enough to stick in the bowl.. My guess is that I'd run the bike out of gas and while the bike sat the float would dry out enough to shrink and drop down. The next time I went to start the bike, the bowl would fill and float stick. This was the second carb that I had and the first I'd rebuilt and it had a coated cork type float. The one planed to use had a brass float but had an issue with the venturi leak so I simply swapped the carbs. Anyway I pulled the float bowl off the carb with the brass float and installed it.. I trimmed the bowl nut stud and added a socket head cap screw to the throttle arm so I could tighten it with a ball end allen..

Bike seems to be running fine. I'll ride it today..

 

Agree, it sounds like a fuel problem. I always use the rubber Ducky float in linkerts and haven't had any problems with swelling etc. The brass ones are ok until they develop a leak.

Paul

 

Get a Rubber Ducky float, 100% better than cork or brass. I also tap on the float bowl with the end of the Leatherman before every cold start.

Second issue, I strongly suggest you install a fuel crossover line disconnect like this one:

Motion Pro Fuel System Quick Disconnect Coupling | JPCycles.com

Makes removing the right tank only a 2 minute job, no reason to drain fuel. Just disconnect at crossover from left side, three bolts and take tank off. You can leave left side on for test and tune. When all done, put tank back on, quick disconnect might drip once, put a rag underneath. All of my bikes get one the first time the tank comes off, so much easier just leaving the gas inside. I have left one piece tanks on the bench all winter while doing modifications to the bike with gas inside. Good luck.

Test ride after installing new throttle cable. After everything was adjusted and just right, I put the tank back on.

 

Yeah, I'll get a rubber duck float. Heck I had 600 miles and 3 months on riding the bike before the float started sticking..

I'll probably run the brass on for a while.. I doubt it's a cheap India one and probably one from the mid 70s.

This might be sacrilege but what about the Drag float. Got one of those.

 

Not sure what DS supplies these days, but if it's not the rubber ducky float I'd avoid it as much as possible. I think it's a problem waiting to happen.

The quick disconnect system Architect mentioned comes with straight through or valves to stop the flow when disconnected. If you get one of those, be sure you are getting the one you want.

Paul

 

Glad to hear you solved it.

Man o man, do I like that quick disconnect valve idea. Perhaps the only thing I don’t like about my ‘60s split fuel tanks, solved!

 

The disconnect I posted is the basic white plastic. They make them black and someone makes them out of metal, Google around and you will find options. Yes they have to be the one that stops flow when disconnected. Good luck.

 

What makes it easy on that shovel is that there isn't any seat pivot used. This 65 has a bunch of the wiring going under the seat pivot.. It's a real PITA to get the nut on the tank stud.