oil leak
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 452
From: 1500 ft above sea level
oil leak
have a 51 panhead,i have a oil leak behind the primary cover.the leak appears to be to be coming fromthe motor sprocket area.i have belt drive and the primary is dry.theres no main shaft seal,so what can be my prolbem? any info would be appreciated.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 207
Likes: 1
RE: oil leak
You may have some problems with theflywheel scraper(damage due to earlier bottom end failure)or timed breather. I have found that damage to the breather bore will cause some problems with scavaging the crankcase. A little oil from that side is normal, upon start up.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 452
From: 1500 ft above sea level
RE: oil leak
thanks for the info.i removed the motor sprocket and found the oil leaking from around the shaft,the breakdown in the book shows no seal there.the oil from the oil tank seemed to be free-flowing into the crank case and filling it up. i wondering if the oil pump is not allowing the oil to stop from free flowing? any info will help. thanks ed
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 241
Likes: 1
From:
RE: oil leak
That engine was set-up for a wet clutch too and also a primary chain oiler. You need to shut off that supply to run it dry....or you will be running oil into the primary. If you still have the cast iron oil pump, it is located on the side and it's a slot head screw with a jam nut. Some were pointed like a jet screw so the oil could be regulated. In your case, you need to run it in to the seat and tighten the jam nut. The later aluminum pump has the jet screw too on the main body at the back top side. That may solve your oil 'leak' problem. And yes, you do have a main shaft seal that could be leaking engine oil but that would be rare due to the type of scavenge system that the Pan Heads have. They have almost a negative pressure in the crank cases when they are sealed up (with the timing plug in).
3rd Gear
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Florida
RE: oil leak
Its a Panhead...... It's suppose to leak.. !
But seriously I agree with the previous posts, But I also have never seen a panhead that didn't leak alilttle.. Mine does a drips abit hereand there, but I **** about it.. Alwaysretightening things, wipingit down after every ride.. Its a maintence thing..!
But seriously I agree with the previous posts, But I also have never seen a panhead that didn't leak alilttle.. Mine does a drips abit hereand there, but I **** about it.. Alwaysretightening things, wipingit down after every ride.. Its a maintence thing..!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 6
From: Forest Lake, Mn
RE: oil leak
Sorry, I've been rummaging thru my notes and things, and I'll find it, but as far as it wetsumping, if indeed it is, I have an article on that. Start out by buying 3 check ***** for the oil pump. Remove the original, and take one of the new ones, and attach it to a welding rod. If you're good with a welder, you can use that to "stick" it, if not, I use epoxy or JB Weld. Once you have that, clean the bore good where you extracted the ball check from. Now, use a "small" amount of lapping compound on the ball attached to the welding rod. Lap down the seat in the bore. Use a back and forth rotating motion with a little down pressure. Pull it out, look down in there with a good flashlight. You are looking for a complete and sort of shiny circle. If it looks non-concentric (is that a word 
) reinsert and lap some more. Once you have the seat trued and smooth, use Q tips to clean ALL the lapping compound out of the bore,insert one of the remaining new *****, reinsert spring, sit back and wait for the sump to fill. JUST KIDDING! Hopefully that will eleviate your wet sumping.I do this to every pan and shovel that rolls thru the door. Now,here's where you ask, "So Gumby, why do I buy 3 check *****?" Because if you are like Gumby, every once in a while you'll screw up that first one when you attach it to the welding rod. 
On a side note, I run BDL's in both my pan and shovel, both enclosed. Provide some sort of ventilation for the primary case. Heat build up is the worst thingfor a belt, really shortens their life span. The belt in my pan is going on 6 years, and we do ride it a lot. Good luck and keep asking. There are some really great answers here. I've been wrenching since the 60's, and still learnin'.I am **** about my pan leaking, but I don't mind a little bit, cause I hate people asking me if it is one of the "new" pans. Gumby
) reinsert and lap some more. Once you have the seat trued and smooth, use Q tips to clean ALL the lapping compound out of the bore,insert one of the remaining new *****, reinsert spring, sit back and wait for the sump to fill. JUST KIDDING! Hopefully that will eleviate your wet sumping.I do this to every pan and shovel that rolls thru the door. Now,here's where you ask, "So Gumby, why do I buy 3 check *****?" Because if you are like Gumby, every once in a while you'll screw up that first one when you attach it to the welding rod. On a side note, I run BDL's in both my pan and shovel, both enclosed. Provide some sort of ventilation for the primary case. Heat build up is the worst thingfor a belt, really shortens their life span. The belt in my pan is going on 6 years, and we do ride it a lot. Good luck and keep asking. There are some really great answers here. I've been wrenching since the 60's, and still learnin'.I am **** about my pan leaking, but I don't mind a little bit, cause I hate people asking me if it is one of the "new" pans. GumbyTrending Topics
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,854
Likes: 20
From: Eagle River WI
RE: oil leak
There should be a main shaft seal HD p/n24776-40 Tedds Cycle has them p/n 7411-2 With a belt primary I run a hose from the breather tube thru a drilled hole in the inner primary up behind the rear cylinder put a k&n 3/8 hose size and let it breath
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