oil leak
#2
#3
RE: oil leak
thanks for the info.i removed the motor sprocket and found the oil leaking from around the shaft,the breakdown in the book shows no seal there.the oil from the oil tank seemed to be free-flowing into the crank case and filling it up. i wondering if the oil pump is not allowing the oil to stop from free flowing? any info will help. thanks ed
#5
RE: oil leak
That engine was set-up for a wet clutch too and also a primary chain oiler. You need to shut off that supply to run it dry....or you will be running oil into the primary. If you still have the cast iron oil pump, it is located on the side and it's a slot head screw with a jam nut. Some were pointed like a jet screw so the oil could be regulated. In your case, you need to run it in to the seat and tighten the jam nut. The later aluminum pump has the jet screw too on the main body at the back top side. That may solve your oil 'leak' problem. And yes, you do have a main shaft seal that could be leaking engine oil but that would be rare due to the type of scavenge system that the Pan Heads have. They have almost a negative pressure in the crank cases when they are sealed up (with the timing plug in).
#6
RE: oil leak
Its a Panhead...... It's suppose to leak.. !
But seriously I agree with the previous posts, But I also have never seen a panhead that didn't leak alilttle.. Mine does a drips abit hereand there, but I **** about it.. Alwaysretightening things, wipingit down after every ride.. Its a maintence thing..!
But seriously I agree with the previous posts, But I also have never seen a panhead that didn't leak alilttle.. Mine does a drips abit hereand there, but I **** about it.. Alwaysretightening things, wipingit down after every ride.. Its a maintence thing..!
#7
RE: oil leak
Sorry, I've been rummaging thru my notes and things, and I'll find it, but as far as it wetsumping, if indeed it is, I have an article on that. Start out by buying 3 check ***** for the oil pump. Remove the original, and take one of the new ones, and attach it to a welding rod. If you're good with a welder, you can use that to "stick" it, if not, I use epoxy or JB Weld. Once you have that, clean the bore good where you extracted the ball check from. Now, use a "small" amount of lapping compound on the ball attached to the welding rod. Lap down the seat in the bore. Use a back and forth rotating motion with a little down pressure. Pull it out, look down in there with a good flashlight. You are looking for a complete and sort of shiny circle. If it looks non-concentric (is that a word ) reinsert and lap some more. Once you have the seat trued and smooth, use Q tips to clean ALL the lapping compound out of the bore,insert one of the remaining new *****, reinsert spring, sit back and wait for the sump to fill. JUST KIDDING! Hopefully that will eleviate your wet sumping.I do this to every pan and shovel that rolls thru the door. Now,here's where you ask, "So Gumby, why do I buy 3 check *****?" Because if you are like Gumby, every once in a while you'll screw up that first one when you attach it to the welding rod. On a side note, I run BDL's in both my pan and shovel, both enclosed. Provide some sort of ventilation for the primary case. Heat build up is the worst thingfor a belt, really shortens their life span. The belt in my pan is going on 6 years, and we do ride it a lot. Good luck and keep asking. There are some really great answers here. I've been wrenching since the 60's, and still learnin'.I am **** about my pan leaking, but I don't mind a little bit, cause I hate people asking me if it is one of the "new" pans. Gumby
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