Oil pump
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
I take it that you have the cam cover off so you can move the drive gear. Try loosening all the bolts and shifting the position of the pump slightly. Keep checking for binding as you tighten. When you tighten the pump tighten them in a cross pattern. The pump only has to be tightened down 45-50 inch pounds. May require more for after market pumps.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
Checking my references, they claim that the gears should protrude between .003 and .004 inches above the surface. I had this problem with a new stock Harley pump I bought. I had to go through a bunch of gaskets before I found one that was thick enough that when tightened it would not bind. I measured a mylar gasket and it was .007 so if tightened down to compress half its thickness it would still give enough clearance.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
how are you noticing that it locks up? I ask because I just put all new gaskets and seals in mine, and it had paper gaskets in when I took it apart and now it has the plastic ones... just don't want to junk my motor!!
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
When ever you disassemble the oil pump for a gasket change or any other reason you need to pull off the gear cover, pinion gear and pinion oil pump gear. You can then turn the oil pump drive gear as you tighten the pump cover. This insures that the gears are assembled properly and cover doesnt bind. I know its a pain in the ****, but if the pump seizes or a key shears you have a lot more work. You need the special socket for the left handed pinion nut, a pinion gear puller and another puller for the pinion oil pump gear. This, like I said, is a pain because you have to remove the exhaust, pushrods, cam, etc. I usually let the oil pump leak until I need to do other work.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
yeah, that really wasn't an option. Mine didnt' leak out the gasket, the seal inside was leaking, allowing the oil from the tank to fill up the crank case, which would leave about a half quart on the ground every time you started it up. I just thought i'd ask, because I really didn't feel like tearing that all apart on mine. It's a shovelhead, not a pan head, but still seems like too much to tear down for that!!
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,078
Likes: 39
From: NW Florida
yeah, that really wasn't an option. Mine didnt' leak out the gasket, the seal inside was leaking, allowing the oil from the tank to fill up the crank case, which would leave about a half quart on the ground every time you started it up. I just thought i'd ask, because I really didn't feel like tearing that all apart on mine. It's a shovelhead, not a pan head, but still seems like too much to tear down for that!!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
no, it wasn't the seat or the check ball. I tried that first, but to no avail. I had to pull the oil pump apart and found that the seal that seperates the feed pump and the scavenger pump halves was torn. I've already ran it on several occasions after I fixed it, so I know the seal was the problem.
Last edited by d_slat; Aug 21, 2008 at 09:45 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
panheadmcc, another thing you might want to try is tightening the bolts down in multiple steps. When I did mine, i first just snugged them slightly, then tightened them to 10 ft. lbs, then to 25, and then to 45. This might help from squishing the gasket where you tighten the first bolt and keep the clearance to a max.