excessive oil level in cases
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Daytona Beach Fl
excessive oil level in cases
I have some issues with my 1957 FLH and wanted to see if I could get some input / advise.
Rebuilt stock motor 50 miles on it top and bottom. I'm trying to get a handle on one bad oil leak. I've tracked it down to the front primary chain sprocket / Shaft. (Running chain no belt. ) It leaks about 2 ounces over night after it has been run and parked on the side stand ( had the outer tin off and measured it as it dripped). My conclusion this far is too much oil is sitting in the bottom of the cases and leaking out the shaft while on the side stand. After it stops leaking out I’ve pulled the small drain plug on the bottom of the left case and drain every thing out of the bottom. --- I’m collecting and measuring around 10 more ounces here.
My first thought was the check valve. – disassembled and did a visual inspection and cleaning also took out tappet screen but nothing stood out as being wrong. Funny thing nothing is being puked out the overflow tube – absolutely nothing. Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t I get blow by out the overflow tube if it was the check valve.
I’ve confirmed i am getting oil to return to the tank.
I’m thinking it could only be 4 things;
- bad oil pump on scavenger side
- Debris or gasket blocking something in the oil pump or passage way
- Breather valve timing problem or obstruction
- Bad seat in check valve
Rebuilt stock motor 50 miles on it top and bottom. I'm trying to get a handle on one bad oil leak. I've tracked it down to the front primary chain sprocket / Shaft. (Running chain no belt. ) It leaks about 2 ounces over night after it has been run and parked on the side stand ( had the outer tin off and measured it as it dripped). My conclusion this far is too much oil is sitting in the bottom of the cases and leaking out the shaft while on the side stand. After it stops leaking out I’ve pulled the small drain plug on the bottom of the left case and drain every thing out of the bottom. --- I’m collecting and measuring around 10 more ounces here.
My first thought was the check valve. – disassembled and did a visual inspection and cleaning also took out tappet screen but nothing stood out as being wrong. Funny thing nothing is being puked out the overflow tube – absolutely nothing. Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t I get blow by out the overflow tube if it was the check valve.
I’ve confirmed i am getting oil to return to the tank.
I’m thinking it could only be 4 things;
- bad oil pump on scavenger side
- Debris or gasket blocking something in the oil pump or passage way
- Breather valve timing problem or obstruction
- Bad seat in check valve
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Not sure about your old Harley but just because they are considered dry sump does not mean there is not oil in and around the crank. Modern TCs have about 20 oz or so running in the crank area being added to and drawn off by the two stage oil pump. On the TCs, it's used for inner cam bearings lubrication. This level is maintained by the return side of the oil pump being about 1 1/2" off the cam galley floor. Going to take an expert like Spanner from NZ to chime in here. I would think you should have shaft seals that may need to be replaced.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 11:06 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 12,878
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From: la la land jerzey
I have some issues with my 1957 FLH and wanted to see if I could get some input / advise.
Rebuilt stock motor 50 miles on it top and bottom. I'm trying to get a handle on one bad oil leak. I've tracked it down to the front primary chain sprocket / Shaft. (Running chain no belt. ) It leaks about 2 ounces over night after it has been run and parked on the side stand ( had the outer tin off and measured it as it dripped). My conclusion this far is too m
uch oil is sitting in the bottom of the cases and leaking out the shaft while on the side stand. After it stops leaking out I’ve pulled the small drain plug on the bottom of the left case and drain every thing out of the bottom. --- I’m collecting and measuring around 10 more ounces here.
My first thought was the check valve. – disassembled and did a visual inspection and cleaning also took out tappet screen but nothing stood out as being wrong. Funny thing nothing is being puked out the overflow tube – absolutely nothing. Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t I get blow by out the overflow tube if it was the check valve
I’ve confirmed i am getting oil to return to the tank.
I’m thinking it could only be 4 things;
- bad oil pump on scavenger side
- Debris or gasket blocking something in the oil pump or passage way
- Breather valve timing problem or obstruction
- Bad seat in check valve
Rebuilt stock motor 50 miles on it top and bottom. I'm trying to get a handle on one bad oil leak. I've tracked it down to the front primary chain sprocket / Shaft. (Running chain no belt. ) It leaks about 2 ounces over night after it has been run and parked on the side stand ( had the outer tin off and measured it as it dripped). My conclusion this far is too m
uch oil is sitting in the bottom of the cases and leaking out the shaft while on the side stand. After it stops leaking out I’ve pulled the small drain plug on the bottom of the left case and drain every thing out of the bottom. --- I’m collecting and measuring around 10 more ounces here.
My first thought was the check valve. – disassembled and did a visual inspection and cleaning also took out tappet screen but nothing stood out as being wrong. Funny thing nothing is being puked out the overflow tube – absolutely nothing. Correct me if I’m wrong but wouldn’t I get blow by out the overflow tube if it was the check valve
I’ve confirmed i am getting oil to return to the tank.
I’m thinking it could only be 4 things;
- bad oil pump on scavenger side
- Debris or gasket blocking something in the oil pump or passage way
- Breather valve timing problem or obstruction
- Bad seat in check valve
the leak -- the early Pans they used a felt type seal that did almost nothing / it is wedged in betweeen the slot in the nut with the ( tool pin holes ) that is screwed into the sprocket shaft housing -- than they came out with a real seal to stop just what you have i will tomorrow look up the numbers if no one else chimes in with them tonight,
the new seal is rubber and if i remember correctly it requires a different spacer that is supplied for the seal
NOW i have also seen the splines leak oil as well ( between the sprocket gear and the sprocket shaft and or the big nut / you might want to when you remove it / glue it up at the same time -- and it needs to be tight hand wrenches just wont do it -- johnjzjz
Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
From: East Texas
Crank shaft leak
Iv'e got an old 47 kuck/pan and there is an updated seal to cure your problem, my crank shaft is a taper shaft but spline shafts at the case are the same. I got mine from J.P. cycles Cat. I think James Gaskets brand if it matters. Remember though, old harleys don't leak ,they mark their spot.
Keep the old iron running. Killer
Keep the old iron running. Killer
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,593
Likes: 6,435
From: Honah Lee
Iv'e got an old 47 kuck/pan and there is an updated seal to cure your problem, my crank shaft is a taper shaft but spline shafts at the case are the same. I got mine from J.P. cycles Cat. I think James Gaskets brand if it matters. Remember though, old harleys don't leak ,they mark their spot.
Keep the old iron running. Killer
Keep the old iron running. Killer
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