I've been following the thread from JayDee and it got me to thinking (which can be a dangerous thing)
My '48 Pan (which I've had for over 35 years) never had the timer advance connected.
The PO had installed a solid piece of steel in the left handlebar to lock the left grip.
The timer is always in the fully advanced position.
My question is: is it worth restoring the spark advance cable? I think the only parts I would need are the outer cable (I have a spare inner wire), plunger kit, and any bracket that would be required to hold the cable in place.
Part of me wants to restore it to the original but the bike has always started and ran well so I also think "if it's not broke, don't fix it."
I'm interested in the feed back from the brain trust.

 

My 64 FL duoglide is 100% stock (except for the seat-recovered) and while I get a kick out of retarding the timing every once in while to get the infamous Harley lope, which really isn't good for the lower end....if it's working for you now on startups and such fully advanced...leave well enough alone. Nothing like a easy to start Pan..

 

as a kid riding pans as choppers we never had the dist move, if it has not hurt it than your doing good leave it alone, it likes it why make it something else -- johnjzjz

 

Thanks for the responses and I'll take your advice and leave well enough alone. Besides, it 's always easier to do nothing.

 

Very nice bike BTW

 

Thank you!!!

 

this is the style i build in the shop - we also do national AMCA champions

 

If you want to restore it to original condition I say do it. Is the cable still connected to the circuit breaker? If you want to leave it as is. You can disconnect the cable from breaker and use a spring to hold it in full advance position. Then pull circuit breaker to retard by hand for start. That is how it was done in the old days.

 

we had a dobie named Sadie 14 years - father was satin and mother was lady so we called her sadie - sweet pup

 

No, there is no cable and that would be the only somewhat difficult task to thread the cable through the bars. I've heard of adding a spring as you suggested. Thanks for your input Old96, but I think I'll leave well enough alone. It's worked well for many years.