powder coat
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,727
Likes: 3,071
From: Brighton, MI
Agreed and in addition, the larger and thicker the item, the more time to reach optimal temp. Paying close attention to temperatures (monitoring) with thermometers AND a temp sensing gun to check various areas of item being baked.
Just closer attention to actual temps of the specific item when they get larger/thicker.
Just closer attention to actual temps of the specific item when they get larger/thicker.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1,006
powder coat is a pretty good animal to play with, in ways more forgiving than paint.
on large parts, you can cure in sections, you can reflow to correct issues and such.
sometimes on a heavy/thick part, you possibly will not get core to temp, main thing is that the surface temps gets high enough to cross link the polymers. on parts like this, i will let the part stay until the oven cools down.
most all surfaces will be porous so the temp is critical so the powder flows into them, i like media blast to enhance this.
it is a learning curve for sure.
on large parts, you can cure in sections, you can reflow to correct issues and such.
sometimes on a heavy/thick part, you possibly will not get core to temp, main thing is that the surface temps gets high enough to cross link the polymers. on parts like this, i will let the part stay until the oven cools down.
most all surfaces will be porous so the temp is critical so the powder flows into them, i like media blast to enhance this.
it is a learning curve for sure.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 113
Likes: 82
From: Southwest Michigan
Your oven size is you limitation. Yout powder will have curing instructions. 390 for 10 minutes or if it is a low cure it could be 325 for 10 minutes. set your oven to 390, place part in the oven. Once it reaches 390 start your 10 minute timer. After 10 minutes remove and let it cool naturally. Don't try to speed up cooling with cold water for blowing air on it.
Surface prep, wash the part down, get all oil and solvents off the part. You can preheat the part in the oven to get it completly dry. Let it cool to room temperature before applying powder, limit touching the part when it is completly degreased and clean.
Application, ground the part to the gun and evenly apply the powder to all desired surfaces. Special heat tape is available to mask off any area you don't want powder. You can get too much powder in an area and when it cures it will pool up. You can also get what is called the faraday effect on inside corners where the staic electrical draw will not allow good coverage. Your gun might have a setting to deal with this.
Hanging system, you might want to develope a way to suspend or hang the part with wire to get it completly covered.
I am in Southwest Michigan, I can powder coat most things if needed.
Surface prep, wash the part down, get all oil and solvents off the part. You can preheat the part in the oven to get it completly dry. Let it cool to room temperature before applying powder, limit touching the part when it is completly degreased and clean.
Application, ground the part to the gun and evenly apply the powder to all desired surfaces. Special heat tape is available to mask off any area you don't want powder. You can get too much powder in an area and when it cures it will pool up. You can also get what is called the faraday effect on inside corners where the staic electrical draw will not allow good coverage. Your gun might have a setting to deal with this.
Hanging system, you might want to develope a way to suspend or hang the part with wire to get it completly covered.
I am in Southwest Michigan, I can powder coat most things if needed.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 566
From: Indiana
single best free mod you can do is properly ground your work station. I have a solid copper wire run to a grounding rod outside my shop. limited only by your oven. proper prep is crucial just like paint. powder coated extensively for years.
PM with any questions
PM with any questions
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Road Master
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 566
From: Indiana
No. In my spray booth I have a 1/2" Copper grounding rod I hang parts from. That rod has a solid copper wire going to a grounding rod outside.
Sorry, I think I realized what's happened here. If you are using something like an Eastwood gun has it ground running back to the control unit. Going up a level or two of gun the grounding is done separately
Sorry, I think I realized what's happened here. If you are using something like an Eastwood gun has it ground running back to the control unit. Going up a level or two of gun the grounding is done separately
Last edited by 2wheelwanderer; Jan 2, 2026 at 04:00 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,071
Likes: 1,006
russet or yam
there has to be a potential diff
aka a common ground so your booth is using the earth ground separate from your gun power supply that is tied to via the electrical grid of the building,
although not a common issue, but, electrical hash, aka, spikes can effect the quality of the finished powderBy running a wire from the controller’s ground lug directly to the external rod, you bypass the building's electrical noise. This results in a much steadier kV output and better Faraday cage penetration.
there has to be a potential diff
aka a common ground so your booth is using the earth ground separate from your gun power supply that is tied to via the electrical grid of the building,
although not a common issue, but, electrical hash, aka, spikes can effect the quality of the finished powderBy running a wire from the controller’s ground lug directly to the external rod, you bypass the building's electrical noise. This results in a much steadier kV output and better Faraday cage penetration.
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