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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/ClutchFind answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.
So I just recently installed some cams in my 2015 ultra (20k mikes). I immediately noticed clutch slippage when on the throttle above 3k rpm. So I'm looking from pros and cons of each setup.
I thought about installing Alto Carbonite clutch kit and a barnett spring pressure plate. Then I ran across the AIM/HD variable pressure plate, and thought I could leave the original oem clutch pack and just install the variable pressure plate to stop slippage. Give me feedback, pros and cons of each.
thanks in advance
I'll admit that I've not run an E1 kit but I have don't care for the +1 kits in general. The problem is that they can drag and make neutral harder to find if the kit uses the damping spring. If no damping spring, they are better at finding neutral but the fiction zone gets smaller and clutch can be a little grabby. On a big bike like an Ultra, I like a good fiction zone.
I was happy with the HD SE clutch and diagphram sling on my 103 TriGlide with 255 cams. Yeah, the 255 cans were not the most powerful, but with the extra weight of the TriGlide, the stock would slip and chatter.
Thanks for the replies, I ended up buying SE performance clutch kit and a new pressure plate( at the advise of my indy). I had points on my HD credit card which covered most of the cost. So , I have a new project tomorrow.
Thanks for the replies, I ended up buying SE performance clutch kit and a new pressure plate( at the advise of my indy). I had points on my HD credit card which covered most of the cost. So , I have a new project tomorrow.
Nothing wrong with that choice. I'm sure it will serve you well.
Originally Posted by Max Headflow
I'll admit that I've not run an E1 kit but I have don't care for the +1 kits in general. The problem is that they can drag and make neutral harder to find if the kit uses the damping spring. If no damping spring, they are better at finding neutral but the fiction zone gets smaller and clutch can be a little grabby. On a big bike like an Ultra, I like a good fiction zone.
These were/are popular in the sporties where the spring(grenade) plate was known to grenade causing all sorts of damage. The problem is the brass rivets letting loose. I'll admit they can be grabby tho but I like grabby. Maybe not ideal for slow speed maneuvering either.
Last edited by 60Gunner; Jan 10, 2021 at 11:15 AM.
I'll admit that I've not run an E1 kit but I have don't care for the +1 kits in general. The problem is that they can drag and make neutral harder to find if the kit uses the damping spring. If no damping spring, they are better at finding neutral but the fiction zone gets smaller and clutch can be a little grabby. On a big bike like an Ultra, I like a good fiction zone.
Hey Max, I'm glad you mentioned this... I just finished installing new Barnett HE clutch cable and Energy 1 extra plate kit with the 15% stronger spring in my evo softail, and now my friction zone is TINY and all in the last bit of travel before the lever is fully released? Adjusted as per the std clutch adjustment procedure with 1/2 a turn out at the clutch pushrod, and 1/8" play at lever.
I'm used to the clutch engaging fairly soon after I start releasing the lever from the grip - or at least half way out - and having a nice size friction zone for a another shift.
Any ideas on how I can improve my set up without buying another new clutch pack?
Thanks
Thanks for the replies, I ended up buying SE performance clutch kit and a new pressure plate( at the advise of my indy). I had points on my HD credit card which covered most of the cost. So , I have a new project tomorrow.
hi, can I ask when you say "pressure plate" are you referring to the clutch diaphragm spring? Or something different? Thanks
Hey Max, I'm glad you mentioned this... I just finished installing new Barnett HE clutch cable and Energy 1 extra plate kit with the 15% stronger spring in my evo softail, and now my friction zone is TINY and all in the last bit of travel before the lever is fully released? Adjusted as per the std clutch adjustment procedure with 1/2 a turn out at the clutch pushrod, and 1/8" play at lever.
I'm used to the clutch engaging fairly soon after I start releasing the lever from the grip - or at least half way out - and having a nice size friction zone for a another shift.
Any ideas on how I can improve my set up without buying another new clutch pack?
Thanks
Assuming you have a 1996 clutch, only easy thing you can do is to add more play at the lever. Friction zone will still be the same width but clutch will grab earlier. Another option would be to use different ramps in the clutch release mechanism but I've really not messed with pre98 clutches other than a rebuild with stock style parts.
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