Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch Find answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.

2016 Ultra Classic

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Old Jan 14, 2022 | 05:56 PM
  #1  
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Default 2016 Ultra Classic

So, today I decided to flush my brakes and clutch. It is long overdue.
I bought a MityVac. Both front brakes were painless. The rear brake was painless.
The clutch however, I don't know what is going on. Fluid will NOT come out and I cranked the pressure to 25.
I made sure the bleeder valve was WAY open (2 full rotations). Something is wrong.
Please note, the clutch works beautifully, no problems at all.
I can not get the DOT4 fluid to come out.
Is there a plug in the line?
What could be the problem?
What is most likely the case?
Any ideas would be most welcome.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2022 | 09:15 AM
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If you do not have a owners manual for working on the bike that would be a good first start. Check the procedure steps for the clutch. You may need to be connected to a computer system to pull fluids thru system. Just like bikes with the abs system, you'll need the computer hook up to open up any valves to allow fluid to flow.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2022 | 11:04 AM
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Does it bleed with the traditional pump, pump hold method?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2022 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by WESeib
So, today I decided to flush my brakes...
I bought a MityVac. Both front brakes were painless. The rear brake was painless.
does the bike have ABS? if so, dig into the forum search on that.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2022 | 02:31 PM
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The clutch needs to be left along if using a vacuum bleeder. Otherwise you would pump the lever and break the bleeder loose to flush.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2022 | 11:27 AM
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I agree with the comment above, try using the clutch lever. When I flushed mine that's how I did it and had no problem reaching the bleeder wrench and leaver at the same time.

If the lever won't push fluid out with the bleeder opened, the bleeder valve may be blocked by something. If the fluid is extremely dirty, I've see where the small hole that is blocked off when the valve is closed was filled with solidified or moisture in the brake fluid over time. If that is the case, you will need to remove the bleeder valve and clean it with a small wire and compressed air. If the bleeder is rusted from moisture in the fluid I'd replace it (the bleeder valve).

As a friendly reminder, use DOT4 brake fluid from an unopened contained to avoid contamination. An opened container of brake fluid should be discarded and not used if it's 1 year or more older as it will absorb moisture once the seal is broken on the container. Personally, I recycle fluid in an opened container after about 6 months. And, DOT4 brake fluid will damage painted surfaces so cover your painted parts accordingly.

Paul
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by leachman
If you do not have a owners manual for working on the bike that would be a good first start. Check the procedure steps for the clutch. You may need to be connected to a computer system to pull fluids thru system. Just like bikes with the abs system, you'll need the computer hook up to open up any valves to allow fluid to flow.
The clutch has nothing to do with the ABS system
 
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by leachman
If you do not have a owners manual for working on the bike that would be a good first start. Check the procedure steps for the clutch. You may need to be connected to a computer system to pull fluids thru system. Just like bikes with the abs system, you'll need the computer hook up to open up any valves to allow fluid to flow.
Stop...
You don`t understand how the system works, you aren`t helping by posting incorrect information.

OP: You don`t need to connect the bike to a computer.

Try cracking open the bleeder valve and expel the fluid by pulling in the clutch lever.

I think the issue is that you simply have not turned the bleeder valve far enough to allow fluid to flow, or the connection to the mity vac is leaking air.

I have found that bleeding hydraulic systems with the mity vac is not worth the effort.

Just pump and bleed the old fashioned way.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Jan 17, 2022 at 12:43 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2022 | 05:15 PM
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So, the mystery is solved.
First: I have a service manual.
Second: The reason the ABS is special is there is a reservoir that is only moved by the activation of the ABS system.
The clutch is entirely and completely separate from that. No special activation is required for the hydraulic clutch system.

So, I was doing everything correct. I closed it up and took it to Harley and explained what was going on.
100 bucks for a diagnostic fee. They couldn't find anything wrong.
They quoted me 100 bucks to do a clutch flush.
I paid it. So, 200 bucks, and they flushed it.

I spoke with a tech and he said I had a lot of air in the line and wasn't patient enough. That, had I continued with the Mityvac, I would have eventually drawn fluid.
In fairness, he may be absolutely correct. I only drew for about 15 seconds and then wondered why I wasn't getting anything. I asked him how air got into the line, because I haven't opened it up. He laughed and said, they're known for it.

Anyway, thanks for the responses y'all. I appreciate it.
 
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