Clutch Adjustment Success!
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2005
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Clutch Adjustment Success!
I've adjusted the clutch on my 97" DWGI a dozen times "by the book" but never was able to get rid of the heavy clunk/grind from N to 1st. Found TCSTD's post "Clutch Adjustment the Easy Way" and decided to give that a try.
Wow.
The shift from N to 1st (as welll as the other 4) is now more of a "click" than a "clunk", and when I hit it just right sometimes the shift is barely audible at all.
Happy, Happy, Happy.
Islander
Wow.
The shift from N to 1st (as welll as the other 4) is now more of a "click" than a "clunk", and when I hit it just right sometimes the shift is barely audible at all.
Happy, Happy, Happy.
Islander
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
Islander
I'm having the same problem with the "clunk" N to 1rst gear. So this procedure really worked?
I'm confussed with the "hold slight tension". Do I take the slack out of the cable, squeeze it until it touches the handle bar, adust it until it forces itself away from the handle bar and then back off 1/2 turn?
Rusty
I'm having the same problem with the "clunk" N to 1rst gear. So this procedure really worked?
I'm confussed with the "hold slight tension". Do I take the slack out of the cable, squeeze it until it touches the handle bar, adust it until it forces itself away from the handle bar and then back off 1/2 turn?
Rusty
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Joined: May 2005
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
You collapse the adjuster and hold slight tension on the clutch handle to pull it up to the bars, then do the adjustment, you'll feel the handle moving away from the bar as you adjust the clutch.
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Tourer
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
ORIGINAL: Rusty
Islander
I'm having the same problem with the "clunk" N to 1rst gear. So this procedure really worked?
I'm confussed with the "hold slight tension". Do I take the slack out of the cable, squeeze it until it touches the handle bar, adust it until it forces itself away from the handle bar and then back off 1/2 turn?
Rusty
Islander
I'm having the same problem with the "clunk" N to 1rst gear. So this procedure really worked?
I'm confussed with the "hold slight tension". Do I take the slack out of the cable, squeeze it until it touches the handle bar, adust it until it forces itself away from the handle bar and then back off 1/2 turn?
Rusty
Yup. What TCSTD said.
I collapsed the adjuster on the cable, then pulled the lever all the way to the grip. While holding it there I screwed the clutch adjuster screw in and out and paid close attention to when and how much the clutch lever moved off the grip.
Once I found the sweet spot where the level ***just*** moved off the grip, I backed the adjuster screw off another 1/2 turn (I assume that's allowing for heat expanstion?) and tightened the adjuster locking nut. I then adjusted the cable to between 1/16"~1/8" freeplay in the lever.
Clutch action is smooth and accurate. Trans is shifting smoother than it ever has.
I also drained the Syn3 out of the primary and replaced it with dino 20w/50 today. That has made a huge difference in clutch operation, too. Wow.
Good luck!
Jim
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
Thanks for the feedback; I'll try it tonight if my wife will leave me alone long enough.
(It’s not what you think; I should say get out of the "honey do's" long enough. I only get "lucky" on my birthday and that's in September).
You mentioned swapping out the Syn3. You know it wasn't until I did my 1000-mile oil change from break-in oil to the Syn3 that I started having problems. It's okay to run Syn3 in my engine and tranny and use 20-50 in my primary (as long as I remember it's there)?
After draining the Syn3 out, having some residue synthetics all right to blend with the 20-50? It won't cause any problems will it?
Rusty
(It’s not what you think; I should say get out of the "honey do's" long enough. I only get "lucky" on my birthday and that's in September).
You mentioned swapping out the Syn3. You know it wasn't until I did my 1000-mile oil change from break-in oil to the Syn3 that I started having problems. It's okay to run Syn3 in my engine and tranny and use 20-50 in my primary (as long as I remember it's there)?
After draining the Syn3 out, having some residue synthetics all right to blend with the 20-50? It won't cause any problems will it?
Rusty
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Tourer
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
Hi, Rusty.
I don't think the small residual synthetic left in the primary will affect the dino 20w/50 going in. Just be sure to ride the bike to warm it up before you drain the primary.
I have dino 20w/50 in my primary since this is a tropical island and its always warm. If you're in a winter environment, you might want a little less viscosity in cold weather and go with 10w/40. I'm not sure there's a big difference either way as far as the primary is concerned.
I still have SYN3 in my crankcase (sigh). Mobil doesn't have Mobil 1 V-Twin on the island. I'm having them order me a case and when it arrives, I'll finally be "SYN3-free"..hehehe
I have Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w/90 Gear Lube in my trans.
Cheers!
Jim
I don't think the small residual synthetic left in the primary will affect the dino 20w/50 going in. Just be sure to ride the bike to warm it up before you drain the primary.
I have dino 20w/50 in my primary since this is a tropical island and its always warm. If you're in a winter environment, you might want a little less viscosity in cold weather and go with 10w/40. I'm not sure there's a big difference either way as far as the primary is concerned.
I still have SYN3 in my crankcase (sigh). Mobil doesn't have Mobil 1 V-Twin on the island. I'm having them order me a case and when it arrives, I'll finally be "SYN3-free"..hehehe
I have Mobil 1 Synthetic 75w/90 Gear Lube in my trans.
Cheers!
Jim
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RE: Clutch Adjustment Success!
1) Induce maximum slack in the cable by loosening the jam nut then the adjusting nut (1/2" and 9/16" wrenches) inside the rubber boot on the cable.
2) If you need to lube the cable, remove the cable end from the lever by removing the snap ring, and pushing the retaining pin up through the lever bracket.
3) Remove the clutch inspection cover, using a “star pattern” on the five retaining bolts. Note which hole on the cover is to the top and replace it the same way (the cover eventually takes the shape of the primary cover, so this prevents leaks).
4) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch.
5) Using an Allen wrench, loosen the clutch adjusting screw, which is the center of the threaded rod inside the nut.
6) This is the critical step. Holding the Allen wrench between your thumb and forefinger, and tighten it (turn it clockwise) just to the point that resistance is felt. From that point, turn it counterclockwise ½ to 1 turn (1/2 for most riders is good, ¾ if you use the clutch a lot for control at low speeds, a full turn I use only for police bikes).
7) Making sure to hold the Allen wrench at that position, tighten the clutch nut. If you have a crow’s foot, you can torque it to spec –12 ft-lbs. – if not just get it good and snug. An offset wrench is best, but you can use a regular open end wrench. However, if you do, be careful not to let it slip off the nut, since it will be at an angle to clear the primary cover.
8) Replace the clutch cover, and gasket, tightening in a star pattern to the right torque (84-108 inch/pounds or 10 n/m).
9) If you removed the cable end from the lever replace it, and tighten the cable. Squeeze the lever three times to re-set the ball and ramp mechanism in the release. Then fine tune your cable adjustment, so the free-play is correct. (The edge of a nickel should fit between the shoulder of the ferrule and the bracket.
2) If you need to lube the cable, remove the cable end from the lever by removing the snap ring, and pushing the retaining pin up through the lever bracket.
3) Remove the clutch inspection cover, using a “star pattern” on the five retaining bolts. Note which hole on the cover is to the top and replace it the same way (the cover eventually takes the shape of the primary cover, so this prevents leaks).
4) Loosen the 11/16” nut in the center of the clutch.
5) Using an Allen wrench, loosen the clutch adjusting screw, which is the center of the threaded rod inside the nut.
6) This is the critical step. Holding the Allen wrench between your thumb and forefinger, and tighten it (turn it clockwise) just to the point that resistance is felt. From that point, turn it counterclockwise ½ to 1 turn (1/2 for most riders is good, ¾ if you use the clutch a lot for control at low speeds, a full turn I use only for police bikes).
7) Making sure to hold the Allen wrench at that position, tighten the clutch nut. If you have a crow’s foot, you can torque it to spec –12 ft-lbs. – if not just get it good and snug. An offset wrench is best, but you can use a regular open end wrench. However, if you do, be careful not to let it slip off the nut, since it will be at an angle to clear the primary cover.
8) Replace the clutch cover, and gasket, tightening in a star pattern to the right torque (84-108 inch/pounds or 10 n/m).
9) If you removed the cable end from the lever replace it, and tighten the cable. Squeeze the lever three times to re-set the ball and ramp mechanism in the release. Then fine tune your cable adjustment, so the free-play is correct. (The edge of a nickel should fit between the shoulder of the ferrule and the bracket.