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Screamin Eagle Big Twin Compensator

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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 02:14 PM
  #161  
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1947 Knuckle
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Originally Posted by redrazor
Ron:

I guess you must mean on the top side, right? That's where all the chain bounce seems to be on the video. There shouldn't be any slapping on the bottom since the tensioner keeps the chain pretty well close to the sprockets.
I would tend to agree with you redrazor, if I would not have seen it with my own eyes.I pulled the outer primary cover off at 1000 miles on my 07 FLHX .Just like Ron said ,there was a chain rubbing mark on the bottom of the inner cover at the first casting ridge between the sprocket and the tensioner, so I ground it down about .062".I suspect this rubbing may have happened at initial startup when the tensioner was maybe loose, because after the tensioner is self adjusted the chain is too tight to go down that far.Mike.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 03:43 PM
  #162  
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Nope , I meant the bottom between the sprocket and adjuster. Not in the inner primary, but on the outer in that area. In some load conditions the chain will buldge down from the shoe resistance, or the sharp angle causing rotational drag at that point between the two. I chit you not. I also ground off about 1/16" on the lug for clearance. Last time it was appart, there were no scuff marks from the links. Keep in mind that I have the longer softail primary so spacings will be a little different but definately look at the outer for marks. The outer half of the chain is in that area.
Ron
 

Last edited by rbabos; Jan 21, 2009 at 03:48 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 06:01 PM
  #163  
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1947 Knuckle
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Originally Posted by rbabos
Nope , I meant the bottom between the sprocket and adjuster. Not in the inner primary, but on the outer in that area. In some load conditions the chain will buldge down from the shoe resistance, or the sharp angle causing rotational drag at that point between the two. I chit you not. I also ground off about 1/16" on the lug for clearance. Last time it was appart, there were no scuff marks from the links. Keep in mind that I have the longer softail primary so spacings will be a little different but definately look at the outer for marks. The outer half of the chain is in that area.
Ron
Ron, on my touring primary which is different from yours, the marks were on the bottom of the inner casing between the sprocket and tensioner.The chain does not stick out enough to rub outer casing.Mike.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2009 | 06:28 PM
  #164  
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Interesting. The depth is different as well as the length. On the softail the primary joint between inner and outer is about centerline of the chain. Seems like they both will react the same between the sprocket and tensioner in certain conditions, however. I suspect it's in the decel/ accel transitions when the chain changes tension from top to bottom and back again. During decel the bias spring in the shoe will lower the bottom of the chain in that area which could be causing the rub. Who knows? Due to the possibly increased travel in the new wedge adjuster in decel, it will definately be worth looking at the clearances by doing a reverse load on the system before buttoning up the outer.
Ron
 

Last edited by rbabos; Jan 21, 2009 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:41 AM
  #165  
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Talking You guys are great!

I used to think all the really hi-tech wrenches were on the old V-rod Forum that my friend, Max administered for years. Some of those guys were remarkable at addressing little bothersome problems. I got pretty good myself on that new style motor and chassis before I sold the bike and moved on to a more comfortable/pleasurable ride (my '07 FLHX)

But you guys are just as sharp; if not even more so; I we all appreciate the good research and input you provide.

I've been turning wrenches (mostly on trucks and equipment) for over 45 years now; and I'm still learning every day ........ some by doing, and some by listening and learning from others like yourselves.

I may get up the gumption to take the darned cover off again soon, now that the rains are here to stay for a while.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work.

redrazor
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:26 AM
  #166  
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To those who have done it, when you broke the compensator sprocket nut free did you have to use heat to break the red loctite? Or will it just come loose with a breaker bar? I also have an impact wrench. Just want a little advice about the best way to get it off. Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #167  
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Just use a johnson bar on the bolt and it will come off no problem. Stock loctite isn't red by the way. It's weaker. Make up a flat bar to jam the two sprockets and you won't have any problems. Don't use an impact wrench on it as it won't be anywhere as tight as you think it is.
Ron
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 02:44 PM
  #168  
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Talking What he said!

Originally Posted by rbabos
it won't be anywhere as tight as you think it is.
Ron

I was surprised, also as to how easy it came loose!

good luck,

redrazor
 
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #169  
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Thanks for the tips guys. I think the book says to torque it to 140 ft lbs. or so, and use red locktite. Figured it might be a beyatch. Glad to hear it aint.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 11:22 AM
  #170  
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Hey Ron, I had some surgery and haven’t been able to ride or spend time on the Forum in several months. I’ve only been able to put about 500 miles on my bike since doing the 103 build and SE comp, but the noise I mentioned earlier is definitely from the forged pistons. When the engine gets up to normal operating temperature the noise is almost gone. So far, I’m very happy with the driveline improvements I’ve noticed with the SE comp. I can't believe this thread is still alive.
Mike
 
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