Screamin Eagle Big Twin Compensator
Novice
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
redrazor,
I was having the same issue on my 07 RK that sounded like what you have, so with only two months of warnnty left I took it into the dealer. I told them where the noise was coming from and right away they were talking about the compensator. After reading this thread I mentioned about the SE Compensator and they stated if the old one is bad they would upgrade it for the price differance. Come to find out the original was bad and need to be replaced so for $50 I had them install the SE Compensator. Should get the bike back Tuesday so we will see what the differance is. Thanks for the thread, if I didn't come across this I might be back with the original compensator!!!!!!
I was having the same issue on my 07 RK that sounded like what you have, so with only two months of warnnty left I took it into the dealer. I told them where the noise was coming from and right away they were talking about the compensator. After reading this thread I mentioned about the SE Compensator and they stated if the old one is bad they would upgrade it for the price differance. Come to find out the original was bad and need to be replaced so for $50 I had them install the SE Compensator. Should get the bike back Tuesday so we will see what the differance is. Thanks for the thread, if I didn't come across this I might be back with the original compensator!!!!!!
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
I'd like to point out to the do it yourselfers a couple of things that I've run across with both comps. Before final install of this unit, put the extension shaft on the crank and snug the bolt up. Take all that crap off the bolt first because you should use red loctite anyway. With the extension shaft snugged up take a dial indicator and run it on the machined area for the sprocket. I have found as much as .010 difference depending on where you install it on the crank. Find the spot of least runout and index it with a paint mark for future removal and install. Things are not always as straight as they appear.
This however is typical of any machined part in every day life. What the goal here is to have the sprocket running as true as possible. Good practice also requires the spokes and cam to be marked as well. These break in from rubbing together and putting them in a different spot in the future is not a good idea. A very ligh coating of never seize where the spokes and cam contact for initial break in would be good as well. Only a smear, as you don't want too much in the oil for the clutch. The initial 100 lb torque and 360 release is important to burnish off any high spots in the thread and head of the bolt, followed with the 140 lb final torque with loctite.
Ron
This however is typical of any machined part in every day life. What the goal here is to have the sprocket running as true as possible. Good practice also requires the spokes and cam to be marked as well. These break in from rubbing together and putting them in a different spot in the future is not a good idea. A very ligh coating of never seize where the spokes and cam contact for initial break in would be good as well. Only a smear, as you don't want too much in the oil for the clutch. The initial 100 lb torque and 360 release is important to burnish off any high spots in the thread and head of the bolt, followed with the 140 lb final torque with loctite.Ron
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Pleasant Hill, CA
I guess I'll be one of the "do-it-yourselfers"
Trubec:
I wish I'd read your post before I ordered and paid ($199) for a new SE Comp Sprocket to be sent out from Hale's HD in Ohio. I just figured that the dealer wouldn't put the new one in; just retorque the old one. Maybe I could get them to eat the labor if I supply the part(?)
Actually, I almost always like doing it myself better. So ....... I want to say a big Thank You to rbabos for all the in-depth directions and information he's provided us through this thread.
The new one should be here in a few days, and I'm going to take the old one off tomorrow or the next day, I guess. I'll be sure to use the tips rbabos suggested in the install project.
Thanks again to all ahead of me on this one, and I'll keep you posted.
good luck,
redrazor
I wish I'd read your post before I ordered and paid ($199) for a new SE Comp Sprocket to be sent out from Hale's HD in Ohio. I just figured that the dealer wouldn't put the new one in; just retorque the old one. Maybe I could get them to eat the labor if I supply the part(?)
Actually, I almost always like doing it myself better. So ....... I want to say a big Thank You to rbabos for all the in-depth directions and information he's provided us through this thread.
The new one should be here in a few days, and I'm going to take the old one off tomorrow or the next day, I guess. I'll be sure to use the tips rbabos suggested in the install project.
Thanks again to all ahead of me on this one, and I'll keep you posted.
good luck,
redrazor
Novice
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
redrazor
If the bike is stil under warranty I would take it down to the dealer and see if this is the issue and if it is I would think they would install the SE Compensator with the price differance and return the one you purchased. This way you will pay less overall and they will pay the labor and most of the cost of the part. I will be picking up the bike Friday and was told today total cost is $51.
I would normally take this task on myself but with only two months left on warranty and the first time I have had to bring the bike in with 28K on it I thought why not.
If the bike is stil under warranty I would take it down to the dealer and see if this is the issue and if it is I would think they would install the SE Compensator with the price differance and return the one you purchased. This way you will pay less overall and they will pay the labor and most of the cost of the part. I will be picking up the bike Friday and was told today total cost is $51.
I would normally take this task on myself but with only two months left on warranty and the first time I have had to bring the bike in with 28K on it I thought why not.
Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
I've got about 300 kilometers on the comp now and it works well. Every start is quiet, and it does what it's suppose to do, compensate. However one thing I have now that I didn't have as much of before is vibration, as in buzz. This maybe due to the POS crank I have that has close to .010 runout on the sprocket shaft of the engine. These springs are heavy and the centering is not 100% on the extension shaft so there is some imbalance in them. Having a straight crank, this alone may not amount to much, but between the runout and heavy discs, it sucks to be me 
. Not terrible, but more than I had before.
Ron
. Not terrible, but more than I had before.Ron
Thread Starter
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Advanced
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 86
Likes: 0
From: Evans, GA
Everything in the driveline is much improved, no vibration to speak of and the overall noise is much less than with the stock compensator. However, I do hear what appears to be some piston slap, under light load, between 2200 and 3000 rpms. It's also slightly more noticeable when cold. I think it's likely just the high compression forged pistons making noise because of the extra weight on top of the piston, shorter skirts, and increased tolerances. I really can't hear any noise under hard acceleration. Does anyone have any thoughts on this subject?
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 7
From: Woodstock, Ont , Can
I tend to agree on piston slap. Cold would be worse and as they heat up the expansion makes them tighter in the bore. While forged pistons are much tougher and denser they expand more than cast so the initial clearance will likely slap some. I would think at normal operating temp they should work out close to the cast for clearance and should be as quiet. Getting this clearance right is the secret, I would think.
Ron
Ron
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,303
Likes: 4
From:
I was waiting to read your runout on comp side and expect many others will have approx the same,give or take a few thousands if ever measured. Not sure if other poster here is running the IDS along with new comp,doing so may lose that noise hes hearing. When HD tried upping the stock comp tension on those touring bikes with the clatter noise,which sounded like pinging,top end noise if dynoed and standing near bike etc,light load on bike and within rpm range he posted... the noise never lessened,those that were tried were reported by owner of being worse. Could the same thing happening if using only SE comp???Could be without the help of IDS. I was hoping on losing the IDS ,mainly for the looks esp running custom wheels and that may not be the case.But will try the new SE comp along with IDS first because my bike has been extremely quiet since IDS install,it never had the startup bang some have posted.My main reason for the running the new comp is to have a wider range of operation vs stocker which seems to live on the edge.To lessen the shock load that can be transmitted to a questionable crank assy.