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Primary/Transmission/Driveline/ClutchFind answers to general powertrain, primary and transmission. Have clutch issues and need suggestions? Post them here.
Does a 3/8" to 1/2" difference between the tight spot and loose spot on the primary chain indicate a potential problem? Seems excessive.
Not with a Harley. What you are seeing is non concentric sprockets or shaft runouts on the engine or trans, plus no chain will stretch evenly throughout it's entire length. A few thou can make a ***** of a difference on how the chain feels. On my slipped crank for example I'm probably at .010 runout on the comp sprocket. Just imagine how that chain is whipping around in there and the abuse that auto tensioner is taking. The difference between 3/8-1/2" is pretty small in my world. considering what I have.
Ron
Thanks for the replies, but maybe I didn't state it well, when the tight spot is set to 5/8", the loose spot measures 1" to 1 1/8". This is on a friends bike with out the auto-tensioner. He replaced a broken tensioner shoe and within 2500 miles it was making weird noises. He wasn't sure he did every thing right, so he brought it over and we tore it down and found the second shoe cracked, the comp nut loose, which also took out the center of the rotor. He never checked the nut the first time, so we have no idea if it led to the first shoe breaking or not. I asked him about the piece of shoe that broke off and he said he never found a piece bigger than a BB. I'm thinking the piece jammed the chain and streched it. Not being a forensic detective/ mechanic I'd hate to help him put it back on the road only to have more problems down the road.
I pulled it all back apart and threaded the clutch nut back on the shaft and measured .004 run out, I then put the dial on the machined portion past the end of the threads on the crank and measured .028, now I didn't find any info in his service manual about measuring it this way, but wanted to see if run out was playing a factor in how much difference there was between the tight and loose spots in the chain. This would explain some of it, but I don't think it explains the 1/2" difference between the tight spot and loose spot measurements completely.
.028 plus the .004 when in the worst postion when they match up will do it. No wonder the shoe got smashed. Crank runout should be no more than .003 unless you believe what harley tells you which is .012 or .013 on the later ones. Even at .012 on the sprocket side it won't be a smooth running engine or chain.
Ron
I spoke with John at Darkhorse and he said the rough machined surface I was measuring to could add .008-.010 to the run out, but at .028 he didn't think it would bring it in to spec. I made a special holder for the indicator and the end of the splines measured .019, then .25" in on the splines (this is as far as I can get the indicator in and still set it perpendicular and centered to the shaft) and measured .017. I don't know if his .008-.010 was personal experience or a guess, but he was pretty much spot on. His suggestion was to pull the right side down and measure the pinion shaft.
To your original question: no. Having a portion of the chain flex up and down more than another portion of the chain relfects the normal uneven streching. However, if you are over the half way mark in the adjustment, I would look at replacement.
I had one break eons ago on a panhead and it was bad - very bad.
...gene
New primary chain did not help. Pulled right side and found .020 run out on the pinion shaft. Surface where bushing runs on crankshaft is gaulled up and bushing shows major wear and grooving. Oil pump and cam plate are still good. Must not have happened too many miles ago.
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