CVO engine issues
#1
CVO engine issues
I have a 2015 CVO Road Glide with the twin cooled 110" motor. Last spring it took at dump at 22000 miles. I had to jump through some hoops to get it fixed under the extended service plan but we got it fixed.
My question is this, does anyone have any suggestions that would help with the longevity of this motor? My HD mechanic indicated that this WILL happen again, so I am thinking of doing some upgrades that might help with the problem.
Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Stretch
My question is this, does anyone have any suggestions that would help with the longevity of this motor? My HD mechanic indicated that this WILL happen again, so I am thinking of doing some upgrades that might help with the problem.
Any suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.
Stretch
#2
#4
#5
Has the work been done yet on the motor? If already done then too late, but if not done and you want to keep it long-term, common issues that should be addressed are:
- OEM lifters are garbage. Go with S&S (standard or premium)
- head springs are too stiff and combined with stock cam (SE255) that has quick ramps, make the shitty lifters fail even faster. Change the cam out and have the head done with new springs
- Also the valve guides have been know to fail. Make sure these are changed when the heads are done
- Cranks are pressed and known to have play. consider having you crank welded and balanced or buy an S&S crank. Harley spec is 0.012" of play, which is crazy. Most builders will max should be 0.005-0.006" of play
- proper dynotune when done and you should be good to go for a long time.
What caused your motor to take a dump? Bad lifter?
- OEM lifters are garbage. Go with S&S (standard or premium)
- head springs are too stiff and combined with stock cam (SE255) that has quick ramps, make the shitty lifters fail even faster. Change the cam out and have the head done with new springs
- Also the valve guides have been know to fail. Make sure these are changed when the heads are done
- Cranks are pressed and known to have play. consider having you crank welded and balanced or buy an S&S crank. Harley spec is 0.012" of play, which is crazy. Most builders will max should be 0.005-0.006" of play
- proper dynotune when done and you should be good to go for a long time.
What caused your motor to take a dump? Bad lifter?
#6
#7
Join Date: Oct 2009
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When I upgraded my motor to a 117" Pro Race Big Bore kit.
I had my cranks worked by Dark Horse, SE Timken bearing, Conical Beehive .650 springs, AV&V Bronze valve guides, Head work by HD Street Performace, GMR Cams/Lifters, new SE Comp Sprocket, along with a hole lot of other stuff.
It's as bullet proof as I can make it, and they way it should have came from the factory!
YB
I had my cranks worked by Dark Horse, SE Timken bearing, Conical Beehive .650 springs, AV&V Bronze valve guides, Head work by HD Street Performace, GMR Cams/Lifters, new SE Comp Sprocket, along with a hole lot of other stuff.
It's as bullet proof as I can make it, and they way it should have came from the factory!
YB
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#8
Has the work been done yet on the motor? If already done then too late, but if not done and you want to keep it long-term, common issues that should be addressed are:
- OEM lifters are garbage. Go with S&S (standard or premium)
- head springs are too stiff and combined with stock cam (SE255) that has quick ramps, make the shitty lifters fail even faster. Change the cam out and have the head done with new springs
- Also the valve guides have been know to fail. Make sure these are changed when the heads are done
- Cranks are pressed and known to have play. consider having you crank welded and balanced or buy an S&S crank. Harley spec is 0.012" of play, which is crazy. Most builders will max should be 0.005-0.006" of play
- proper dynotune when done and you should be good to go for a long time.
What caused your motor to take a dump? Bad lifter?
- OEM lifters are garbage. Go with S&S (standard or premium)
- head springs are too stiff and combined with stock cam (SE255) that has quick ramps, make the shitty lifters fail even faster. Change the cam out and have the head done with new springs
- Also the valve guides have been know to fail. Make sure these are changed when the heads are done
- Cranks are pressed and known to have play. consider having you crank welded and balanced or buy an S&S crank. Harley spec is 0.012" of play, which is crazy. Most builders will max should be 0.005-0.006" of play
- proper dynotune when done and you should be good to go for a long time.
What caused your motor to take a dump? Bad lifter?
#9
so crate set up will have the same issues I mentioned above. You might as well ride it for a bit, and then if you decide to keep it, then start addressing the issues I mentioned above. Lifter failure seems to be common around 20K miles, so think about replacing around 10-15K miles to be safe.
#10