I recently picked up a 2007 CVO Ultra Classic (first year of the 110 motor with 6-speed trans). I thought I got a pretty good deal at $10k with 22k on it and needing a few things. I've seen them cheaper but only with more miles, and who knows what else they needed? Mine had a defective factory radio, which I'm told is a common occurrence for that model year ($350 for it to be refurbished and the people the dealer sent it to for refurbishing stole the integrated GPS out of it while they had it, so be careful if you ever let someone do that to yours). It also had dead air shocks (replaced with Progressive 944s for $700). Other than those two things I took care of (and adding a quick-release kit for the tour-pak), I only have one issue with the bike:

It has a persistent and chronic stalling problem whenever it's been run long enough to be fully warmed up (say over an hour without stopping). It'll be running great as it always seems to, then I'll stop at a stop sign or traffic light and as soon as it drops to idle, it stalls. Start it back up, it'll idle fine and run fine until the next stop sign, and then stall again as soon as it drops to idle again. Sometimes instead of stalling it'll drop to a very low idle and chug-chug-chug like it wants to stall, and a blip of the throttle will bring it back up to normal (until the next stop sign). I'm the third owner, so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been abused. It has Rinehart True Dual pipes but otherwise seems pretty close to stock. It doesn't leak and it runs like a raped ape at speed. I took it to the dealer where it was originally purchased and they kept it a week. They claimed they could not reproduce the problem but they replaced the voltage regulator (for $400) and gave it back to me. And it still has the stalling problem! They also claimed it does not "throw a code" so I'm trying to figure out what kind of problem would be so consistent but not throw a code? A friend suggested it might be a defective engine CPU, but that should definitely generate some kind of code, no? The dealer insists it doesn't. What can I do, other than pay the dealer for an open-ended diagnosis that could run $1000 or more? And maybe still not fix it! I even called The Motor Company and spoke with one of their techs, and he said he'd never heard of this problem. Has anyone heard of this? Any ideas how to address it? A million thanks to whomever can figure this one out.

 

Find and Indy and walk away from dealers....no need for one after warranty runs out......list of problems is long that it could be. First thing pull the seat and get familiar with the battery cables and grounds. Remove and clean all of them real good. Remove ground cable first. Than the rest. Also check the 2 cables together on starter. I remove the smaller one and run it to the battery. High heat bikes like the 110 that screws up a lot. That one small wire sandwiched on top of the + batt cable to stater runs the whole bike. Start there....I have fixed many many ride ability and lighting starting problems just under the seat.
plus it’s cheap a dealer techs are too lazy to do.....no pay involved.
i am in ct also....we used to race karts at the fair....

 

It is more than likely the IAC valve. Very common problem on an 07 CVO.There are u-tube videos on how to spray some WD to get it to operate properly, however you will, more than likely, end up replacing it. That's what I did and it solved my problem. If you do this yourself it will be much easier to do with an extra set of hands. Make sure you only have a half a gallon, or so, of gas in the tank when you do it. They say you don't need to completely remove the tank, but it sure makes it a lot easier to do. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the replies. I will definitely check out both those areas of the bike.

 

Make sure the engine temperature sensor is good. Your bike may have had the eitms turned on at the dealer...get it turned off. My 08 cvo road king runs like crap with it activated and it kicks in way to soon, bikes not even very hot.

 

Thanks for the reply. I will check that out.

 

The stalling when hot may not be that big of deal. Remove your air cleaner. Is it clean? Does it have oil in it? If it has oil in it, it is probably due to the crankcase oil being above the full mark when hot. If it is dirty, clean it. I use an air hose to reverse blow it out (from inside out) The oil or dirt will deposit on either the IAT (intake air temperature) or the IAC (intake air control solenoid). You will see the IAT sensor just after the throttle blade. The hole for the IAC is just before the throttle blade. Use some sensor safe spray cleaner with the straw attachment on these two items and you should be good. Don't spray too much as the wash will go down the intake and into the cylinders. Re-install the cleaned air cleaner and give it test ride. Good luck!

 

Thanks for your suggestions. I will look into what you said.

 

If the above info is of no help try a set of plugs. Had a similar problem on my '15 CVO and plugs fixed it.
the suggestion was from Doc over in Minneola.

 

I don't know how much of what applies to a 2015 also applies to a 2007, but they both have the 110 motor and it might be essentially the same motor despite all the other differences in the bikes, so it might make a difference and I'll certainly try it, especially since it can never hurt to change the plugs after any bike has been sitting awhile (such as an entire winter or two). Thanks!