Posted this yesterday in the tech forum but got nothing, maybe some of you guys have some ideas or experience with something similar.

Sorry if this is a long post but this problem has been haunting me for about a year now.

1998 FLHRCI - basically stock, with aftermarket slip-ons I believe are Drag Specialities.

First happened about a year ago, about 50 miles into a days ride, pulled up to a stop light, engine kept revving at high throttle....figured it was a stuck throttle cable, played with it a bit and it went down to normal idle after a few stop lights. Never happened again that ride. Next day went through all cables, lubed and adjusted. Same thing happened again a few weeks later, then again...and now has been the rule rather than the exception.Had it in the garage after a short ride, trying to trouble shoot and with the A/C off saw that the throttle was closed, but the idle speed control actuator was working to make it fast idle. Try to lube that and make sure it was free of anything...but it's electronic so I couldn't do much to it.

Next week I figured it needed to go into an expert and had a good shop about a hour away. Went to gas up before the trip and the bike wouldn't start...up with the seat, loose battery cable...and fried BatteryTender pig tail. Tighten it up and off to the shop. In the 40 miles to the shop, never did the high rev...explained to the shop owner and he suggested that the short was probably the cause of the whole thing...screwing with the ECM or whatever.

Ran ok for a while but then returned. I would say it happens at least every other time I ride the bike whether it is 15 miles or 150. Some times I suspect it happens as the bike goes from "cold idle" to "hot idle" because it tends to happen about that time most of the time. When it happens, and I crack the throttle, a major hesitation occurs, coughs, then rev's....but won't go down. Backfires and stumbles and get some black smoke...but not when the bike is running fine...when it doesn't happen, everything seems sweet. The "engine" light has only come on once or twice when this was happening, but does not normally give any indications that something is wrong. When it "high rev's" it will usually stop and run normal after about 15 minutes of riding. It's kind of dangerous and embarrassing at stop lights to run that way, but if I stick with it it does go away.

I suspected it was still something electrical...I have been through2 batteries in 3 years. Believe I trouble shot this correctly (thanks to much on this board) to the voltage regulator.Installed a new regulator today. At the terminals...12.9v with bike off, 14.4v with engine on(stator checks out fine). All seemed great on the initial test ride this morning about 50 miles...no problems at all. This afternoon, damn thing came back. Now I amfrustrated.

30,000 miles on the bike.I have had the bike for over 5 years with no issues. Had 10,000 dealer service done in 2003, did a top-end full gasket job in 2005. Have been thinking of taking into the dealer for another 10,000 mile service, but I really want to try to at leastnarrow downthis problem because I don't want themget itand have it work fineduring the service. This is my first EFI bike, so there is a point that I am just lost.

Any ideas, suggestions ?? Any advice would really help...of course a few more beers and I am sure I will feel better too.

Here in south Floridait was 81 today....gee, sorry...I really didn't need to add that did I.

 

Anybody got any suggestions

[IMG]local://upfiles/48360/C3E7A19EF48145A88681FEFD32EDF40A.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'm guessing you have a Magneti-Marelli EFI system. HD shifted to the Delphi systems in 2002. The M-M systems are know for idle creep up.

I have a M-M system on my '01 but have not had any idle problems yet. Do a search on M-M and idle though and you should find some good info.

 

I have read some posts on here about high idle.

Read this to see if it sounds like it could be your problem

https://www.hdforums.com/m_2281623/tm.htm

Try a search for high idle also

 

I have that Marelli FI on my 98 RK. I have an idle problem too, and it's not been since new. I have a stage 2 cam now and cold start is problematic. I have to fast idle it with the thumb screw, for a while till it's warm. This does not directly relate to your issue, but my point is that my mechanic says these M-M systems are really hard to tune up, and this is the best I can get. He is a fairly promanent custom bike builder. I have not had it to H-D. Just my 2c. Mark

 

consider this:
step one: check for trouble codes..
1-turn ignition key switch to ignition and then turn off 1 second after fuel pump stops.
2.repeat #1 again..remember 1 second after pump stops
3.turn ignition key switch to ignition and wait about 8 seconds for a bunch of flashing of the check engine light
it will then stop for 2 seconds..get ready... these are the codes you must count:
it will slowly flash 1,2,3,5....there is NO 4....this is the first digit of the 2 digit code ..so it can only be 1,2,3,5 __ __
then a 2 second pause...then you will get second digit of the 2 digit code..it can only be 1,2,3,4,5,6
remember after the complete 2 digit code is given you will go back to the rapid flash sequence..
there are a total of 15 codes available with this procedure
examples
52,53,54,55 bad news ECM replacement
56 crank/cam sensor
11 throttle sensor
12 barometric 14 engine temp. sensor 15 intake temp sensor
23 and 32 are injectors front/rear
24 coil
33 fuel pump relay--in this case you would not hear the pump but instead waited 3 seconds after the on / off sequence

 

consider
step 2
what were the codes????
check the temp. sensor is in the middle of the front head ..look in from the top of the head with a flashlight..mirror?
anything melted?

 

check for code 56.
cam position sensor.
with 30,oooo miles , very possible you will find some melted biege stuff weeping out the hole under the timer cover..just were the wires exit the cone...located by right foot floor board....this is the cam position sensor starting to take a dump....this will thow code 56 and make starting more difficult over time..
from my own experience and reading other posts the following seem the most common problems with this model and year..
cam position sensor
crank position sensor
speedometer sensor(clean it)
engine temp sensor($100)
the odometer LCD display will leak a bit over time..and some numbers will be unreadable.
the little window on the gas tank that shows the blinkers,neutral hi-beam etc. gets ugly over time.(cheap to replace)
the gas gauge fogs when it gets wet..just deal with it..
the horn sucks...replace with autozone or discount autopart low tone friam high way horn..(under $20) fits in cow bell..direct wire..
the shift levers: the floor board outside (front) shift lever will get stripped over time. ($35)
***check the allen head bolt on the rear shift lever..the one at the transmission...near the back tire..the one that the shift rod attaches to....it will be very likely loose...check it after every oil change...very costly to replace do to limited access..

 

Thanks guys...this is great information. I had considered one of the many sensors going bad, but didn't know I could get the error codes without a scanalizer. (I do have the shop manual) The whole EFI stuff has me a bit cautious with the wrenches. I have noticed the heads / engine feeling a bit hotter, but didnt know if it was just me or if it was actually hotter.

Are there any concerns I should know about if I purchase those individual sensors and install them myself? Most look pretty simple - dare I say plug & play, but am a little concerned about trying to re-tune it after an exchange of a sensor.

Thanks again...

 

read the codes first.
they will help to point you in the right direction.
harley service manual 99483-98 is full of information...section 9 is fuel injection.
do everything on the bike with the battery disconnected when working on electrical.
the engine temp. sensor May require setting of hot and cold idle. I have not changed out the temp. sensor on my bike..but the thing most mention is to not overtighten as it will crack...
this is the information you may need.
the cam position sensor i have completed myself .(you must cut an allen wrench to be able to reach the clip behind the exhaust pipe below timer cone)
the crank position sensor others have posted as not difficult.
Setting idle mm system/repost from forum
You need to make sure the throttle cables are not hanging up, are lubed properly and the throttle is closing all the way, and the throttle return spring is OK. If all this checks out:

MM EFI.

1. Remove your right saddlebag and side cover.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly
3. Start the bike and make sure it is at normal operating temp.

You Need A Tach For This Part:

4. Adjust the hot idle to 950/1050 rpm.
5. Unplug the temp sensor.

Your bike now thinks it's cold!

6. Set the cold idle to 1500rpm
7. Shut the bike off.
8. Remove the 5 and 15 amp fuses from the fuse block which is on the side you took the cover off of.
9. Plug the cold sensor connector back in.
10. Replace the air cleaner assembly.
11. Wait at least 30 minutes, then replace the 2 fuses
12.Replace the side cover.
13. Replace the saddlebag.

When you restart your bike, the ECM should remember the new idle settings you did .
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A different way of doing the above mentioned that I found if you have no luck with setting it...

This describes a method to set cold and hot idle speed on Magneti-Morelli EFI systems.

First, when it comes to setting cold idle, the service manual leads you down a path of frustration. This is a very simple and effective way of adjusting it. If you start the engine stone cold and it idles below 1200 rpm (after it stabilizes) then turn the cold idle screw (in linkage, on the side that rotates with the throttle plates) in. If it's over 1300 rpm, then turn the screw out (therefore, set cold idle speed at 1200 rpm for TC-88's)It's that easy . Also, to guarantee that the idle will be recognized by the ECM, run the bike until it's fully warmed up, turn the hot idle (in the throttle body, forward of the front intake, near the bottom) up to 1200 rpm, shut off the ignition and pull the 5 amp fuse (in the fuse holder on the ECM brackett), run a lead from the cold (relay) side of the 5 amp socket to ground. Let it sit for 15 minutes or longer if practical, then put the fuse back in and warm it back up, turn it back down to 1000. Works like a charm.

The Magnetti Morelli was used on baggers from 96-01 never on Softails. The Delphi is used on the Softails and all '02 and later baggers.