Removing an Ignition switch
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
Removing an Ignition switch
if it ain't one damn thing after another. As you may recall, the PO of my FLT replaced the shark fairing with a batwing from an Evo. The ignition switch has always been sorta floppy, but it worked. I could never get it to lock the forks, though. Rode it into town the other day and ended up having to trailer it home. Parked it, and when I tried to start it, the switch wouldn't turn from OFF to any other position. This has the old switch with both run no lights and run with lights position. Get it back home and since it flops around so much, I can't get it into the fork-lock position so I can get the ****/key assembly out. I've got to pull out on the pin to release it (see red circle below of another assembly I have loose in the garage.
I pried off the decal under the ****, and found out why it flops so much; apparently the Evo fairing had 2 countersunk screws (missing in mine) that secure the switch to the inner fairing ? See open holes below.
I'm wondering, can I drill a new small hole (where I put the yellow circle), and access the release pin through there, perhaps with a jeweler's screwdriver?
Edit: yeah those die grinder marks are mine...I was frustrated !
I pried off the decal under the ****, and found out why it flops so much; apparently the Evo fairing had 2 countersunk screws (missing in mine) that secure the switch to the inner fairing ? See open holes below.
I'm wondering, can I drill a new small hole (where I put the yellow circle), and access the release pin through there, perhaps with a jeweler's screwdriver?
Edit: yeah those die grinder marks are mine...I was frustrated !
Last edited by SeaZund; Mar 16, 2015 at 11:22 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
I was looking at the extra assembly I have which is also from an EVO. It does not have any holes in the top where those 2 countersunk holes in my fairing are. I wonder if there's an additional bracket that my PO neglected to use when he converted things? My extra switch is held in position by these 2 chrome threaded collars
When I pull up on my switch ****, I don't see any chrome collars, just one big washer that doesn't seem to be serving any purpose. I'll know more once I figure out how to release the ****.
I don't mind drilling that extra hole, it'll get hidden with a new decal. I just wonder how to hold my currect switch tight in the future. I can look down through the countersunk holes, I see no matching holes in the current switch, either...there must be some kind of missing bracket.
When I pull up on my switch ****, I don't see any chrome collars, just one big washer that doesn't seem to be serving any purpose. I'll know more once I figure out how to release the ****.
I don't mind drilling that extra hole, it'll get hidden with a new decal. I just wonder how to hold my currect switch tight in the future. I can look down through the countersunk holes, I see no matching holes in the current switch, either...there must be some kind of missing bracket.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
well from that SaintCharles fiche site you showed me, it looks like the same switch was used from 80 thru 92. 93 and up switch looks like it uses those 2 screws (without any extra bracket),
so my PO must have used a 93 or later fairing, but kept the original 1980 switch. If I can get the key/**** ***'y out, I'll bet I can take those 2 chrome collar pieces off my extra switch and not have to pull my inner fairing off to replace the switch. I've got a NIB 1980 key/****, plus the extra Evo key/****. My spare Evo parts are '87, so both pieces should work if my actual switch housing is hosed.
so my PO must have used a 93 or later fairing, but kept the original 1980 switch. If I can get the key/**** ***'y out, I'll bet I can take those 2 chrome collar pieces off my extra switch and not have to pull my inner fairing off to replace the switch. I've got a NIB 1980 key/****, plus the extra Evo key/****. My spare Evo parts are '87, so both pieces should work if my actual switch housing is hosed.
Last edited by SeaZund; Mar 18, 2015 at 04:17 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Farmington ,MS
I can't tell from the pics what you actually have going on, but I am installing a 93 up evo inner/outer fairing on my 83 and here is what I did. The 93 up switch mounts to the top tree, so I had to use a 93 up top tree...the fork lock will not hit the original lock hole ,so I made a bracket and welded it to the frame so the lock works.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
Tom, you'll be using the 93 switch as well, where the fork lock is a button that pops out of the bottom of the switch?
I've got the switch prior to that version
I think what locks with the earlier version is that notch in the chrome collar at the top of mine.
I've got the switch prior to that version
I think what locks with the earlier version is that notch in the chrome collar at the top of mine.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
Likes: 7
From: D/FW Texas
80 thru 92 batwing and sharks all used the same switch. How does this pin work in a stock bike? Does it fit into something on the top tree?
It needs to be pulled out about 1/8 inch to release and allow the ****/key assembly to be removed. That's my current dilemma, and why I think drilling that extra hole (in my earlier post) might be the only way I can access it, and with a scribe, or tweezers, or jeweler's screwdriver, I might be able to reach it.
Also, what is the purpose of this screw with a spring on it?
Edit: Ok, this is the fork lock plunger. Using the old stype swich with a 93 and up fairing will as Tom said, cause you to lose the locking alignment..so even if the switch gets's into fork-lock, the front end won't.
It needs to be pulled out about 1/8 inch to release and allow the ****/key assembly to be removed. That's my current dilemma, and why I think drilling that extra hole (in my earlier post) might be the only way I can access it, and with a scribe, or tweezers, or jeweler's screwdriver, I might be able to reach it.
Also, what is the purpose of this screw with a spring on it?
Edit: Ok, this is the fork lock plunger. Using the old stype swich with a 93 and up fairing will as Tom said, cause you to lose the locking alignment..so even if the switch gets's into fork-lock, the front end won't.
Last edited by SeaZund; Mar 17, 2015 at 03:27 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,290
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From: D/FW Texas
This is an 84 to 92 top tree.
Does that release pin I need to get to tie into this area someway?
On this 83 top tree, you can see that's a roll pin. Don't know it's purpose.
Does that release pin I need to get to tie into this area someway?
On this 83 top tree, you can see that's a roll pin. Don't know it's purpose.
Last edited by SeaZund; Mar 16, 2015 at 06:28 PM.
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