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Dont blast me here , if this is in the wrong place but ,i just picked up an old shovel here and need a couple of tips on the rear drum brake adjustment . The good news is the pedal gos to the floor and does nothing so it would be hard for me to mess it up worse. What i know the cylinder is new w fluid . 7 k original miles on the bike Sat in a shed for 30 years .
Last edited by IzzoQuazzo; Jun 9, 2016 at 12:57 PM.
Reason: profanity removed by moderator
Dont blast me here , if this is in the wrong place but ,i just picked up an old shovel here and need a couple of tips on the rear drum brake adjustment . The good news is the pedal gos to the floor and does nothing so it would be hard for me to mess it up worse. What i know the cylinder is new w fluid . 7 k original miles on the bike Sat in a shed for 30 years .
Now that you own a shovelhead, your next investment should be a HD service manual and a HD parts manual.
Now back to your rear brake problem. Sitting that long, the brake fluid most likely turned to a powder. Pull the master cylinder and rebuild it. The rebuild kit doesn't cost much. I'd also pull the rear wheel and rebuild the rear brake cylinder. Before re-mounting the brake cylinders, flush out the brake line.
I would take it one stpe further. Sitting for 30 years is a long, long time. You're gonna have to pull the rear wheel anyway to rebuild the wheel cylinder, so when you do inspect/replace the brake shoes if needed. Flush all the lines and clean everything to make sure you get rid of the old DOT 3 fluid. Replace with DOT 5. If stock your front is a simple drum brake. Pull it as well and take a look at the shoes.
Lastly if you replace the shoes (front or back) be sure to have the drum turned.
I would take it one stpe further. Sitting for 30 years is a long, long time. You're gonna have to pull the rear wheel anyway to rebuild the wheel cylinder, so when you do inspect/replace the brake shoes if needed. Flush all the lines and clean everything to make sure you get rid of the old DOT 3 fluid. Replace with DOT 5. If stock your front is a simple drum brake. Pull it as well and take a look at the shoes.
Lastly if you replace the shoes (front or back) be sure to have the drum turned.
Pay attention to this very solid advice for the old drum bakes also if the wheel cylinder is rust pitted bad enough you have to replace it pay close to what you buy there's a couple different ones that take slightly different brake hose connections. They sit that long the whole system from the master cylinder back becomes a rust trap.
I have read , and see that there are two brass bolts that adjust the position of the calipers . For others working on these what fits them perfectly is the 3/8 square hole in the end of a 3/8 inch extention with a box end wrench on the end that the socket is supposed to go . Works perectly.
I have read , and see that there are two brass bolts that adjust the position of the calipers . For others working on these what fits them perfectly is the 3/8 square hole in the end of a 3/8 inch extention with a box end wrench on the end that the socket is supposed to go . Works perectly.
He has the right idea but not the nomenclature. The two lugs on the drum brake backing plate to adjust the shoes do respond to a 3/8 socket extension. The square lugs are not brass but they do round off easily if you try to use a ordinary wrench.
to adjust the rear brake the front lug is turned counterclockwise // the rear lug is turned clockwise - turn them in that direction till the wheel stops turning / then back off till the wheel spins free and your done with both lugs - should be good for one season or even 2
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