oil catcher tells me the breather valve hole is shot and it spits so much oil it needs a catcher and a drain

 

UPDATE - CLutch pulled in, when bike is in GEAR i can spin it FREELY, release the CLUTCH LEVER and rear tire will not spin!!! It will shift into neutral no problem and rolls, because thats how I pushed it home!!!

To take the primary chain off do I pull the clutch and sprocket nut off and pull them all off togethor with the chain? Seen a youtube vid about that once! What does left hand thread mean? That I turn the nut right to take it off?

 

The first thing I would look for is , Did any of the screws that mount the air horn to the S&S carb come out and get sucked into the motor. It has happened before and you did say that you just had the carb off.... If that's the case then yea you're gonna have a lot of problems. However they all can be fixed especially with all the knowledge here on the forum... Good luck.... Luke......

Yes clutch basket nut turns to the right to remove... crank nut is normal...

 

I second checking the carb I have seen things sucked in before.
BTW Seeing your name made me chuckle, because this is all I can think of when I see Lucky Luke.

 

Thx you guys are gr8 its just so much info all at once I guess i replied before i even read it all. IM JUST STILL SO BUMMED!!!!!!! Grrrrrrr

Is it possible to fix even the worse case scenario within a month or 2 so i have a ride for the summer? I will try and take my time to read all replies before I answer in the future. I still do not know how to answer everyone individually, i hate staring at a screen and this forum stuff is still new to me, but with so much help from all of you guys im flattered and I think WE WILL GET ER DUN I HOPE

I will get back to you all when I read everything and try everything you guys say and get caught up!

 

Yes, that is what a left-handed thread means. Take the time to read through your manual on disassembly procedures. Take photos (lots of them) of where everything goes and how they are positioned, especially hoses and wires.

You will probably need a clutch hub puller to get the clutch hub off; it is a keyed shaft. Make sure the clutch pushrod is out (you do not want pressure from the puller on it or you will press it against your kicker cover and crack the cover. And to get the pushrod out you need to remove the kicker cover and take it out (and install it) from that side..

To get the inner primary off, pull the solenoid and then the battery tray and starter components. The stator needs to come off as well. The manual talks about a special puller to get it off but you can do it w/o one.

Take a close look at the bolts holding the inner primary on. There will be 2 for the motor (on the inside) and another two on the outside; there will be 4 for the tranny. Once you have a bare innner primary, loosen the 4 bottom nuts that secure the tranny to the mounting plate. This should free up the inner primary and allow you to remove it; if it is still tight, a couple of blows with a mallet and a wood block on the backside will pop it loose.

With that done you are free to get at the motor. Pull the tanks, carb and manifold, remove top engine mount and then the four bolts that hold the motor to the frame. You can then remove the entire motor (w/o disassembly) from the frame at that time.

I like to keep everything of like-minded parts and components in sepaerate piles; it makes it easier when re-assembling everything.

Find a trusted and relaible wrench to go thorugh your motor if you do not have the skill set. Depending on his schedule, a 2-4 week turnaround time is realistic. Additionally what is nice is that this is bench work. Mechanics like this because it saves him space (no additional bike to store), time and labor (because he is not doing all the disassembly to get at the motor). This saves you dollars and cents because those time and labor costs are not passed on to you; you are now paying parts, time and labor for the motor components only.

 

I agree with the mention of possible runaway screw sucked into the air breather. Just not so sure it would be enough to lock that motor up. Of course anythings possible.

A buddy of mine sucked a breather filter screw into his engine once. Stopped to figure it out. It was hammering the hec out things. Shut it off then restarted it no noise! Rode it home quiet. When torn down the screw had imbedded itself in the top of the piston.

 

UPDATE - PRIMARY CHAIN OFF!

Using a socket on the Tranny spins the tire in all gears!

Put the compensator nut on as far as it would go without making it very tight (wasnt sure if thats ok) but wasnt enough to make the motor turn i know that!

Took off carb air breather and all nuts and bolts that I know of are still there!

Couldnt see anything by shining a light into the sparkplug holes.

Removed pushord covers nothing loose or bent.




Looked in kicker reservoir, oils low but if i stick my pinky all the way down i get sum

NOW I GOTTA PULL THAT INNER PRIMARY COVER OFF AND GET TO THE JUGS HUH? WOW

 

You don't need to take the inner primary off if you just want to take the heads and rockers off to inspect them. And it might be better not to do so unless you are already convinced you need to remove the whole motor.

From my limited knowledge perspective, that primary looks OK - you didn't find anything obviously wrong in there, no broken chain or metal debris, so no need to remove that yet. The clutch hub fingers look pretty worn though - but that's a different issue.

If you can't turn the motor by the compensator, if the plugs are out and there's no connection between the motor and primary, then you can rule out the transmission as the source of the problem.

Take the rockers and heads off next and see if that's what's fecked up. It could well be a dropped valve that you just can't see by shining a torch through the plug hole. There may be no need to pull the whole bottom end.

Just my $0.02

 

Strongly agree with this...to soon to pull that inner primary cover. Get into the top end. This will reveal your lockup wether it's top or worse a crank pin. If the crank pin went south you'll have to pull the engine to rebuild.