Riding along when motor seized!!!
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 54
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From: GERMANY
Thanks guys for helping guide me every step of the way its helping alot and I wanna GIT R DUN!!!
Its all ready to take the heads off, but i dont have one of those Obstruction Wrenches!
Found one online, gonna take a month to get here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Fu...466082&vxp=mtr
NO tricks using metric tools? No metric sizes are compatible with 5/8 i dont think. im gonna search Englands EBAY since stuff gets here usually within a week! Or call a German buddy afterall
Is that thing in the middle up top (first pic) an official engine mount? Obviously I will have to remove that right? And the little oil line between the rocker boxes (pic 2) also I imagine? Just asking cause there might be a special way to remove certain things and I wanna know before I start breaking more than is already broke. Also whoever invented the FaT-Bob Tank would have probably had a laugh if he woulda seen how hard a time I had getting it off it being 2 pieces, both sides flopping around go to catch one the other falls and vice versa, losing fuel all over WOWWW!!!!!
MORE ON THE SOUND SHE MADE BEFORE SHE LOCKED UP -
Besides sounding like a wrench bouncing around in the front cylinder, when i tried to get home it was knocking like a plastic hammer hitting metal, clack clack clack, and then it changed to more metallic knock, there was a bus in front of me so when i slowed down and shifted down and was in higher rpms, thats when it instantly FROZE UP, NO CHANGE OF SOUND, JUST TIRE LOCKED AND SKIDDED TO A STOP!
Its all ready to take the heads off, but i dont have one of those Obstruction Wrenches!
Found one online, gonna take a month to get here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Craftsman-Fu...466082&vxp=mtr
NO tricks using metric tools? No metric sizes are compatible with 5/8 i dont think. im gonna search Englands EBAY since stuff gets here usually within a week! Or call a German buddy afterall
Is that thing in the middle up top (first pic) an official engine mount? Obviously I will have to remove that right? And the little oil line between the rocker boxes (pic 2) also I imagine? Just asking cause there might be a special way to remove certain things and I wanna know before I start breaking more than is already broke. Also whoever invented the FaT-Bob Tank would have probably had a laugh if he woulda seen how hard a time I had getting it off it being 2 pieces, both sides flopping around go to catch one the other falls and vice versa, losing fuel all over WOWWW!!!!!
MORE ON THE SOUND SHE MADE BEFORE SHE LOCKED UP -
Besides sounding like a wrench bouncing around in the front cylinder, when i tried to get home it was knocking like a plastic hammer hitting metal, clack clack clack, and then it changed to more metallic knock, there was a bus in front of me so when i slowed down and shifted down and was in higher rpms, thats when it instantly FROZE UP, NO CHANGE OF SOUND, JUST TIRE LOCKED AND SKIDDED TO A STOP!
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Joined: Apr 2014
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From: UK
To get the heads and rockers off without mangling stuff, you will need a torque adaptor - Stahlwille (German) make them. In Germany. So look for those. Here's one I bought recently - but honestly I can't remember off the top of my head if this one was for heads or barrels. Anyway - buy the size you need :-)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310122902555
You will probably find it really difficult to take the oil line between the cylinders off without fecking it all up. If you remove the head bolts and take the heads and rockers off in one piece ( I don't think you even can take the rockers off without removing the heads or having a massive struggle) then it's easier to remove the oil lines on the bench. At least that's what I did....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310122902555
You will probably find it really difficult to take the oil line between the cylinders off without fecking it all up. If you remove the head bolts and take the heads and rockers off in one piece ( I don't think you even can take the rockers off without removing the heads or having a massive struggle) then it's easier to remove the oil lines on the bench. At least that's what I did....
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 742
Likes: 23
To get the heads and rockers off without mangling stuff, you will need a torque adaptor - Stahlwille (German) make them. In Germany. So look for those. Here's one I bought recently - but honestly I can't remember off the top of my head if this one was for heads or barrels. Anyway - buy the size you need :-)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310122902555
You will probably find it really difficult to take the oil line between the cylinders off without fecking it all up. If you remove the head bolts and take the heads and rockers off in one piece ( I don't think you even can take the rockers off without removing the heads or having a massive struggle) then it's easier to remove the oil lines on the bench. At least that's what I did....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310122902555
You will probably find it really difficult to take the oil line between the cylinders off without fecking it all up. If you remove the head bolts and take the heads and rockers off in one piece ( I don't think you even can take the rockers off without removing the heads or having a massive struggle) then it's easier to remove the oil lines on the bench. At least that's what I did....
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: GERMANY
*QUICK NOTE -
Remember i mentioned I had just fixed the accelerator pump on the S&S carb before taking off. Well I forgot to turn the screw in to limit the gas squirting out after fixing it. I only made it about 1 mile after that until I started hearing what sounded like metal scratching on metal! Turned around and tried to go home and the sound, turned into tapping, which turned into knocking, and when I dropped gears and my rpms raised thats when the motor LOCKED UP!
*I THINK I WASHED MY CYLINDER WALLS OUT!!! Anyone ever did that? GOOGLE SAYS - "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston ring!
Also i ordered one of those horseshoe bent 9/16 wrenches for cheap from a dude here in Germany, will be here in a couple days, if that dont work, gonna try some of the above mentioned tricks. (I thank you guys so much!)
I try to stay away from all those high dollar stores over here but MANY thanks guys!!! I might need them some day! I live close to W&W i just always feel raped even after just buying a sticker. I understand they are a business but man im scraping by the way it is and trying to have fun and not get robbed!!! But I definately check out all suggestions and websites you guys send me. Connections are a beautiful thing, that means anybody that has the used parts I may need or knows someone PLEASE PM me
P.s. If that cylinder is stuck to the piston will i be able to simply pull it off Or what do I need to know? And if only the 1 cylinder is bad can I just have it fixed or do I need to take the other one off also or open my cases? I JUST WANNA RIDE!!! I dont wanna get too deep if I dont havta because I am on a budget like probably most of us are and im not the best mechanic yet either. And lastly, do you guys recommend upgrading cylinders or is staying stock easier and cheaper? Whats up around the bend for me guys?
Remember i mentioned I had just fixed the accelerator pump on the S&S carb before taking off. Well I forgot to turn the screw in to limit the gas squirting out after fixing it. I only made it about 1 mile after that until I started hearing what sounded like metal scratching on metal! Turned around and tried to go home and the sound, turned into tapping, which turned into knocking, and when I dropped gears and my rpms raised thats when the motor LOCKED UP!
*I THINK I WASHED MY CYLINDER WALLS OUT!!! Anyone ever did that? GOOGLE SAYS - "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston ring!
Also i ordered one of those horseshoe bent 9/16 wrenches for cheap from a dude here in Germany, will be here in a couple days, if that dont work, gonna try some of the above mentioned tricks. (I thank you guys so much!)
I try to stay away from all those high dollar stores over here but MANY thanks guys!!! I might need them some day! I live close to W&W i just always feel raped even after just buying a sticker. I understand they are a business but man im scraping by the way it is and trying to have fun and not get robbed!!! But I definately check out all suggestions and websites you guys send me. Connections are a beautiful thing, that means anybody that has the used parts I may need or knows someone PLEASE PM me
P.s. If that cylinder is stuck to the piston will i be able to simply pull it off Or what do I need to know? And if only the 1 cylinder is bad can I just have it fixed or do I need to take the other one off also or open my cases? I JUST WANNA RIDE!!! I dont wanna get too deep if I dont havta because I am on a budget like probably most of us are and im not the best mechanic yet either. And lastly, do you guys recommend upgrading cylinders or is staying stock easier and cheaper? Whats up around the bend for me guys?
Last edited by unluckyluke; Mar 3, 2017 at 05:23 AM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,586
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From: Honah Lee
You only show one spark plug, did you pull both to see if it hydraulic locked up. However, that may have broke crank.
Years ago, had a 3 cylinder 2 stroke outboard. One of the carb main and idle jets got stopped up. Would not idle or start unless you opened up throttle. Got it going with cover off and in high idle and manually thru it in gear. Figured it would clear up running. About 5 miles out in the bay, son came fwd and told me the engine was making a loud tap. He took controls and before I got back there, it starting rapping and made a loud crack and went to a high idle as we came off plane. It was still running and chugging along sounding like a diesel at idle.
We actually made it back. The top rod was running without oil fuel mix and the roller bearing on the crank were long thin foil that looked like blue aluminum foil. The rod had knocked a hole in the side of the block.
That new 4 cylinder 135 sure ran that big 21 foot lap-strake open fisherman a many years after that but I kept those carbs right after that.
Years ago, had a 3 cylinder 2 stroke outboard. One of the carb main and idle jets got stopped up. Would not idle or start unless you opened up throttle. Got it going with cover off and in high idle and manually thru it in gear. Figured it would clear up running. About 5 miles out in the bay, son came fwd and told me the engine was making a loud tap. He took controls and before I got back there, it starting rapping and made a loud crack and went to a high idle as we came off plane. It was still running and chugging along sounding like a diesel at idle.
We actually made it back. The top rod was running without oil fuel mix and the roller bearing on the crank were long thin foil that looked like blue aluminum foil. The rod had knocked a hole in the side of the block.
That new 4 cylinder 135 sure ran that big 21 foot lap-strake open fisherman a many years after that but I kept those carbs right after that.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 3, 2017 at 05:16 AM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,447
Likes: 463
From: USA
*QUICK NOTE -
Remember i mentioned I had just fixed the accelerator pump on the S&S carb before taking off. Well I forgot to turn the screw in to limit the gas squirting out after fixing it. I only made it about 1 mile after that until I started hearing what sounded like metal scratching on metal! Turned around and tried to go
home and the sound, turned into tapping,
which turned into knocking, and when I
dropped gears and my rpms raised thats
when the motor LOCKED UP!
*I THINK I WASHED MY CYLINDER WALLS OUT!!! Anyone ever did that? GOOGLE SAYS - "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston ring!
Also i ordered one of those horseshoe bent 9/16 wrenches for cheap from a dude here in Germany, will be here in a couple days, if that dont work, gonna try some of the above mentioned tricks. (I thank you guys so much!)
I try to stay away from all those high dollar stores over here but MANY thanks guys!!! I might need them some day! I live close to W&W i just always feel raped even after just buying a sticker. I understand they are a business but man im scraping by the way it is and trying to have fun and not get robbed!!! But I definately check out all suggestions and websites you guys send me. Connections are a beautiful thing, that means anybody that has the used parts I may need or knows someone PLEASE PM me
P.s. If that cylinder is stuck to the piston will i be able to simply pull it off Or what do I need to know? And if only the 1 cylinder is bad can I just have it fixed or do I need to take the other one off also or open my cases? I JUST WANNA RIDE!!! I dont wanna get too deep if I dont havta because I am on a budget like probably most of us are and im not the best mechanic yet either. And lastly, do you guys recommend upgrading cylinders or is staying stock easier and cheaper? Whats up around the bend for me guys?
Remember i mentioned I had just fixed the accelerator pump on the S&S carb before taking off. Well I forgot to turn the screw in to limit the gas squirting out after fixing it. I only made it about 1 mile after that until I started hearing what sounded like metal scratching on metal! Turned around and tried to go
home and the sound, turned into tapping,
which turned into knocking, and when I
dropped gears and my rpms raised thats
when the motor LOCKED UP!
*I THINK I WASHED MY CYLINDER WALLS OUT!!! Anyone ever did that? GOOGLE SAYS - "fuel wash". It is caused by engine flooding at initial startup or in early operation of a newly rebuilt engine. This phenomenon can cause very serious damage to the cylinder bores, pistons, and piston ring!
Also i ordered one of those horseshoe bent 9/16 wrenches for cheap from a dude here in Germany, will be here in a couple days, if that dont work, gonna try some of the above mentioned tricks. (I thank you guys so much!)
I try to stay away from all those high dollar stores over here but MANY thanks guys!!! I might need them some day! I live close to W&W i just always feel raped even after just buying a sticker. I understand they are a business but man im scraping by the way it is and trying to have fun and not get robbed!!! But I definately check out all suggestions and websites you guys send me. Connections are a beautiful thing, that means anybody that has the used parts I may need or knows someone PLEASE PM me
P.s. If that cylinder is stuck to the piston will i be able to simply pull it off Or what do I need to know? And if only the 1 cylinder is bad can I just have it fixed or do I need to take the other one off also or open my cases? I JUST WANNA RIDE!!! I dont wanna get too deep if I dont havta because I am on a budget like probably most of us are and im not the best mechanic yet either. And lastly, do you guys recommend upgrading cylinders or is staying stock easier and cheaper? Whats up around the bend for me guys?
I hope its it's not the crank. If so to replace is NOT something I recommend the DIY guy to attempt. The flyeheel setup for that replacement has critical tolerance settings and should be setup by someone skilled with that repair.
Keep us updated.
Good luck!
Last edited by Taggs; Mar 3, 2017 at 06:05 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2017
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From: GERMANY
Running to my buddies because 9/16 should be a 14mm and he has one of these bent type boxed-end wrenches, that means i may have the front head off today!
Heres more pix, can someone tell me what brand cylinder heads these are? Does it play any roll here? Bikes a 1340 ci as far as i know! I always wanted to know what it really had in it!
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Also I static timed it using these directions http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf im sure my motor was at TDC cause i watched the dot barely come into the timing cover hole, made sure i was on the compression stroke, and watched the piston come all the way to the top by sticking something in the sparkplug hole! Then when turning the the plate right and left, when light went off turning the plate to the right, I locked the plate down! Thats how I understood the pdf directions anyway! But seems turned pretty far back tho (see pic). All switches down! Almost as RETARDED as it would go. Are these things accurate to time with? Just another theory...
[/URL]
Heres more pix, can someone tell me what brand cylinder heads these are? Does it play any roll here? Bikes a 1340 ci as far as i know! I always wanted to know what it really had in it!
[/URL][/URL][/URL][/URL]Also I static timed it using these directions http://www.ultimaproducts.com/53-644_Ignition.pdf im sure my motor was at TDC cause i watched the dot barely come into the timing cover hole, made sure i was on the compression stroke, and watched the piston come all the way to the top by sticking something in the sparkplug hole! Then when turning the the plate right and left, when light went off turning the plate to the right, I locked the plate down! Thats how I understood the pdf directions anyway! But seems turned pretty far back tho (see pic). All switches down! Almost as RETARDED as it would go. Are these things accurate to time with? Just another theory...
[/URL]
Last edited by unluckyluke; Mar 3, 2017 at 07:44 AM.
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Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 54
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From: GERMANY
*UPDATE - 14MM didnt fit! It'll b a couple days before my 9/16 tool comes in and I can remove the heads!!!
Yes i tried to turn the motor at the compensator nut but only by hand!
Aint ignorin anyone but to check if the rotor magnets may be jammed up in the stator i gotta pull the inner primary and that means put a puller on the clutch right? I already have the correct puller btw Someone said before I put a puller on the clutch i gotta remove something so i dont push it out the other side?
Also its good to know my timing was right. Even tho the plate is that far retarded?
Also the oil tank being only half full is that ok? Its used to foam over out of the filler opening while idling the bike so I drained some!
For those that asked I have 2 manuals. The 1978 1/2 -1984 Harley Davidson FL/FX Service Manual and a Clymers I usually try to compare what I read here with the manuals so i understand better.
And also today i tried to think of any tool that might work to gets the heads off any other way but failed miserably! HOW DO YOU USE ONE OF THESE? Sorry dudes...the Suspense is driving me to DRINK!
P.s. how do you use one of these? http://www.edgextremesports.com/cyli...FZy6wAodsZgCFw
Yes i tried to turn the motor at the compensator nut but only by hand!
Aint ignorin anyone but to check if the rotor magnets may be jammed up in the stator i gotta pull the inner primary and that means put a puller on the clutch right? I already have the correct puller btw Someone said before I put a puller on the clutch i gotta remove something so i dont push it out the other side?
Also its good to know my timing was right. Even tho the plate is that far retarded?
Also the oil tank being only half full is that ok? Its used to foam over out of the filler opening while idling the bike so I drained some!
For those that asked I have 2 manuals. The 1978 1/2 -1984 Harley Davidson FL/FX Service Manual and a Clymers I usually try to compare what I read here with the manuals so i understand better.
And also today i tried to think of any tool that might work to gets the heads off any other way but failed miserably! HOW DO YOU USE ONE OF THESE? Sorry dudes...the Suspense is driving me to DRINK!
P.s. how do you use one of these? http://www.edgextremesports.com/cyli...FZy6wAodsZgCFw
Last edited by unluckyluke; Mar 3, 2017 at 02:37 PM.