When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
you will be looking for trouble doing that swap - have a box of those in the shop the metal bearings wears out before that disc does - and installing a ram jet it never wears out
To be clear, you are telling me not to touch the ring/bearings behind the clutch, correct? I am more than good with that, really didn't want to tackle that job.
On a three stud clutch housing, is it normal for the front plate to have an uneven lift?
Squeezing the clutch lever and watching the clutch, the lower right area (5 o'clock on position on the clock face) doesn't come out quite as much as the upper left portion of the plate. Maybe 1/16 to 1/8 inch difference.
the clutch spring plate has 3 holes the clutch hub has 10 pins so its not a correct pulling circle - if you take the clutch adjustment nut off - use a large washer big enough to cover the opening and the adjustment screw comes through the center of it - you then re install the adjusting screw turn it down it will collapse the springs letting you remove the 3 nuts and the outer plate stays intact and comes off - nothing else is needed to remove the complete clutch and nothing else needs to be removed
hope you get that its a very easy way to replace the clutch - then set the distance like in the book to 1 inch and then set the cable at the bar with the screw -lock the nut
Glad there is no need to service the bearings/plate behind the clutch housing. I thought they likely were lubed by the oil supplied to primary, however had seen a YouTube of clutch replacement that included the bearings and ring being cleaned, greased and reinstalled. So that is where that question came from.
Actually made the mistake of pulling the clutch plate and springs apart but realized when re-assembling that I could use a washer and the adjusting screw and easily reassemble, tighten the 3 nuts then remove the washer.
The new Kevlar discs are in, adjustment nut tight. Checked the primary chain play and it was within spec. Made sure there was no grit or debris on inside the primary case, then closed it up with a new Cometic gasket. Adjusted the cable and locking nut is tight. I think I'm good to go.
Yellow oil and water,should flush all trans fluid and replace gaskets and breather. Dont forget to take primary totally off for trans shaft seal. But when you pull the actual clutch out check basket for binding and wear marks( my bet ). Then order one and replace it before you end up with more issues. Or just flush the trans keep an eye on the oil and level and run it. But definetly pull plates out of clutch and inspect basket.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.