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Advancing the timing will not help, if anything could slow the cranking rpm once the starter engages....
OK you did not take into account the fact this is a 1967 FLH and as such it has a centrifugal distributor its not a cone motor
and the advance unit when it wears it becomes loose and in turn, moving it ahead a couple of degrees brings the timing more in line with Not so much retard/ or as some have seen it sticks it the wrong direction - that causes the Bendix to kick back - no parts are available for those original dizzys today and -- you do what you can - it was experience not a guess from rosie
OK you did not take into account the fact this is a 1967 FLH and as such it has a centrifugal distributor its not a cone motor
and the advance unit when it wears it becomes loose and in turn, moving it ahead a couple of degrees brings the timing more in line with Not so much retard/ or as some have seen it sticks it the wrong direction - that causes the Bendix to kick back - no parts are available for those original dizzys today and -- you do what you can - it was experience not a guess from rosie
My brother in-law had a 72 sporty (kicker only) anyways he always had a difficult time starting it, kick, kick and more kick.... Turned out the centrifugal advance was stuck advanced. Once serviced and cleaned, it allowed the timing to return the base setting which allowed it to start much easier, So I was thinking that after he had tuned it and set the timing, advancing it more would create a hard start issue.. Or even a kick back. This is one of the reasons a Dyna 2ki keeps the timing at 0* till 500 rpm to assist in the ease of cranking and starting. I would of though with most all motors despite ignition or the type of distributor this would hold true..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Dec 21, 2017 at 08:52 PM.
Thanks all for input. I've had this apart before because the PO had left out the washer in the starter housing and the oil deflector and o ring. I should have replaced the Bendix just as a precaution when I had it apart but didn't have one on hand and I was anxious to get the bike on the road. Now I get to do it again. Oh well, gives me a project while the snow flies.
My brother in-law had a 72 sporty (kicker only) anyways he always had a difficult time starting it, kick, kick and more kick.... Turned out the centrifugal advance was stuck advanced. Once serviced and cleaned, it allowed the timing to return the base setting which allowed it to start much easier, So I was thinking that after he had tuned it and set the timing, advancing it more would create a hard start issue.. Or even a kick back. This is one of the reasons a Dyna 2ki keeps the timing at 0* till 500 rpm to assist in the ease of cranking and starting. I would of though with most all motors despite ignition or the type of distributor this would hold true..
the inside of a 67 is completely different then what your talking about - that is what I was trying to explain
If you pull the derby cover can you look inside to see what is going on up there?
No, the clutch pack will block any view to the bendix.
Here's a common practice what some wrenches do to view the bendix. Got another outer primary cover (w/or w/ out a derby cover). Cut the upper right corner off the derby cover, leaving intact the top upper right screw hole and top right side screw hole along with the hole for the starter shaft that has the needle bearings. (I attached a pic to show basically what I'm talking about).
what rosie has circled in red we cut that off an old cracked outer many years back, and I use it as a tool to set the Bendix engage depth, by shimming the shaft end and outer housing, so it does not the Bendix bottom as it spins against the back of the clutch hub
most have seen the damage that happens when you do not have the distance correct to the Bendix's clutch - it gets all scraped up from hitting the gear
Being Christmas and all, in between festivities, I shuffled bikes around and got the '67 up on the lift. I took the derby cover off and had my son hit the starter button while I looked at the starter clutch engage. What I noticed was that the thrust washer had a lot of play in it meaning I could use a screw driver to move it around and it could move at least a 1/4 inch. Is this normal or should it be tight against the starter shaft nut? I ordered a couple but am wondering if it's the washer that is worn or the nut or spacer.
Thanks in advance.
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