Rockerbox gaskets - Removing heads vs. pulling engine
#1
Rockerbox gaskets - Removing heads vs. pulling engine
I'm in the process of updating the charging system on my '75 FXE. The whole primary is removed and ready to be put back on, but before that I'd like to see what else I can do while it's off.
I definitely need rocker box gaskets replaced. I can't decide if it is better to tip the whole motor out at this point and get to them that way, or to pull the heads with it still bolted in the frame. I'm fine with replacing the headgaskets while I'm at it, just looking for the less time-consuming of the two options.
If I remove the heads, I have to deal with the manifold/carb, head gaskets. If I tip the motor out I have to deal with mounts, cables, oil lines, etc. Exhaust has to come off either way.
Also considering blocking off the primary while I'm at it. Any other suggestions of jobs while primary is off? Thanks.
I definitely need rocker box gaskets replaced. I can't decide if it is better to tip the whole motor out at this point and get to them that way, or to pull the heads with it still bolted in the frame. I'm fine with replacing the headgaskets while I'm at it, just looking for the less time-consuming of the two options.
If I remove the heads, I have to deal with the manifold/carb, head gaskets. If I tip the motor out I have to deal with mounts, cables, oil lines, etc. Exhaust has to come off either way.
Also considering blocking off the primary while I'm at it. Any other suggestions of jobs while primary is off? Thanks.
Last edited by Chris Sigo; 12-27-2018 at 03:16 PM. Reason: Added information
#2
front engine seal - the trans main seal and inside hi gear seal -
seal the 4 allens or torque bolts holding the stator and the 2 wood screws holding the wire for the plug and the plug slid up the block
never found it a value to 1/2 a job like that sure you can tip the engine and get the rockers off bur the paper from the gaskets will make you crazy to remove in the confined space < just my take
pull the heads correct way and put valve seals on at the same time all this will extend the engine and trans life if your keeping it
seal the 4 allens or torque bolts holding the stator and the 2 wood screws holding the wire for the plug and the plug slid up the block
never found it a value to 1/2 a job like that sure you can tip the engine and get the rockers off bur the paper from the gaskets will make you crazy to remove in the confined space < just my take
pull the heads correct way and put valve seals on at the same time all this will extend the engine and trans life if your keeping it
#3
I'm with John.... Pull the heads off... besides what he outlines... I need to look at the pushrod tube seals at minimum...
I also pull the lifters apart... check hydro units, and resetting the valve-lash/pushrod adjustment ain't gonna hurt a thing.
Do Not forget to check the Rocker to Valve stem interface [Pads]... Rockers do not last indefinitely!!!
Note... proper rocker endplay in the boxes is a great help for Noise... may help function... but I think not..
Only thing I do Not feel is an absolute requirement is valve seals...I have more than one engine without them, that is doing just fine... thanks
I also pull the lifters apart... check hydro units, and resetting the valve-lash/pushrod adjustment ain't gonna hurt a thing.
Do Not forget to check the Rocker to Valve stem interface [Pads]... Rockers do not last indefinitely!!!
Note... proper rocker endplay in the boxes is a great help for Noise... may help function... but I think not..
Only thing I do Not feel is an absolute requirement is valve seals...I have more than one engine without them, that is doing just fine... thanks
Last edited by Racepres; 12-27-2018 at 06:18 PM.
#4
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Cometic makes a top end kit for Shovels. You might consider that option...or use a James kit. Had good luck using either one.
me...I am all in for leaving the motor in the frame and pulling cylinders with rockers. Lots of gaskets and seals you can replace and minimize chance of oil leaks, carb-related leaks when you do the reassemble.
me...I am all in for leaving the motor in the frame and pulling cylinders with rockers. Lots of gaskets and seals you can replace and minimize chance of oil leaks, carb-related leaks when you do the reassemble.
#5
Cometic makes a top end kit for Shovels. You might consider that option...or use a James kit. Had good luck using either one.
me...I am all in for leaving the motor in the frame and pulling cylinders with rockers. Lots of gaskets and seals you can replace and minimize chance of oil leaks, carb-related leaks when you do the reassemble.
me...I am all in for leaving the motor in the frame and pulling cylinders with rockers. Lots of gaskets and seals you can replace and minimize chance of oil leaks, carb-related leaks when you do the reassemble.
#6
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98hotrodfatboy (12-28-2018)
#7
Cylinders on either Shovel or EVO, must be Last, and After Heads are off...
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98hotrodfatboy (12-28-2018)
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#8
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Pull carb and intake manifold (replace intake seals and intake manifold gaskets and maybe carb block).
Remove upper motor mount.
Remove pushrods (replace seals). Remove lifter blocks (replace lifter block gaskets). When removing be careful not to let lifters fall into the case. And you want to make sure your lifters are kept in the proper lifter block (take a look at them; if you are running hydraulic units you will see oil holes in the lifters; on reassembly they face each other - inward). Note that the front exhaust pushrod is the longest of the four. On my 75 FXE the rear intake was slightly shorter than the other remaining two. On my 78 FXE and my 84 FLH the three remaining were all the same length.
The are oil lines between the heads and from the rear head to the right case. Good time to loosen these (the rubber seals under the nuts will need replacing too).
Cylinder head bolts are next. A set of offset socket wrenches and a set of offset socket extensions will really be helpful in removing the bolts because the turn radius is limited (new cylinder gaskets are required). With the bolts out the heads will come off. Be sure you have the motor rotated so that the pistons are below the cylinders (front and rear will have to be rotated accordingly). There is a small lip on the cylinders. Slight lift up and remove each. Cylinder head and rocker box are removed as a unit.
Next step is to remove cylinder heads from rocker boxes. Bunch of nuts is all. That and a hard rubber mallet to loosen the gasket holding the head and rocker boxes (need new gaskets here).
Diassemble rocker arms from each rocker box (need new metal washer on one end and rubber one on the other). Mark rocker arms and shafts (keep each together - do not mix) so you know which one came from which rocker box and wether it is intake or exhaust.
Couple of closing thoughts. While you are having head work done (valves, seals and guides) mic out your blocks and lifters for wear. I’m not near my manual so I can’t give you acceptable clearances but the info is there. But if not within accepatable limits, invest in new oversized lifters and have blocked honed out accordingly. Worn lifters can contribute a lot to excessive lower end noise.
If I have missed a step here I am sure others will fill in the blanks for you/me. Biggest thing is to take your time. Take pics if you think it will help. Tag and mark everything. Use boxes to keep things sorted out. Nothing worse than a large piles of parts that you can’t recall went where or intermixed parts that you end up guessing went in what position.
Keep us posted with your progress.
Remove upper motor mount.
Remove pushrods (replace seals). Remove lifter blocks (replace lifter block gaskets). When removing be careful not to let lifters fall into the case. And you want to make sure your lifters are kept in the proper lifter block (take a look at them; if you are running hydraulic units you will see oil holes in the lifters; on reassembly they face each other - inward). Note that the front exhaust pushrod is the longest of the four. On my 75 FXE the rear intake was slightly shorter than the other remaining two. On my 78 FXE and my 84 FLH the three remaining were all the same length.
The are oil lines between the heads and from the rear head to the right case. Good time to loosen these (the rubber seals under the nuts will need replacing too).
Cylinder head bolts are next. A set of offset socket wrenches and a set of offset socket extensions will really be helpful in removing the bolts because the turn radius is limited (new cylinder gaskets are required). With the bolts out the heads will come off. Be sure you have the motor rotated so that the pistons are below the cylinders (front and rear will have to be rotated accordingly). There is a small lip on the cylinders. Slight lift up and remove each. Cylinder head and rocker box are removed as a unit.
Next step is to remove cylinder heads from rocker boxes. Bunch of nuts is all. That and a hard rubber mallet to loosen the gasket holding the head and rocker boxes (need new gaskets here).
Diassemble rocker arms from each rocker box (need new metal washer on one end and rubber one on the other). Mark rocker arms and shafts (keep each together - do not mix) so you know which one came from which rocker box and wether it is intake or exhaust.
Couple of closing thoughts. While you are having head work done (valves, seals and guides) mic out your blocks and lifters for wear. I’m not near my manual so I can’t give you acceptable clearances but the info is there. But if not within accepatable limits, invest in new oversized lifters and have blocked honed out accordingly. Worn lifters can contribute a lot to excessive lower end noise.
If I have missed a step here I am sure others will fill in the blanks for you/me. Biggest thing is to take your time. Take pics if you think it will help. Tag and mark everything. Use boxes to keep things sorted out. Nothing worse than a large piles of parts that you can’t recall went where or intermixed parts that you end up guessing went in what position.
Keep us posted with your progress.
#9